I know that there plenty of us who like the appeal of a simple 1x_ drive train. That being said, would you even consider buying a new complete bike that came with a triple to just turn around and convert it?

I just called one of the LBSs in my area and posed the question of how difficult/costly such an endeavor would be, and they were clueless.

Most likely it's not worth it. What would you gain? If you were building a bike from scratch then yeah, perhaps, but not to convert existing one. You'd need a chain guide too so it won't be as clean looking as you might think.

Wow - I'd say to avoid that LBS if they can't answer that.
Although I'm more of an IGH guy, the 1x conventional drivetrain has alot of appeal to me. That said, my $.02 would be to go the IGH route.

To convert to a 1x the process is pretty straightforward, and you may even be able to use the crank that came on the bike (remove the chainrings and use the desired size where the middle ring mounts) - spacers may be necessary depending on the chain line. Chain line would be the main issue, and several companies manufacture "chain keepers" that prevent the chain from coming off of the chainring when at the extremes.

Many bike shops will do swaps for you, so you might work a deal with a SS crankset in lieu of the one that is specc'ed for the bike. Depending on the model, they may give you a partial credit for the value of the original crank/shifter/derailluer, or they may simply give you the crank (to use or sell) and you'll essentially be buying the bike + new crank/chain keeper. some shops are more flexible than others.

If it were me, I'd just buy the bike, buy the single chainring stuff and do the swap myself, then sell the other stuff on craigslist or Ebay.

Regardless, the conversion will cost some money. I would guess the parts would be anywhere between $50-75 for a basic chainring/keeper/spacer setup, to $150 or so for a modest SS crank/keeper.

I'm sure that folks who have actually used these setups can give you much better guidance, but I'd say go for it.

Once upon a time I converted my 3x8 into a 1x9.
It worked and I liked it but I don't think I'd buy a 3x9 bike just to turn it into a 1x9 bike.

Might as well just build up a 1x9.
YMMV

I like the idea from a simplicity standpoint -- with the right chainring, you can get an acceptable gear range from most non-racing cassettes/freewheels. (For instance, I wouldn't mind making a 1x5 out of an old 10-speed someday -- with a 42T chainring, a 14-28T freewheel, and 700x28 tires, that's 40-80 gear inches.)

I've heard that chain drop can be a problem, so you have to factor in what device(s) you'll use to keep that from happening.

As for the cranks... do you plan to replace the crankset, or just use the middle ring from the triple? If your chainline is good, then I'd honestly go with that. Otherwise, you may need to replace the bottom bracket (changing the spindle length) to space your chainring just right in the middle of the cassette.

- Scott

Sure, it might be worth it if the original (triple) drivetrain if of high enough quality to resell on eBay. If the parts are good quality and in decent condition, you might make enough money on eBay to pay for the conversion. I tried a 1x9 on one of my bikes but found that it was actually more trouble to ride than my doubles. The reason is that there are a lot of hills where I ride, and I often switch between the big and small ring without having to shift cogs. With the 1x9, I was having to shift up and down through a lot of gears when going from a big downhill to an uphill, rather than just shifting the front derailleur.

I agree with Nobodyetal - just build up a 1x frame and get exactly what you want.

+1 to this, if you really don't want an IGH

If I had the tools, skills, knowledge, and patience to do so, I would. However, I lack three of those qualities.

Basically, I was wanting to take a Giant Escape and convert it; Giant does have a 1x8 in the Via 2, but I prefer the riding position of the Escape better.

Can't you just pull the crank, put a chain guard on in place of the big ring, pull the small ring and use the FD as a chain catcher. Then pull the front shifter and cable to the FD (just set the limit screws) and you'd be good to go for the cost of a chainguard? Am I missing something vital here (besides you not wanting to look like you'd kludged it together - something I don't care about)?

Take a look at this thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...ng-Frame-Build

I knew next to nothing when I started, just basic derailer adjustments. I bought only the tools I absolutely needed and used what I had. Putting a bike together is not that difficult if you take your time.

Not possible on my current rig- the chain rings are riveted. Unsure about the Giants that I got my eye on, but do know Brodie claims that their chain rings can be swapped out individually. I suspect, though, that most of the bikes in the price point I have to shop will have riveted rings

I recently did exactly what you're asking about. I bought a 3x9 on Craigslist, but never used the middle or granny gear. The front derailleur was preventing me from installing a rear fender without cutting it. I took my bike to the LBS (Harris Cyclery in Newton MA). Cost about $60, with labor. The only parts it needed were a JumpStop and a singlespeed bolt set. I'll sell the shifter, front derailleur and rings on eBay.
My commute has only modest hills, so the 1x9 setup is working well for me!

