There are a few things to consider here. First of all, the key points which need to be locked, which are common or easy targets of thievery. Those are the frame, the front wheel, the back wheel, the seat, and the rack if you have one.

The first thing I would lock is the seat and rack (if you have one). Not because that is the most important part to lock, but because that you can permanently lock and never again have to worry about, only needing to unlock it when you need to change seats or something. A short cable lock through the seat mounts, through the rack, and then around the frame is all you need for that. Just one cable lock for both items.

The wheels and frame, is something you will need to lock every time you turn away from the bike. While cables are generally okay for the wheels, it is very important that you have at least a U-bolt or bar lock between the frame and the rack. As a main lock, a cable will be cut almost literally as soon as you turn your back in the city. Your main lock has to be a bolt type.

I have a few preferred methods of doing this. One employs two good locks, using a U-bolt or bar lock running through my back tire and frame (at the swingarm) together at one time, and through the rack. Then I can run a second U-bolt from the front wheel to the frame... a short one on a road bike, or a long one on a mountain bike. Another variant of this method is to run a long cable (with loops on the ends) from the back lock to the front wheel, but such a long cable might be hard to find. One con about this method, is that while it is pretty quick and convenient, it requires a proper bike rack to lock up to.

The other method I like, which is a little more versatile, is to use a U-bolt lock with two cables, each with loops on the end. I run the U-bolt through the frame and rack, and one cable to each wheel, locked back to the U-bolt. The reason I like this method is that I can change my configuration for locking up to extra-large or complex items (like say the trunk of a larger tree for instance). Like I might move the U-bolt to my front wheel and frame, and lock the rest with the cables for more reach (like I did camping this past weekend).

I usually carry the first setup around town for convenience, and the second setup on the road for longer trips when I don't know what I'll encounter. I wish I had pictures to show you what I mean, but maybe one day I'll take some.

I have two kids in college but of whom have a nice bike as their primary means of transportation. We've got a total of 7 years with two kids (three with one, four with the other and now in grad school) in a major metropolitan university where bike theft is very common. You can walk around campus and see carcasses of bikes that have been stripped of parts or locks that have cut cables attached. That said, we have had zero issues and that's with most of the time the bikes being locked outside on bike racks 24/7.

What we did is this:

1. Sheldon Brown locking method.

2. Used Kryptonite locks - the ones with the orange housing, about $60.

3. A second U lock to go from the downtube through the front wheel when locked the rack. This lock is then left at the rack when the bike is used for an errand or trip. You can get keyed alike likes from Kryptonite.

4. Get the PitLocks set that has skewers, seat post and head tube lock. These lock down the components and make your bike that much more of a hassle to steal.

The bikes we've used are basically late 1980's mid range bikes roughly equivalent to a $2500 bike today (Ultegra) with hand built Campy wheels and components. These are very nice bikes that ride very well but they are not current bikes making them less attractive to steal but a lot more fun to ride and a lot more reliable than a "beater" bike.

Using this method, we've had bikes stolen from right along side our bikes. Ours are the worst bikes in the rack to attempt to steal and there will be nothing easy about it for the thief. There's some money invested in security items but then we've never had to invest the time or frustration of a lost bike either and our kids (both are cyclists for training purposes as well) have an excellent and reliable bike.

J.

I use "security allen" bolts rather than actual Pitlocks as they are far cheaper and don't require a key that is as rare, although Thee are slightly less secure as well.

I put a larger cable than those pictured above through my saddle rails, lace it through the rear wheel and up to the U bolt that goes through my front wheel/frame and whatever I'm locking to.

It doesn't matter how cheap your bike is, college campuses are rife with bike theft, so you need a good lock. For a college campus I think a lock rated Sold Secure Gold is best. The Kryptonite New York U-lock is a great choice. It's heavy though, (the same as 5 cans of coke), so make sure you can handle carrying that around with you every day. There are plenty of lighter and cheaper Sold Secure Gold U-locks.

Having said all that, $300 is a cheap bike. The wheels and the seat wont have any resale value, so you probably just need to protect yourself from the little scrotes who are out shopping for themselves. Because of this, I would be more relaxed about protecting my wheels and seat.

There are loads of ways to protect your wheels and seat. But at the very least replace all the quick release skewers (seat post and wheels).

For the seat, I would employ the "old bike chain technique". When combined with replacing the quick release lever, this is enough to deter almost all casual thieves. However it does not require an angle grinder to defeat it as a previous poster has suggested!

For the wheels, simply replacing the quick release skewers with hex based skewers (Nashbar or Halo) might be enough. Or for something slightly more secure, you could try non-standard skewers (Delta Hublox).

Then you just need to carry the one lock round with you.

I suggest this because an essential part of successful bike security is choosing a technique that suits your lifestyle, that doesn't become a pain to use everyday. Carrying around 2 heavy U-locks every day could become a pain. And for a cheap $300 bike you probably don't have to try too hard to stop your wheel and your seat from being stolen!

If you were referring to my post, I was not suggesting that two locks are carried but just to lock it up outside in an unprotected area overnight. One lock is carried when the bike is used. The other lock is left on the rack for when the bike is returned to the rack.

Hex bolts would cause the bike to disappear. Not a big deterrent if any at all.

J.

Hi John,

No, I wasn't referring to your post which is very clear and good advice. I just meant in general, I think carrying around two locks is overkill on a $300 bike. One Sold Secure Gold lock will stop the bike being stolen. And then either hex or non-standard skewers should be enough for the components.

Regarding hex bolts on the components, they are not a big deterrent no. But sometimes they are enough. I have a similarly cheap bike which just has normal nutted wheels. I leave it outside in the street in the same place every night. But I've never had the wheels stolen. This isn't because the place isn't full of thieves. It is. It's because my wheels are essentially worthless and there would be a small amount of effort to take them.

Obviously Pitlocks would be much safer, but they are also much more expensive. I would be tempted to see how I get on just by replacing the quick releases first.

Cheers!

I have a chain on the rear and u-lock on the front, in a locked bike cage in a locked underground parking garage with security cameras. You are going to need to come prepared if you want it.

Hardened security chain + the U lock combined weighing almost what the Bike does is OK , IMO.

The Cable is the weakest part of many schemes , it requires a secure parking garage,

where the Security Guard will stop anyone with a Bolt Cutter in the trouser leg limp, from entering.