Questions about commuting bikes
#1
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Questions about commuting bikes
Hi all,
I'm thinking about purchasing a bike to go commuting back and forth from work a couple times a week and maybe quick grocery run here and there. I live about 4 miles from work and most of the road to work will be slightly steep uphill climbs and coming back will be mostly downhill climbs. I will probably bring a change of clothes and some work items along (which includes a large heavy laptop). I'm thinking about getting a road bike and add fenders, a rack, and a small rear basket. I've been looking around 300 dollar bikes at BD, but I'm not sure what to look for in the specs. I'm also unsure whether or not a road bike can handle the extra weight I plan on putting on it. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look for?
Thanks in advance
I'm thinking about purchasing a bike to go commuting back and forth from work a couple times a week and maybe quick grocery run here and there. I live about 4 miles from work and most of the road to work will be slightly steep uphill climbs and coming back will be mostly downhill climbs. I will probably bring a change of clothes and some work items along (which includes a large heavy laptop). I'm thinking about getting a road bike and add fenders, a rack, and a small rear basket. I've been looking around 300 dollar bikes at BD, but I'm not sure what to look for in the specs. I'm also unsure whether or not a road bike can handle the extra weight I plan on putting on it. Do you have any suggestions on what I should look for?
Thanks in advance
#2
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
To Bike Forums, MrSeabass!We will try to answer all of you cycling related questions to the best of our abilities.
Before you research Bikesdirect, we need to know the upper limit of your budget. Going uphill with a heavy laptop is going to require a budget of more than $300, if you'd like to purchase new.
OTOH, if you're patient, you should have no problem finding a suitable bicycle that can accomodate a strong rack for portables, off of your local Craigslist.
So, is it possible to squeeze more cash out for your new bicycle?
- Slim
Last edited by SlimRider; 03-18-12 at 03:59 AM.
#3
Also factor in the price of a proper backpack or pannier to protect your laptop. And a plug for my humble commuter blog. I wrote there about different kinds of bikes, how to prepare for your commute, how to keep safe on the road, etc. A few people found that helpful, perhaps you will too.
#4
Yeah, road bikes work fine if you prefer a nimble ride. I personally hate road bikes for the most part, because I hate thin tires and prefer the ability to run fatties and fenders, racks if I choose. That said, most people I see commuting in the DC area are on road bikes....go figure
.
Many bikes can be great commuters -- just get some good tires, learn to change a flat, and find a good saddle.
For a 4 mile commute you're a good candidate for a messenger bag, since sweat won't be profuse and comfort will likely be good. I commute only 6 miles (12 round trip) to work now, but with my old job it was more than 2X that. For the short commute I use a XL timbuk2 messenger bag that I really like. For the old commute I had front and rear racks and panniers -- which worked very well. I'm happy with either really. I just like to ride my bike
.
I've found a really good way to secure a timbuk2 bag instead of using the cross (stabilizer) strap -- if anyone is curious, let me know.
. Many bikes can be great commuters -- just get some good tires, learn to change a flat, and find a good saddle.
For a 4 mile commute you're a good candidate for a messenger bag, since sweat won't be profuse and comfort will likely be good. I commute only 6 miles (12 round trip) to work now, but with my old job it was more than 2X that. For the short commute I use a XL timbuk2 messenger bag that I really like. For the old commute I had front and rear racks and panniers -- which worked very well. I'm happy with either really. I just like to ride my bike
. I've found a really good way to secure a timbuk2 bag instead of using the cross (stabilizer) strap -- if anyone is curious, let me know.
#5
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Thanks for answers guys. I also forgot to mention that I live the Pacific Northwest and it rains pretty often here, so the fender is a must here.
"So, is it possible to squeeze more cash out for your new bicycle?"
I can. I went looking for the 300 since it seems like the cheapest price for a road bike. What price do you think I will be looking at?
"Also factor in the price of a proper backpack or pannier to protect your laptop. And a plug for my humble commuter blog. I wrote there about different kinds of bikes, how to prepare for your commute, how to keep safe on the road, etc. A few people found that helpful, perhaps you will too. "
Thanks for the info. I'll probably look into getting a pannier.
"For a 4 mile commute you're a good candidate for a messenger bag, since sweat won't be profuse and comfort will likely be good."
I've done a test run on an old used road bike and I sweat a lot from it since it was mostly an uphill climb to work.
"So, is it possible to squeeze more cash out for your new bicycle?"
I can. I went looking for the 300 since it seems like the cheapest price for a road bike. What price do you think I will be looking at?
"Also factor in the price of a proper backpack or pannier to protect your laptop. And a plug for my humble commuter blog. I wrote there about different kinds of bikes, how to prepare for your commute, how to keep safe on the road, etc. A few people found that helpful, perhaps you will too. "
Thanks for the info. I'll probably look into getting a pannier.