By the way, another LBS gave me a quote of $400 to convert a singlespeed to a 1x9 with good compenents.

It looks like the chainrings on the Escape are removeable, but I don't know that you'd get any benefit from converting it. You save a miniscule amount of weight. One could argue in favor of simplicity, but I'm not convinced that you don't get the same simplicity by just not shifting the front. You can definitely adjust the front derailleur so it doesn't get in the way if that's all you care about, and the big chain ring then serves the same purpose as a chainguard.

I think this is one of those cases where 1x9 is sufficient but not necessary.

yeah, I couldn't tell from the picture on the giant website, but I'd expect them to be riveted on. Maybe not. Guess you'd have to look and see. The LBS I've been going to charges $50/hour for the mechanics' time, but I'd have to imagine that'd be less than half an hour. I'd bet Nel's costs wouldn't be too out of line. Or you could do what I mentioned yourself for the cost of maybe some cable cutters and a couple of allen wrenches if you do get a crank that's modifiable. Sure it'll cost a lot more to get a new crankset (and possibly a new bb) to do it right, but you can do it fast and easy for pretty inexpensive.

Just called the LBS that I normally deal with (not the one from the OP), and they claim the rings on the Escape are riveted. But they just eyeballed the Escape 2 they have on the floor- it's possible that as you go up the model line and the specs improve, then the riveting stops.

The Escape 2 has an unnamed SR Suntour crank, probably riveted. The Escape 1 has a Shimano M361, definitely not riveted.

I just finished doing this, except I started from scratch except for a wheel I had with an 11-28 cassette. I just used the bb size recommended with the single-speed crank, although I was concerned that it would be too narrow putting the chain at an angle with the 11 tooth cog. But eyeballing it the chain is straight on the middle cogs and not seriously slanted to the extremes. I haven't put any kind of guide or limiter on the chain at the crank ring.

So far so good though I've only got a couple of commutes and haven't hammered it at all. I don't think there's going to be a problem. Maybe extra wear on the chain. I don't see why you couldn't use one or two chainring spacers, taking two rings off, arranged to get the chain line you want.

That is good info to know.

thats a very good point. Often on small rollers, I'll shift the FD going up and then again going down - 1 shift each way. On a 1x9 I would be doing a lot more clicking.

+1 Also, 1x8 and/or 1x7. Use a Sugino 103mm square taper track bb and 10 3/8" 'star' washers from any hardware store. 2 on each chainring bolt to take up the slack of the missing chainring on the driveside crank. Or bite the bullet and get a 100.00USD set of matching Sugino cranks w/a 48t chainring. It's the set-up I have on my fg, but I've used a 48t Rocket Ring(now they're called Origin8...I think)on the 3 1x's I've built up. Presently, I use my loaded multi-geared commuter as a 1x9, but the small chainring is still attached...I just never use it.

Old school road bikes lend themselves really well to this type of conversion as do 90s mtbs. I've done both.

To combat 'chaindrop' get a Paul chainkeeper or use an old front der.

I got to try out a Via 2 and a Via 3 (the single speed version) at an LBS in my area. They are great riding bikes with nice chromoly frames, though they do have rather upright riding positions. I just wish they would've had the 3 speed Via 1 in stock in my size.

My LBS has a Via 1 on the floor. If it's still there the next time I go in, I'll look and/or ask if the stem could be swapped out to get a bit more of an aggressive (like the Escape- not the Rapid) posture. If so, then that just might be the way to go, as the Via 2 has a 1x8.

I recently started using my big chain ring more as I've realized how useful and fun it can be to switch from 36/15 to 48/15. I use to use my rear dérailleur almost exclusively for shifting but switching between the middle and big chain things is just a great option to play with. I understand some people like 'simple' drive trains but my commuter/touring bike will always be a 3x9.

You might be able to just do it by subtraction: remove the granny ring and replace the outer ring with a bashguard or something. Snip your front derailleur cable and lock it in place using the limit screw.

Of course, you could just not shift in the front if you wanted the same effect, =)