Wheel size debate aside, which class from the mtb world would you pick to commute on grass, gravel, concrete, and asphalt? Gravity/downhill? XC? One of the other "labels" that I'm not sure of??

I want disc brakes and I'm willing to pay the weight penalty to get them. Also, I'm hoping a mtb will have a bit sturdier of a wheelset (even the entry level ones should, right?) than what I'm currently running- I think my rear wheel is trying to go out of true again , and I've only it back from the shop about 2 weeks...

I would point you at the Cannondale Bad Boy line. In particular, I would look at the bad boy 9. No, I do not have one (yet) however, I see it has having plenty of features that I would look for on a commuter bike.

Wide, but street oriented tires
Flat bar (debatable)
disc brakes (depends on where you live)
no suspension to rob power
mounting points for fenders and a rack
cuff protection disc on the chain-rings (a chain-guard would be better; but they are rare on bikes with standard gear sets)
plenty of gears

There are plenty of similar bikes

The Bad Boy is a pretty nice hybrid- with the price to match.

Main reason for even considering a mtb is the fact that an entry level model with discs are roughly $150 or more less than a hybrid with discs. And my logic might be flawed, but mtbs should have beefier wheels that equate into them not going out of true as much.

The rear wheel on my bike is making the same racket that it did before when I broke a spoke (checked this time and didn't find any) and will only get worse the more I ride it. Dunno, maybe the wrenches at my primary LBS aren't as good as I thought or maybe since I have had to have the rear trued twice already, maybe it's time for a new wheel.

However, the frame is a tad too big for me (but doable), and I suffer heel strike. If I thought even for a second that the shop I got it from would allow me to trade, I'd strongly consider it and walk until I could pay off the balance owed on any new bike.

But enough about the drama that is my life story- what about the whole purpose of the thread, you know "how to pick a mtb for commuting duty"?

On a side note, there is a new LBS opening about 20 miles away. And they'll be carrying a brand that one person here pimps as much as pcad does Apple. The ones who have been around should be able to figure that out

One thing I look for in my commuters is a full rigid suspension. I've messed a little with suspended forks, seatposts, etc and keep going back to rigid as there really isn't much advantage to the suspension and it just seems to rob the power that would otherwise propel the bike forward.

What's your budget?

If you are vigilant on Craigslist, you can get some pretty good deals.

I picked this up a couple years back for $300...

Fuji Tahoe SL with Sram x9/Avid discs and lockable front suspension. As labrat mentioned, you may want to get a rigid fork, though.

Okay, granted that suspension forks add weight, increase maintenance costs, and rob power. However, it's a 2.4 mile commute over varied terrain. Disc brakes, wide tire clearance, and (hopefully) stronger wheels are the features I want. I'm willing to pay the weight and performance penalties.

Using Trek as an example, a 3500 mtb w/discs lists for $479.99, their cheapest hybrid w/discs is the PDX which lists for $639.99.

If it weren't for my strong desire for disc brakes and a stronger wheelset, I might pick up this frame and use mine as a donor.

You think discs are maintenance free? Disc users I know are always moaning about their brakes. I commute on a decade old hardtail MTB, it is bombproof and fun to ride with the correct tires...virtually maintenance free. V brakes.

Glad to hear it. Truth be told, if I could find a 3spd IGH w/coaster brake, and bombproof wheels, I'd be good. But since Kona stopped making the Worldbike/Bike, I have to make compromises.

Decent frame with strong, tough wheels are what I'm after. Parts hung off of the frame doesn't really matter.

I guess I have a 'collection' of the Trek 6500-8500 MTBs of the late '90s-2000, AL. One was bought as a donor, the rest get ridden. The wheelsets on all of them are original, they will probably outlast me. My 8000SL is dedicated XC bike and still honking with a modern 2x9 drivetrain and XT components, the rest are all asphalt riders, tour or commute. I couldn't imagine trading any of them for a modern hybrid. It's amazing what you can put together for $400 and as much in upgrades if you shop around for deals, eBay. Even a new carbon rigid fork can be had for $150 these days.

so how much is a set of stronger rims and wet weather brake pads for your current bike? for a 2.4 mile commute, unless you are riding muddy rocky downhill style singletrack in the rain, i would think twice about the suspension fork and disk brakes.

I got no idea on the rims or wheels (wheel building isn't currently one of my skills), but the pads would probably be some Kool Stops, but unsure whether to go with black or salmon...

What about Marin Muirwoods 29er? That's basically a mountain bike with a rigid fork and disc brakes.

