I'm out of Frankfurt and am in the process of moving to northern England (near Darlington) and therefore will need an upgraded lighting system as it won't be an entirely urban commute anymore. I would anticipate a commute that would be partially suburban and partially farmland.

Commute will be roughly 25km/15miles each direction (so battery life will be important as will charging time if I can't get roughly 2.5-3h run time).

One thing to keep in mind is that a new front wheel that's disc-compatible with Shimano Hub dynamo runs around €100 shipped.


So, should I:

1. bite the bullet and get a new front wheel with dynamo, LED front light and rear rack with integrated rear light for roughly €200 total

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8...gc=0;orderby=2

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?lang=1;co...;product=12804

https://www.bike24.de/1.php?content=8...1400,1410,1411

or

2. just get something like the Lezyne Power Drive XL for €100 and pick up and extra battery?

https://www.amazon.de/Lezyne-Fahrradl...d_sim_sbs_sg_4

Thoughts are greatly appreciated

Would go with the dynamo setup, as you never have to worry about the battery, the only thing I can suggest from experience, is that having used the B&M IQ, I had one fail as the plastic housing cracked at the bracket mount, have gone onto a Schmidt Edelux, which is all aluminium, and has been perfect since installing, although these do cost a lot more.

For the hub, having used a T785 (XT centerlock/dynamo), which is a slightly higher spec to the one linked to, it works fine.

If you were just doing urban riding, would say that the Lezyne would be fine, but if going out into the countryside, it can get dark very quickly, where there is no street lighting, so the more you have, the better.

I would also recommend a dyno hub set up. It removes all of the anxiety of battery life. I used a Shimano DH-3N72 and liked it very much. I converted to drum brakes and so now use a SA dynohub. Also, I have the B&M IQ headlight and taillight and have found them to be functional and reliable. I have over 5000 miles on them without problem.

Good luc

Thanks for the opinions.

I assume that it would be smart to purchase another disc, tube and tire so that I'd have another complete wheel from a quick change in case of morning flat? Maybe another Hayes disc and Schwalbe tube/tire?

Photo of bicycle in question is attached.

Doing it that way also leaves you without lights--a particular problem if you've decided to go all or nothing into the dynamo setup.

Before I switched to dynamo lights, I had a second set of wheels. Never needed them for that purpose. (I used them for snow vs three-season tires.) Since I switched to dynamos, I don't bother.

In 33,908 miles of cycling over the past seven years, I've had a morning flat once. This past Thursday. Since I never wait for the last minute to leave and I get the bike ready while the coffee's perking, it wasn't an emergency.

Investigate how you'd mount the headlight before purchasing. I don't think the B&M headlights are designed, out of the box, to mount to suspension MTB forks.

Caveat: I've never owned a suspension MTB (or any suspension bike or any MTB for that matter) so my caution may be unfounded.

All good points to think about.

I do have the train which permits cycles as a back-up, which means that I could always get at least one ride in during the day. I really miss being on the bike after months of not commuting.

Thanks.

I have a hub dynamo, wired light set, on a couple bikes , 1_ 26" , 1_ 406 20".

For commuting I like the Jump on it and Go, consistant reliability.

[ without a stand light the dimming at low speed when I used the Halogen
bulb headlight, without stand-light left me in the dark . 'till I got going again.



But you have a Off Road oriented Mountain Bike, doesn't look like its for a commuting App.

. Night time single track?

High Watt external battery light? ... and a helmet light..?


FWIW, I have a suspension fork on my Koga trekking bike ( short travel )

there is a mounting hole in the arch, it's used for the Mudguard mount and the headlight mount.

which is B&M's nylon one ..


..

theres a removable handlebar light with a mid cord plug , wired down to the hub dynamo .

