Tires Explained
#27
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From: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
Bikes: Lola (2012 Schwinn Voyageur 7)
#28
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From: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
Bikes: Lola (2012 Schwinn Voyageur 7)
You could get away with just one studded tire on the front,if cost is that much of an issue. Remember,you only run studs in the snow,so you're not going to wear through them as often as regular tires. My studded tires are several years old.
When I first started commuting,it was winter,and my first few snow rides were on regular tires. Studs/knobbies help alot,but regular tires are doable as long as you're careful. It would also help to run Kool Stop Salmon pads on at least your front brakes.
I wouldn't recommend this. First,if you get a flat,you have to cut all those zip ties to remove the tire. Second,plastic zip ties aren't going to come anywhere close to steel or carbide studs in traction.
When I first started commuting,it was winter,and my first few snow rides were on regular tires. Studs/knobbies help alot,but regular tires are doable as long as you're careful. It would also help to run Kool Stop Salmon pads on at least your front brakes.
I wouldn't recommend this. First,if you get a flat,you have to cut all those zip ties to remove the tire. Second,plastic zip ties aren't going to come anywhere close to steel or carbide studs in traction.
Okay, on to the next idea.
#29
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From: Somewhere Over The Rainbow
Bikes: Lola (2012 Schwinn Voyageur 7)
Literarychic,
What type of tread pattern do your tires have now? You may not need a winter-specific tire at all, and certainly studded tires would be overkill for all but 2% of the riding conditions we see around here, and have significant penalties for the other 98%. I'd probably advise against them, in fact.
Riding in snowy conditions is not that hard-- and we scarcely get snow anymore-- but since we use salt so heavily anyway, the roads are usually clear within hours of a snowfall, and mostly just slushy. Most of the winter, the roads are dry. You may encounter icy conditions on neighborhood streets for a day or two after a snow, but generally the treacherous spots are few. A little practice, good technique, and little bit of tread will get you through some frightful looking conditions pretty easily; the inexperienced are quite surprised by what cyclists seem to ride through, but the reality is that it's just not as difficult as they think it would be.
I've had great success with cyclocross tires for Ann Arbor winters, and am pretty delighted with Kenda Kwicks in particular, now on my second set and probably 5th winter with those tires. I wouldn't necessarily recommend them for you-- a little more tread would probably give a little more sure-footedness in the worst conditions-- but I mention them to underscore the fact that one just doesn't need a big, heavy, gnarly tire to ride the winter. In a winter tire, I prioritize fast rolling in the dry, and low weight (I don't want to strain when I'm hoisting the bike to hang it in the garage; I've got enough junk on my bike already!) as much as I do traction.
The short of it is, having ridden virtually every winter in Ann Arbor since '87-- I had a five year interlude while at MSU-- it's pretty easy to get around town on the roads here, and even the sidewalks, particularly around campus and on designated bike route sidewalks, are clear the bulk of the time and don't really require anything too particular in the tire department. A little tread'll do ya!
EDIT: Oh yeah, if you can afford a second wheel set, that really changes the equations a bit, and reduces the downsides to selecting winter tires for the worst conditions.
What type of tread pattern do your tires have now? You may not need a winter-specific tire at all, and certainly studded tires would be overkill for all but 2% of the riding conditions we see around here, and have significant penalties for the other 98%. I'd probably advise against them, in fact.
Riding in snowy conditions is not that hard-- and we scarcely get snow anymore-- but since we use salt so heavily anyway, the roads are usually clear within hours of a snowfall, and mostly just slushy. Most of the winter, the roads are dry. You may encounter icy conditions on neighborhood streets for a day or two after a snow, but generally the treacherous spots are few. A little practice, good technique, and little bit of tread will get you through some frightful looking conditions pretty easily; the inexperienced are quite surprised by what cyclists seem to ride through, but the reality is that it's just not as difficult as they think it would be.
I've had great success with cyclocross tires for Ann Arbor winters, and am pretty delighted with Kenda Kwicks in particular, now on my second set and probably 5th winter with those tires. I wouldn't necessarily recommend them for you-- a little more tread would probably give a little more sure-footedness in the worst conditions-- but I mention them to underscore the fact that one just doesn't need a big, heavy, gnarly tire to ride the winter. In a winter tire, I prioritize fast rolling in the dry, and low weight (I don't want to strain when I'm hoisting the bike to hang it in the garage; I've got enough junk on my bike already!) as much as I do traction.
The short of it is, having ridden virtually every winter in Ann Arbor since '87-- I had a five year interlude while at MSU-- it's pretty easy to get around town on the roads here, and even the sidewalks, particularly around campus and on designated bike route sidewalks, are clear the bulk of the time and don't really require anything too particular in the tire department. A little tread'll do ya!
EDIT: Oh yeah, if you can afford a second wheel set, that really changes the equations a bit, and reduces the downsides to selecting winter tires for the worst conditions.
Thanks!
#30
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Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Hsinchu County Taiwan ROC
Bikes: 2007 Bianchi Volpe
Hi,
Thanks for the interesting discussion that shines a light on tire size.
I'm currently using Conti Touring tires with a flat bead and a grooved (side?) Size 700x32. My rims are WTB 22?, Tiagra hubs, that came stock when I bought the bike in 2007.
I'm interested in exploring the idea, or buying a new set of wheels, so I can ride my Volpe (cycle cross) bike on dirt roads that can be slippery when wet. I'm interested in exploring some tea field farmer roads. My idea is to have a second set of wheels I can simply swap out for riding off road in a size like 700x38.
If it matters: My brakes are Cane Creek cantilever. My STI shifters are Tiagra triple with front crank sizes 28,38,48.