If you can find a 2010/11 Marin Point Reyes 29er, that has better wheels, but they're no longer made. Don't trust the Bikeradar review too much on that bike though because for some reason they have a different fork on theirs.

My Dahon Cadenza has Alfine hub gears, Shimano mech disc brakes and Big Apple 26x1.9 tyres. I ride tracks and trails on the aluminium rigid fork. It is similar to the Bad Boy but with a better eccentric bottom bracket and a folding frame.
I think the MTB world has become too stratified with lots of different classes. What you need is a "mountain bike". UK brand Orange still make their P7 which is really versatile for this kind of mixed use. Cross country would be the best current style except they lack rack eyelets, so you will have to go for entry level "trial bikes".

Yes! I'm the most devout lover of Jamis! Guilty as charged and proud of it, too!

Ok! So there's a beloved Jamis LBS opening up, eh!

PS.

Bet they'd love to have you work for 'em...

By this time next year, we'll both be singing Jamis in harmony!

That's a nice frame! I'd go with that frame and rely on ebay or other sources for wheels, later.

You can always find good wheels anytime, it's the right frame that's hard to find! That would be great for both your grass/gravel/concrete/asphalt commutes and your xc treks, as well!

I say go with it, my friend!

Make sure it's the right size, though!

I'd sand that frame and rust proof it with JP Weigle's frame saver. Then I'd paint it a matte black. I'd switch over all salvageable and adaptable parts. I'd then get some decent derailleurs and wheels__Done!

I dunno, on second thought, that frame might not look that bad! I think I might just sand it in spots and touch it up a bit. It depends...I can't really see it that well from the photo. One thing for sure, though...It's a keeper! Once you get that Tassajara fixed right, she'll be rendering you service for the rest of your days. If you want, you could make her look real pretty, too!

Meanwhile, I'd just ride the last roll out of that old puppy 'til I was set to switch over. Since it's too big anyways, there's no need trying to fix it, other than using temporary means.

Good Luck!

PS.

I think disc brakes aren't all what they're cracked up, to be! Cantis and V's have always worked for me...Besides, V's are just too easy to adjust and replace. They're cheaper, too! Canti's are somehow more reassuring, though!

After disassembling the bike, I'd take those wheels to an expert for closer inspection. There should be some youtube videos on wheel inspection and repair.

I agree for the most part, but one of my commuter MTBs has a suspension fork with lock out and I find it handy when I decide to do some off-roading on the way home. The weight penalty is minimal and is more than offset by the advantages of the suspension. That said, I tend to ride my full rigid more often when I know that I am going to ride solely on the road.


Several of my bikes have discs and none of them are more of problematic than V-brakes, but the discs definitely work better than V-brakes, especially in the rain. There is a bit of a weight penalty but again it is offset by the better braking.

Essentially, how you outfit your commuter depends on how you intend to use it. Any advantage that specific parts will give you are entirely based on that alone.

+1

Though my Hard Rock is more like 23 years old. With a fresh set of pads, I can definitely stop so fast as to throw myself over the handlebars.

What I would look for is attachment points for a rack. As long as you can attach a rack, you can commute on it. Well, you can also go at it with a backpack, but I wouldn't recommend it.

The cost of new wheels depends, largely, on what you use to build them. If you use higher end Shimano hubs, a quality Velocity or Mavic rim and good spokes, a build will cost you around $100 per wheel.

Be aware that 'quality' doesn't mean 'heavy'. A heavier rim is just heavier, it's not really stronger. I use Mavic XC717 rims on my mountain bikes which some of the lightest rims that Mavic makes. I jump them, I pound them, I beat them on rocks.

And 'good' spokes aren't just any old spokes that the shop happens to have in stock. If you want the strongest wheels possible, use DT Alpine III or Wheelsmith DH13. These are spokes for tandems and heavily loaded touring bikes. The spokes are more expensive but they are also stronger and more durable. I had a DT Alpine III spoked wheel that lasted up to over 10 years of hard off-road riding. I don't use anything else to build wheels with now.

I'd suggest Kool Stop Dual compound MTB pads over either black or salmon.

That's a pretty bike, but not one I'd aim for to use as a commuter. The seatpost mounted racks are pretty annoying sometimes -- much better to have a rear rack mounted the standard way. I've never found any problem with a suspension fork for commuting. Other people always tell folks to replace with a rigid fork, but they're not that much of a problem to me.

I like mountain bike for commuting because you can run huge tires and fenders. Usually they have a triple crank with good low gears for pulling a trailer or carrying weight too. Try to find an old rigid steel frame for 80-100 bucks or so with min. rust. That's what I did -- in my case a late 90's Gary Fisher Wahoo. It works great.