Planet Bike on this side of the pond.. that lets you pocket it
while the bike is parked and the wheels etc are chained up for security..
https://ecom1.planetbike.com/3048.html

you can always use another battery light as well, on the same bike.

looks like "Smart Lunar" is the brand name in UK for the same, planet bike, like, things.

https://www.wiggle.com/smart-lunar-10-lux-front-light/


Other than rebuilding the front wheel around one of Shimano's Dynamo - Disc combination hubs ,

the Danish made Reelight light scheme https://www.reelight.com/ fits a magnet,or 2 or more,
to the spokes and uses induction in the sensor, to make a pulse of electricity,


and at the higher price options has a capacitor to steady the pulses as the magnet passes the sensor.

and runs a wire up to the headlight ..

Hi and many thanks for responding.

Yeah, this was/is an el-cheapo MTB to get back into riding after some time off. The fork doesn't have fender mounting points or a hole in the arch but what can one expect at that price point.

I think I'll do a side mount of a B&M on the outside on the street-side of the fork and see how it goes

Maybe with an NOB or some such related item.

Edit. Maybe a descending handlebar mount is a better idea. We'll see when I get going with it

These offer another place to put a handlebar light mount .. https://www.paulcomp.com/stemcaplightmount.html

The Shimano dyno hub use an easily removable clip, so tube repairs aren't much more complicated or time consuming than they normally would be.

There are handlebar mounts for the B&M lights available, but I would suggest pitlocks for the front wheel and the light bracket and light itself (if using fork crown style mount) since that would allow the lighting system to be securely left on the bike.

I believe you could drill the mtb fork for such a mount if it isn't already.

Having a light always at the ready on the bike makes it so much more convenient for unexpected trips.

Are you planning on a dyno tail light as well?

I noticed in your 1st post that you would also consider a battery powered light.
I have a MagicShine clone that cost US$32(EU20?), comes with a battery pack
good for over 3 hours on high. I'm able to mount it in different places using the
supplied o rings and/or rubber bands; helmet, frame, handlebars, fork.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLeZhBw3cjI

Another vote for the hub dynamo. I discovered somewhat to my surprise that there was a certain amount of hidden stress involved in using battery lights, which I didn't realize was even there until it was no longer there. It's nice to not have to think about whether I have my lights, whether the batteries are charged, whether I should bring extra batteries, etc. You just get on the bike and go, as fietsbob said.

FWIW, I have the Lumotec IQ Cyo R Senso Plus (I think; I'm not actually sure about the "R" or the "Plus").
But it has a standlight, which is very important; it's bright, which is very important, and it has a sensor (that's the faux-Latin "senso" part of the name), which turns out the light automatically when it's dark - although not as important as a standlight, I like this feature quite a lot because I don't have to think to turn my light on, and it comes on automatically when I go under a tunnel.

+1 on that. I would prefer dynamo setup for commuting (where the purpose is just to be seen), but there are multiple advantages with cheap Chinese LED lighting: first it is cheap and easily switched between bikes (I have 3 bikes so this is a plus ), the light is VERY bright, I use high power mode only when descending offroad. Acceptable quality (it took me 5 minutes to make everything rain proof), when battery wears out just get a new one (mine is going strong for 1,5 years). It will take you 10 years of usage to come to a price of switching to a good dynamo hub.

The bad (very bad!) side is that if you forget it out on well below zero, you'll be riding home without it. I've solved this issue by storing additional battery pack in the office, so if one freezes over I have a warm backup. Also beam is very narrow, so you will need lens to convert it (additional 5$).

Also this winter I will move the light from handlebar mount (with rubber o-ring) to a permanent position on the fork. After seeing how good it works I decided to get another one for "sport" use, so this will be dedicated for my commuter.

The unsolvable problem with all this: you need to remember to recharge it. This would be the only reason for spending money on a good powerhub based system.

I have something very similar to this: https://dx.com/p/cree-xm-l-t6-3-mode-...x-18650-114015 it can be found cheaper on ebay.

Dyno hubs and modern led lighting systems are absolutely the way to go for regular commuting. On the other hand, I have not found dyno rear lights are bright or obnoxious enough to stand out from background light clutter in the city. I prefer the Dinotee 300R with integrated lithium battery. Or, a couple of planet bike super flashes.
Jon in Philly

I prefer to use both. The dyno light is always there in case the battery light fails (which I have had happen a lot in the winter). And good bright blinkies are cheap. Of course I have checked and my B&M Top (something) is very visible in my community from over 500 feet away at night even with suburban lighting.