"For a 4 mile commute you're a good candidate for a messenger bag, since sweat won't be profuse and comfort will likely be good."
I've done a test run on an old used road bike and I sweat a lot from it since it was mostly an uphill climb to work.
#6
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
For a nice brand new hybrid from a LBS that will accomodate both a rack and fenders, the cost will be about $600.
Now there are specials sales being offered by various dealerships, all year 'round. Of course, bikesdirect has great deals all the time. However, the problem lies in the fit being proper when you buy online.
Wait a moment!
I've just located the perfect bike for you. You will find it at the link below:
www.rei.com/product/826110/diamondback-insight-rs-commuter-bike-special-buy
This one costs only $390
Now order this bike immediately while online . This is an excellent deal!
Good Luck!
- Slim
Now there are specials sales being offered by various dealerships, all year 'round. Of course, bikesdirect has great deals all the time. However, the problem lies in the fit being proper when you buy online.
Wait a moment!
I've just located the perfect bike for you. You will find it at the link below:
www.rei.com/product/826110/diamondback-insight-rs-commuter-bike-special-buy
This one costs only $390
Now order this bike immediately while online . This is an excellent deal!
Good Luck!
- Slim
Last edited by SlimRider; 03-18-12 at 10:49 AM.
#8
What brand hubs, shifters, rims, tires, etc.
Also, how "Mechanically Inclined" are you? Any bikes shipped from BD(and maybe REI) will have to be assembled and fine tuned by you.
Since you live on the wet coast you may want to consider something with disc brakes.
There is a big difference in braking in the wet.
You may want to consider something like this, https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...tte_x_disc.htm
#9
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Considering how much I used to have to spend on keeping the wheel straight for the rim brakes to not scratch against the wheel while riding, this may be worthwhile investment. Will that bike be able to handle extra weight?
#10
IME with buying bikes, you should definitely go ahead and spend as much as possible to get the one you want -- which is usually double whatever you are thinking at the beginning...lol.
If you get something you think "kind of" works, you'll end up spending more to upgrade it later, or you'll be disappointed and buy the one you really want in a year or so. Then you have the other one sitting in your garage collecting dust.
Just go for it right from the start -- it's easier. When cared for, your bike can theoretically last a lifetime -- well the frame anyway. Well, steel does anyway. Actually eff it - it'll last a heck of a long time.
If you get something you think "kind of" works, you'll end up spending more to upgrade it later, or you'll be disappointed and buy the one you really want in a year or so. Then you have the other one sitting in your garage collecting dust.
Just go for it right from the start -- it's easier. When cared for, your bike can theoretically last a lifetime -- well the frame anyway. Well, steel does anyway. Actually eff it - it'll last a heck of a long time.
Last edited by TurbineBlade; 03-18-12 at 02:24 PM.
#11
And, also what Turbine Blade said
#12
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From: Binghamton, NY
Bikes: Workcycles FR8, 2016 Jamis Coda Comp, 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker
My suggestion is to get something used that fits. I am partial to the Mid to late 90's rigid mountain bikes. Many can be had for not a lot of money. Swap the tires to some slicks, slap on a rack and fenders, and you should be good to go. If you do decide for something better in the future then at least you have a backup bike that you didn't spend a lot of money on.
#13
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From: Southern CaliFORNIA.
Bikes: KHS Alite 500, Trek 7.2 FX , Masi Partenza, Masi Fixed Special, Masi Cran Criterium
$0.02
Non-suspension MTB from CL for about $200ish, and a good Jansport or equivalent backpack will hold a days worth of work clothes, lunch and a laptop. Don't attack bad weather until you know your routes and area really well. For some, bad weather is a challenge to be met. I'm not too proud to drive on those days. It's up to you.
Non-suspension MTB from CL for about $200ish, and a good Jansport or equivalent backpack will hold a days worth of work clothes, lunch and a laptop. Don't attack bad weather until you know your routes and area really well. For some, bad weather is a challenge to be met. I'm not too proud to drive on those days. It's up to you.
#15
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From: Northern California
Bikes: Raleigh Grand Prix, Giant Innova, Nishiki Sebring, Trek 7.5FX
Also, if something should go south with your bikesdirect bike next month, you'll have to return the bike and pray for the best results. Bikesdirect is intangibly located in outer space somewhere and you'll need the blessings of Yahweh for complete 100%satisfaction. Of course, they will have the ball in their court, because you've already paid them in full, and they will render their final decision according to their own system of justice. Most customers of theirs are satisfied, but some are not.
If you decided not to purchase online, then I would suggest that you test-ride a Jamis Coda Sport hybrid at your nearest Jamis dealership. ~ $560
- Slim
Last edited by SlimRider; 03-19-12 at 10:20 AM.