What are your thoughts on this? Is it better to buy a mountain bike for this purpose? (I doubt I will do any single track here.)
Thanks for the interesting discussion that shines a light on tire size.
I'm currently using Conti Touring tires with a flat bead and a grooved (side?) Size 700x32. My rims are WTB 22?, Tiagra hubs, that came stock when I bought the bike in 2007.
I'm interested in exploring the idea, or buying a new set of wheels, so I can ride my Volpe (cycle cross) bike on dirt roads that can be slippery when wet. I'm interested in exploring some tea field farmer roads. My idea is to have a second set of wheels I can simply swap out for riding off road in a size like 700x38.
If it matters: My brakes are Cane Creek cantilever. My STI shifters are Tiagra triple with front crank sizes 28,38,48.
What are your thoughts on this? Is it better to buy a mountain bike for this purpose? (I doubt I will do any single track here.)
#31
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Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,280
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From: Sherwood, OR
Hi,
Thanks for the interesting discussion that shines a light on tire size.
I'm currently using Conti Touring tires with a flat bead and a grooved (side?) Size 700x32. My rims are WTB 22?, Tiagra hubs, that came stock when I bought the bike in 2007.
I'm interested in exploring the idea, or buying a new set of wheels, so I can ride my Volpe (cycle cross) bike on dirt roads that can be slippery when wet. I'm interested in exploring some tea field farmer roads. My idea is to have a second set of wheels I can simply swap out for riding off road in a size like 700x38.
If it matters: My brakes are Cane Creek cantilever. My STI shifters are Tiagra triple with front crank sizes 28,38,48.
What are your thoughts on this? Is it better to buy a mountain bike for this purpose? (I doubt I will do any single track here.)
Thanks for the interesting discussion that shines a light on tire size.
I'm currently using Conti Touring tires with a flat bead and a grooved (side?) Size 700x32. My rims are WTB 22?, Tiagra hubs, that came stock when I bought the bike in 2007.
I'm interested in exploring the idea, or buying a new set of wheels, so I can ride my Volpe (cycle cross) bike on dirt roads that can be slippery when wet. I'm interested in exploring some tea field farmer roads. My idea is to have a second set of wheels I can simply swap out for riding off road in a size like 700x38.
If it matters: My brakes are Cane Creek cantilever. My STI shifters are Tiagra triple with front crank sizes 28,38,48.
What are your thoughts on this? Is it better to buy a mountain bike for this purpose? (I doubt I will do any single track here.)
1. You need wheels, tires, tubes, rim strips, cassette, and skewers to be the most convenient. The cost of everything can add up.
2. Make sure that your "off-road" tires clear everything - fenders, seat stays, chain stays, and fork. This should not be a big problem for the Volpe. You should have room for at least 35mm without fenders, and surely 28mm with fenders.
3. Try and get a rid width near what you have now, or you will have to make brake and/or pad adjustments when you swap wheels.
Plan correctly, and swapping wheels will be a 90 second affair.
#32
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From: England / CPH
Bikes: 2010 Cube Acid / 2013 Mango FGSS
learn ISO 5775 measurements as it makes everything easier.
622 (ISO) is 700c (French) and 28 Zoll (German)
23-622 is what I ride on my FGSS
57-559 is what I ride on my MTB
once you know those, you can communicate with everyone and never make a mistake as they're always stamped directly on the tire.
622 (ISO) is 700c (French) and 28 Zoll (German)
23-622 is what I ride on my FGSS
57-559 is what I ride on my MTB
once you know those, you can communicate with everyone and never make a mistake as they're always stamped directly on the tire.
#33
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,881
Likes: 188
From: Colorado
Bikes: '91 Mtn Tek Vertical, '74 Raleigh Sports, '72 Raleigh Twenty, '84 Univega Gran Turismo, '09 Surly Karate Monkey, '92 Burley Rock-n-Roll, '86 Miyata 310, '76 Raleigh Shopper
My 700Cx35 Schwalbe Marathon has an ERTO of 37-622 which suggests that the 35mm tire (700Cx35) is actually 37mm tall (ERTO 37-622) which is apparent when you look at the tire because it has a slight aero-shape whereas my Michelin Pilot Sport (700Cx32) appears round and the ERTO bears it out, 32-622.
#34
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
meyers66, it depends on your riding. I also happen to have a Bianchi Volpe. I have 32mm tires on it and also fenders. I haven't tested to see what width I can put on, but I suspect I could put on at least 35mm tires while keeping the fenders. With the fenders off, I could probably put even wider tires. My Volpe is from the mid 90's, so the geometry has probably changed a bit, but not necessarily the tire width tolerance.
Changing your wheels makes things convenient, but I'm pretty adept at changing tires, and I wouldn't bother with that expense. I'd prefer to get another bike. It's more fun.
I don't have an off road bike. One of these days, I'll get around to it. In the fall, I took a long trail ride with a bunch of guys. Some had road bikes, and some had off road bikes. All of them had wider tires than I did. I guess that means I'm OK with off road riding with a road bike and road tires. I could have done it with narrower tires, but I wouldn't have wanted to. This was on the Old Croton Aqueduct trail in NY state.
Changing your wheels makes things convenient, but I'm pretty adept at changing tires, and I wouldn't bother with that expense. I'd prefer to get another bike. It's more fun.
I don't have an off road bike. One of these days, I'll get around to it. In the fall, I took a long trail ride with a bunch of guys. Some had road bikes, and some had off road bikes. All of them had wider tires than I did. I guess that means I'm OK with off road riding with a road bike and road tires. I could have done it with narrower tires, but I wouldn't have wanted to. This was on the Old Croton Aqueduct trail in NY state.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
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