I most want the blinkies shortly after dawn or before sunset when the possibility of the low sun causing issues.

Agreed. I should have also mentioned that my commuter wears a backup B&m TopD? battery powered light affixed to a Tubus rack. I had a much longer reply in mind, but what this thread seems to bear out is that we are all flying by the seat of our pants when it comes to lighting selection. Absent rear and front tech lighting specs & standards to guide purchases, marketing and shared anecdotal experiences inform our decisions, and that's really weak.
Off to work.
Jon in Philly

Well the Germans have specs and standards (and laws to enforce them). For them the dyno systems meet their requirements. Personally, I much prefer a system where the users get to decide what they need.

But you're in Texas, they don't enforce regulations, even if applicable, down there, do they?

+1 on dynohub. For light, I use Supernova E3. They sell a handlebar mount for it, and it's quite easy to add a plug mid-wire to make the light removable while the dyno stays put.

--J

You can get handlebar mounts for lights that don't come with. There's nothing like KNOWING you will have light, not having to wonder about the state of your battery or whether you charged it. Or whether it will burst into flames. The very nondescript somewhat elderly shimano dynohub I use still had spade connectors so easy enough to wire matching spades onto the light's wires, so patching punctures is no more work than any other front wheel setup.

Not too sure how much that 60 Lux compares to the max 400 lumens...

I guess it depends on the conditions - I tried biking in the dark recently on the Ottawa river parkway, and it was frigging dark (no street lights). I'd want all the lighting I could get.

I'm kinda interested in the dynamo stuff - any pages that I could read up? right now i'm riding something with disc brakes, 700x32c, so not sure whether I want to sink a lot to go for a hub dyno...

Surprisingly the numbers aren't the most critical issue (60 lux vs. 400 lumens). Dyno lights are designed to meet German government specifications, some of which are concerned with where the light is directed. In short, dyno lights are designed with reflector systems (like cars) that place the light where it is needed. My experience with dyno lights (40-70 lux) indicates to me that they place as much (at least) light where it is needed as the 450 lumen battery light I used to use. Now some of the dyno lights are optimized for fast speeds (more light at a distance) or slow speeds (more light closer to the bike) and a few (Luxos U) are designed to sense the speed and change the lighting pattern as needed. Battery lights are designed like flashlights where most of the light (and battery power) is spent lighting the sky...

Now there are battery tail lights that are MUCH brighter then the dyno tail lights, but whether that is needed is an entirely different question.


Best source for information on lighting (and specifically dyno lighting) is https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/lightingsystems.htm

Clever cycles used to have a $99 dyno wheel (26" & 700c, disc/rim both), but I can't find it now; they have one for $133, no indicator of wheel size.

How bright are dynamo systems? For example, I just got a rechargeable battery powered Light & Motion, Taz 800(lumens) at a steal for only $134 at TheClymb. I found that on the 400 lumen setting I could go downhill on the road on an unlit street at full speed and feel very safe doing so. I assume that using the full 800 lumens I could do the same offroad, but that will only give me 2 hours of battery life.

In the future I want to get a new bike and go car-free and have always wondered about dynamo set-ups.

I know many people, most notably Jan Heine of Bicycle Quarterly, who are very comfortable descending twisty mountain roads with a dyno light (He uses the EDELUX, which is a design from a few years ago)...

The lumens claim from battery lights is misleading. It is a measure of the light emitted by a source, which in the case of battery lights is shaped like a cone (like a flashlight). So much of the light emitted is use to illuminate the sky.

Lux is a measure of how much light per a given area. Most of the dyno light the measurement is from a distance in front of the light (10m? at a given speed). 40 lux is about the measure for a living room with lights on at night. Office building hallways are around 80 lux. This should indicate that the 40-70 lux common in dyno lights is more than sufficient for riding at night.