#16
Steel is real, baby!
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Boise, ID
Bikes: 1984 Pinarello, 1986 Bianchi Portofino, 1988 Bianchi Trofeo, 1989 Specialized Allez, 1989 Specialized Hard Rock, 2001 Litespeed Tuscany
Make sure whatever bike you decide on has eyelets for rack & fenders.
I always recommend the Topeak MTX system of racks and trunk bags, because they are relatively inexpensive and readily available and because they are SO COOL. I'm a big fan of not using backpacks or messemger bags and getting the load off you YOU, and onto the bike. So a trunk bag for your change of clothes/lunch/work stuff & a pannier for the laptop would be a very nice setup, IMO.
#17
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
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It's the 'Ing' thing, touring , commuting is as much activity as a thing..
Personal choices are up to the individual... want 700c wheels ,
wider 32+ tires ad wheels, on a Cross bike ,
Road race bike for a fast commute pace Go for it.
I'm using my 406-47 tire 20" wheel Bike Friday Pocket Llama for my daily ride,
disc brakes , hub dynamo lights , rear IGH drivetrain, and front pannier racks .
If the Bikes Direct purchase is over your head mechanically when you try to put it together
and adjust everything , paying the LBS a few Bucks, will cure that .
just cannot do a test-ride on those before paying for it.
Personal choices are up to the individual... want 700c wheels ,
wider 32+ tires ad wheels, on a Cross bike ,
Road race bike for a fast commute pace Go for it.
I'm using my 406-47 tire 20" wheel Bike Friday Pocket Llama for my daily ride,
disc brakes , hub dynamo lights , rear IGH drivetrain, and front pannier racks .
If the Bikes Direct purchase is over your head mechanically when you try to put it together
and adjust everything , paying the LBS a few Bucks, will cure that .
just cannot do a test-ride on those before paying for it.
#18
+1
Make sure whatever bike you decide on has eyelets for rack & fenders.
I always recommend the Topeak MTX system of racks and trunk bags, because they are relatively inexpensive and readily available and because they are SO COOL. I'm a big fan of not using backpacks or messemger bags and getting the load off you YOU, and onto the bike. So a trunk bag for your change of clothes/lunch/work stuff & a pannier for the laptop would be a very nice setup, IMO.
Make sure whatever bike you decide on has eyelets for rack & fenders.
I always recommend the Topeak MTX system of racks and trunk bags, because they are relatively inexpensive and readily available and because they are SO COOL. I'm a big fan of not using backpacks or messemger bags and getting the load off you YOU, and onto the bike. So a trunk bag for your change of clothes/lunch/work stuff & a pannier for the laptop would be a very nice setup, IMO.
#19
A roadbike will probably hold the extra weight just fine. For specs, be really sure that you have the eyelets for rack and fenders that you need. You should also be considering what conditions you will be commuting in (rain? snow?) and whether skinny road bike tires will be up to the task or not. Also, adding weight may make the ride a little rougher, which would be another reason to consider a bike that can fit fatter tires, especially if you're going to hit any rough terrain on your commute.
Make certain that the fit is right. You can buy new components later, but you can't change the geometry of the frame (or at least it's not practical).
$300 isn't going to buy a lot if you're only looking at new bikes. I'd do some research on what components and features you think you'll need the most and spend a lot of time bargain hunting. Settling for used will probably get you a lot more if you are careful about what you buy.
Make certain that the fit is right. You can buy new components later, but you can't change the geometry of the frame (or at least it's not practical).
$300 isn't going to buy a lot if you're only looking at new bikes. I'd do some research on what components and features you think you'll need the most and spend a lot of time bargain hunting. Settling for used will probably get you a lot more if you are careful about what you buy.
#20
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: 1997 Schwinn Searcher GS, 2007 Dahon Curve D3
I think I would go for a touring bike, in your situation. Not as light as a road bike, but it will have the attachment points for the fenders and rack, have a more comfortable riding position, and will also have lower gearing to make the hills easier and less sweaty to climb. Just take your time and climb up to work at 5 mph or less, if you have to, to stay dry. Just need the gears to make that happen.
Also, consider a recumbent. They're more comfortable, and offer more torque for easy climbing.
Also, consider a recumbent. They're more comfortable, and offer more torque for easy climbing.
#21
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I ended up getting the motobecane bike that was posted on here yesterday night. It had everything I was looking for and I heard from a few people that the parts are pretty good for the price. I've worked with bikes in the past just that most of the bikes I worked with were cheap department store toy bikes that I ended up throwing away after a year of use, so this shouldn't be too bad. I just need to find the tools and maybe some instructions on parts I haven't work with before.





