Upgrade the engine

They don't look like they'd pack snow/slush, but they also don't look like they'd protect you much. The front fender doesn't have much coverage at all.

I don't find fenders especially useful either - not enough to justify the weight, cost and rattle adjustments. The one thing they're nice for is protecting the paint on the dt from rocks...which isn't relevant with an untainted ti frame.

^^^This. Although, I will add that as you ride more, you will discover what it is you want to upgrade most. If you are anything like the rest of us, this list will likely grow very long in short time, limited only by you budget and/or free time.

Most of these responses are right windchaser, which is a miracle because most of these clowns never get anything right

Ride ride ride the bike and have yourself a blast, then down the road do an upgrade or two if you find it necessary. Treadtread's comment "upgrade the engine" is good. Especially if this was a recent purchase, put some miles on it!

I love my full fenders and I never had any problems with mine.

They do well enough for the kinds of snow we have here in Colorado. Our moisture content tends to run about 10% so even when it melts the snow isn't that sloppy. The front fender does a better job than you think of keeping spray...what little there is of it...off me. And the rear fender does a reasonable job of keeping snow and ice out of the derailer. It's better than nothin' And, trust me, fenders come off as soon as the threat of snow diminishes to near zero...some time in May.

Ride it and enjoy your new bike and get upgrades when you need them

In Seattle fenders are a must, but maybe where the OP is it's not a big deal.

Lights are the other essential commuting accessory. The rest is just details.

Weigh these tires before you put them on your bike. I am not sure if these tires qualify as an "upgrade". Why downgrade to a set of wal-mart tires if you just upgraded from a wal-mart bike. If your goal is be faster on pavement do some research and get a quality tire.

As long as the tires are inflated nice and hard (65 - 85 psi) then they will offer a benefit. The weight of the tires makes very little difference - the construction of the tire and its ability to rebound without absorbing too much energy is the reall difference, and you can't measure that quality with a scale.

only thing i dont like about the tires was they where folding i had no idea they was folding tires.but i have em on my bike now not bad 2 tires and 2 tubes less then 40 bucks shiped .i also have a mars 4.0 light on rear and a decent front light.thats al the upgrades ill do for now

Good decision. If there is something causing a problem (either with functionality or with fit/comfort) then replace it, otherwise ride the bike until the wheels fall off... then reattach the wheels and repeat!

I'd have to disagree. Lowering the rotational weight in your wheels and tires is one of the most noticeable changes you can make to your bike. His stock tires are ~800 g apiece. Switching to a 400 g tire will be a change/upgrade that he can feel. I agree that you can't measure quality with a scale. But a $13 wire bead tire with no details on weight or tpi sends a pretty strong signal of low quality. I only mention this because the thread topic is about worthwhile upgrades.

By the way, I wouldn't run a 700x38c tire anywhere near 85 psi unless you really want the pavement to beat you up.

Or you and the bike together weigh 400 lbs. Probably somewhere in the low 40s is a better balance of comfort and rolling resistance

https://www.bccclub.org/documents/Tireinflation.pdf

Best upgrade suggestion I saw is a stand. Working on a bike is 10x easier and more enjoyable when you have a stand. Don't necessarily go buy one tomorrow, but figure out a price range, and shop around to get the most bang for your $. It does not need to be fancy, just hold the bike in the air and not fall over when you work on it. I would recommend a free standing one, but I actually made one attached to the side of a garage with wood. It was not so much a stand as a place to hang my bike, but I could work on it and pedal it mounted there. A free standing stand is MUCH nicer.

most likely ill order the park 9 stand

that is the one I have, got it for around $90 several years ago, never regretted it.

i hope i can find it for 90 so far i found it for 120 shipped

I got it from either performance or nashbar, it may list for more now then when I bought it also. Mine is 10+ years old.

ebay is your friend here, they were going for $90 and up shipped before Christmas. Be patient and I bet you can get the same or close to that.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Park-Tool-Bi...item43b73a97ea

cool is the stand pretty stable?

Yes, I have never had problems with it falling over. Just keep the bike centered between the two legs and you are good to go. You can rotate your bike in any direction, and the higher the stand/bike get the less stable it will be.

cool are there any other tools i should order?i have no idea what tools work on this bike

Certainly, before you buy tools be sure that they work for your bike. Specific tool recommendations might be better made in the mechanics part of the forum. But in general, tools I use consistently are
a spoke wrench,
hex tools (I think 4, 5 and 6 mm are the most common on my bike),
a small socket set with 4, 5 and 6 mm is sufficient for my bike
possibly a pedal wrench, but you don't likely need this real soon
If you really want to take apart your rear wheel for cleaning, a broken spoke, clean/lube bearings or other reasons, a pair of chain whips is handy
A cassette removal tool, I suspect there are different ones but I bought a shimano one ten years ago and that has worked on every cassette I have ever needed to remove.
cone wrenches are nice, but you need to know what size to buy for your bike, and also need to decide if you will ever take your bearings out, but over the life of your bike I would suspect you would want them a few times.

That basic set will take you along way, at least it has for me. There are other tools I have bought that I have used only once or twice, not sure they were really worth it. If you get on fire with working on bikes you will figure out other stuff you will need and can buy accordingly.

Hope that helps.

PS, if you don't need it today, don't buy it today, but just start looking and asking questions and find deals. OK, the spoke wrench should be real cheap, as well as the basic hex wrenches and sockets

This is a pretty good overview.

Most bikes and components fall within the same range of tools.

Allen wrenches - 4,4.5, 5 and 6 are most common, but I have used all of mine from 2mm-8mm at one time or another on my bikes and accessories.
Screwdrivers: #1 and #2 Phillips, narrow and wide flat blade will get most of your needs met.
Box/open wrenches - 8,9 and 10mm are most common. Pedals are pretty standard at 15mm if they have wrench flats. it is handy to have a 6 through 15.
Good quality cable/housing cutters (like Park or Shimano) - these are essential when you replace your cables. A good pair will run you $30-50.
Metric sockets (mainly 8,9,10) but 4-15 will cover everything that you may encounter.
Chain lube and grease
Citrus degreaser
Rags, brushes

There are other specific tools for various jobs, but these are a good place to start.
If you don't have many tools at the present moment, there are some basic bike mechanic tool sets that might offer a better value than buying tools individually. Nashbar, Park, IceToolz, and others have these in various varieties.

next you should upgrade the handlebars. Replace those flat bars with North Roads. or similar swept back bar.