Metal Bike Pedals
#1
Metal Bike Pedals
I guess this is the best forum to post this in, since I have a commuter bike.
I have a specialized expedition, standard. I want to install metal pedals instead of the plastic ones that came with it.
I found some that I think looks good https://www.amazon.com/VP-Beartrap-Ty...ef=pd_sbs_sg_1
Will those fit correctly on that bike? Also I welcome any other advice or recommendations that you have about pedals.
Thanks
I have a specialized expedition, standard. I want to install metal pedals instead of the plastic ones that came with it.
I found some that I think looks good https://www.amazon.com/VP-Beartrap-Ty...ef=pd_sbs_sg_1
Will those fit correctly on that bike? Also I welcome any other advice or recommendations that you have about pedals.
Thanks
#2
Non sibi sed patriae
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 633
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From: North Ridgeville, OH
Bikes: 2012 Surly Ogre (Shrek), 1985 Raleigh Kodiak, 1995 Specialized Hard Rock, 2009 Citizen Miami
I just started using these, I like them and the pins are removable/ replaceable. https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...4#ht_699wt_931
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#3
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,060
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From: Springfield, MA
Bikes: 2012 Motobecane Fantom CXX, 2012 Motobecane Fantom CX, 1997 Bianchi Nyala, 200? Burley Rock 'n Roll
Yes, nearly all decent bikes take 9/16-inch pedals. It might be worth looking at higher-end pedals. A lot of the lower-end ones don't have adequate seals for the bearings on the shaft end. (I'm not familiar with these particular ones). That means that those bearings are likely to go bad much more quickly than a better pedal, unless your riding doesn't involve dirty or wet conditions. On the other hand, these are cheap enough to be disposable. Or you could learn how to replace the bearings and do that occasionally.
#4
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
9/16x20tpi is a very common size .
the ones you linked to via a book selling place, are cheapened copies
of a pedal from the 80's..
This winter I got a set of Ergon pedals , though using plastics ,
they are not cheap
because the plastics were chosen for their engineered characteristics,
not cheapness .
Welgo is a decent pedal company, MKS a bit better.
the ones you linked to via a book selling place, are cheapened copies
of a pedal from the 80's..
This winter I got a set of Ergon pedals , though using plastics ,
they are not cheap
because the plastics were chosen for their engineered characteristics,
not cheapness .
Welgo is a decent pedal company, MKS a bit better.
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 794
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From: Chicagoland
Bikes: 1997 Schwinn Searcher GS, 2007 Dahon Curve D3
It is not so much the pedal frame material that matters, but the bearings. They should have sealed bearings and should be smoothly-rotating. Not the kind where you feel a bit of notchy friction when rotating them.
Plan on spending at least $50 for a good set of pedals. You'll thank yourself later. It's a shame to get a nice bike, then throw away a bunch of energy on pedal friction.
For this purchase, I would go to a bike shop and try them by hand. You'll see what I mean.
Plan on spending at least $50 for a good set of pedals. You'll thank yourself later. It's a shame to get a nice bike, then throw away a bunch of energy on pedal friction.
For this purchase, I would go to a bike shop and try them by hand. You'll see what I mean.
#8
If you're looking at metal pedals, I will go ahead and recommend MKS pedals. The Touring or Touring Lite models are pretty grippy, and have excellent bearings and seals, plus, they are rebuildable using standard ball bearings and tools. Otherwise, if you want to go more BMX style, Primo and Eastern pedals are excellent, and many of the models are rebuildable and have replaceable pins.
You can pick up any of the above for $25-40.
You can pick up any of the above for $25-40.
#9
Senior Member

Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 12,948
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From: England
I use MKS Sylvian touring on my commuter and touring bikes. They are easy to service and last for years. You can add toe clips if you like.
When you attach pedals, smear some grease on the threads, back thread the pedal till the threads click into alignment to avoid a crossed thread and tighten firmly enough but no need to strain yourself. The non-driveside has a reverse thread (to avoid self-loosening during use).
When you attach pedals, smear some grease on the threads, back thread the pedal till the threads click into alignment to avoid a crossed thread and tighten firmly enough but no need to strain yourself. The non-driveside has a reverse thread (to avoid self-loosening during use).
#11
On installing pedals, start threading by hand. If the first few threads don't start easily, (grease the threads as a previous poster said) then chances are you're installing them on the wrong sides. R = Drive Side and L = Non Drive Side
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