need advice on getting a commuter.
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: California
need advice on getting a commuter.
Hello everyone, I hope this is the correct forum (if not let me apologize up front).
I am looking for a used bike (budget is $400 max) that I can commute to work (daily at just under 10 miles round trip and a few times a month at 23 miles round trip). I am in California so I don't have to worry about a real winter but there is rain (well most years anyway). I've been lurking on these (and a few other forums) and have some up with a few options and just wanted to get some feedback on the quality of the bike. I have visited a number of LBS and either I don't like what is in my range or if I do like it it's out of my range.
I will be making some changes to make it a more comfortable upright commuter (spare my back). I do tend to like the '80's lugged steel but I'm open. Anyways here are the ones I am considering (all of these are in very good condition):
Trek 400 Elance
Schwinn Tempo (upgraded to Shimano 105)
Schwinn Super Sport
Trek 510
Raleigh Competition
Cannondale M500 (cheapest option)
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated (thank you in advance).
I am looking for a used bike (budget is $400 max) that I can commute to work (daily at just under 10 miles round trip and a few times a month at 23 miles round trip). I am in California so I don't have to worry about a real winter but there is rain (well most years anyway). I've been lurking on these (and a few other forums) and have some up with a few options and just wanted to get some feedback on the quality of the bike. I have visited a number of LBS and either I don't like what is in my range or if I do like it it's out of my range.
I will be making some changes to make it a more comfortable upright commuter (spare my back). I do tend to like the '80's lugged steel but I'm open. Anyways here are the ones I am considering (all of these are in very good condition):
Trek 400 Elance
Schwinn Tempo (upgraded to Shimano 105)
Schwinn Super Sport
Trek 510
Raleigh Competition
Cannondale M500 (cheapest option)
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated (thank you in advance).
#2
aka Tom Reingold




Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 44,222
Likes: 6,476
From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Those will all do the job well. Fit is crucial to how efficient and pleasant it is. A lot of upgrades are BS. Tires make a difference, though.
__________________
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
“When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments.” — Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#3
Fork and spoon operator
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 577
Likes: 11
From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
Those look nice. Are you planning to switch out the handlebars, or just lift them up a bit? I assume those can all take at least 28 mm tires, but I'd make sure. To me, there's a big comfort difference between 25 mm and 28 mm.
#4
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,162
Likes: 647
From: Brooklyn NY
Bikes: Kuota Kredo/Chorus, Trek 7000 commuter, Trek 8000 MTB and a few others
I'm partial to MTBs for commuters myself. I ride a 1990 Trek 7000 as a commuter. But I've also commuted on my carbon road bike when I wanted to take it with me for a long weekend. Either works, but it is easier to carry a laptop on the mtb with the rack.
#5
Hogosha Sekai

Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 6,674
Likes: 26
From: STS
Bikes: Leader 725, Centurion Turbo, Scwhinn Peloton, Schwinn Premis, GT Tequesta, Bridgestone CB-2,72' Centurion Lemans, 72 Raleigh Competition
Hello everyone, I hope this is the correct forum (if not let me apologize up front).
I am looking for a used bike (budget is $400 max) that I can commute to work (daily at just under 10 miles round trip and a few times a month at 23 miles round trip). I am in California so I don't have to worry about a real winter but there is rain (well most years anyway). I've been lurking on these (and a few other forums) and have some up with a few options and just wanted to get some feedback on the quality of the bike. I have visited a number of LBS and either I don't like what is in my range or if I do like it it's out of my range.
I will be making some changes to make it a more comfortable upright commuter (spare my back). I do tend to like the '80's lugged steel but I'm open. Anyways here are the ones I am considering (all of these are in very good condition):
Trek 400 Elance
Schwinn Tempo (upgraded to Shimano 105)
Schwinn Super Sport
Trek 510
Raleigh Competition
Cannondale M500 (cheapest option)
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated (thank you in advance).
I am looking for a used bike (budget is $400 max) that I can commute to work (daily at just under 10 miles round trip and a few times a month at 23 miles round trip). I am in California so I don't have to worry about a real winter but there is rain (well most years anyway). I've been lurking on these (and a few other forums) and have some up with a few options and just wanted to get some feedback on the quality of the bike. I have visited a number of LBS and either I don't like what is in my range or if I do like it it's out of my range.
I will be making some changes to make it a more comfortable upright commuter (spare my back). I do tend to like the '80's lugged steel but I'm open. Anyways here are the ones I am considering (all of these are in very good condition):
Trek 400 Elance
Schwinn Tempo (upgraded to Shimano 105)
Schwinn Super Sport
Trek 510
Raleigh Competition
Cannondale M500 (cheapest option)
Any feedback will be greatly appreciated (thank you in advance).
#6
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter

If you haven't check the sticky at the top of the forum.
My vote would be a rigid MTB with street tires for starters.
I bought a very slightly used Trek 7200 hybrid off CL for $200. The guy I flipped it to is still riding it and loves it.
Don't get hung up on component levels right now. It's more important to get something to ride. $400 doesn't buy a lot in a new bike---you're in the ballpark for a good fork.
#8
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: California
I'm learning to not be too concerned about groups, I currently have an 88 Miyata Trail Runner (splined triple butted CrMo for whatever that's worth) that I got for $25 bucks but while I like it it's a bit too long to get a good upright position even with a stem extension and some nice comfort handlebars. I just had a friend of mine tell me someone they know is selling a 2011 Felt F95 specs are:
Microshift 9sp shifters
Tiagra RD, Sora Front
FSA Tempo Compact Crank
Alex R500 wheels on Felt hubs
12-25 Sun Race cassette
(edit
Oh and she has a Cannondale M700 for $150 too. Seems like average wear and tear on both bikes.
That may as well be chinese to me but it's a good looking bike. I'm going to see it tomorrow and ride it around a bit.
Microshift 9sp shifters
Tiagra RD, Sora Front
FSA Tempo Compact Crank
Alex R500 wheels on Felt hubs
12-25 Sun Race cassette
(edit
Oh and she has a Cannondale M700 for $150 too. Seems like average wear and tear on both bikes.That may as well be chinese to me but it's a good looking bike. I'm going to see it tomorrow and ride it around a bit.
Last edited by Nnyan; 02-20-14 at 01:57 AM.
#9
Zip tie Karen
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 7,005
Likes: 1,546
From: Fair Oaks Ranch, TX
Bikes: '13 Motobecane Fantom29 HT, '16 Motobecane Turino Pro Disc, '18 Velobuild VB-R-022, '21 Tsunami SNM-100
This is a commuter? With occasional longer weekend rides for recreation? You'd better lay out your very specific needs for the bike before considering this model and that. You'll be in a tail chase that will result in a bike that's unlikely to be ideal for your purposes.
1) Fenders/Mudguards - you'll be riding regularly in rain
2) Eyelet Mounts for Rear Rack - you want to wear a backpack in Summer? panniers are a better option.
3) Frame Clearance For Tires - in addition to the fenders, you'll want tires at 28mm minimum, more like 32mm
4) Upright or Relaxed Ride - so not a sport/racing type bike, but rather sport/touring, touring, cyclocross, etc.
5) Gearing - depending on your terrain, you'll at least want the gear range that you can use, particularly carrying a light load
6) Hand Position - do you want drop bars? could you use flat bars, or would you convert if the bike you found needed changing.
So, maybe none of the bikes you listed meet this set of needs. Are each in a size that can be adapted to fit you properly?
A rigid fork steel MTB is a great idea, but maybe a steel cyclocross bike or tourer would be a better starting point. Do you have someone close by who is mechanically adept with bikes, and/or has a stash of parts to make some simple swaps for you?
1) Fenders/Mudguards - you'll be riding regularly in rain
2) Eyelet Mounts for Rear Rack - you want to wear a backpack in Summer? panniers are a better option.
3) Frame Clearance For Tires - in addition to the fenders, you'll want tires at 28mm minimum, more like 32mm
4) Upright or Relaxed Ride - so not a sport/racing type bike, but rather sport/touring, touring, cyclocross, etc.
5) Gearing - depending on your terrain, you'll at least want the gear range that you can use, particularly carrying a light load
6) Hand Position - do you want drop bars? could you use flat bars, or would you convert if the bike you found needed changing.
So, maybe none of the bikes you listed meet this set of needs. Are each in a size that can be adapted to fit you properly?
A rigid fork steel MTB is a great idea, but maybe a steel cyclocross bike or tourer would be a better starting point. Do you have someone close by who is mechanically adept with bikes, and/or has a stash of parts to make some simple swaps for you?
#11
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
while I like it it's a bit too long to get a good upright position even with a stem extension and some nice comfort handlebars. I just had a friend of mine tell me someone they know is selling a 2011 Felt F95.................she has a Cannondale M700 for $150 too. Seems like average wear and tear on both bikes..............That may as well be chinese to me but it's a good looking bike. I'm going to see it tomorrow and ride it around a bit.
Riding an ill fitting bike as a commuter will cause discomforts that don't surface when you "ride it around a bit".
As you found out with your current bike, bolt on parts can't make up for a drastically misfit ride.
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,828
Likes: 2
From: West Georgia
Bikes: K2 Mod 5.0 Roadie, Fuji Commuter
Here's more on that Cannon.
That would be a perfect starter for you and a super find. Buck for buck the amount of bike that you get can't be touched with a new one.
If it fits.
That would be a perfect starter for you and a super find. Buck for buck the amount of bike that you get can't be touched with a new one.
If it fits.
#13
Nigel
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,991
Likes: 7
From: San Jose, CA
Bikes: 1980s and 1990s steel: CyclePro, Nishiki, Schwinn, SR, Trek........
My single commuters are an early '80s Schwinn World Tourist (made by Giant) and an early '80's SR Sierra Sport. This year, usually I am commuting on our Trek T50 tandem - which is a LOT faster than a single. Commuting bikes, like touring bikes, need to be able to haul stuff. Reliability trumps all, followed by comfort. Speed is dead last in the equation. The WT, SR and T50 have flat bars, saddles that I find very comfortable, puncture resistant tire, thorn resistant tubes and tire liners. I do 18 miles round trip. All have panniers to carry stuff; and this time of year, often my jacket in the afternoon. The all have water bottle holders, excellent brakes, SRAM grip shifters and fenders.
The WT, I purchased new in 1984. The paint frame, fork and headset are original - and that is it. It is equipped with a 50-34 crankset, 13-25 7 speed freewheel. It is equipped with 32-630 tires. The SR I built up a few years ago from an ebay frame and fork. The SR has a 52-39 crankset, same 13-25 7 speed freewheel and 37-590 tires. The overall gearing (rings & tire diameter) in the big ring of the two bikes is almost identical. I target cruising in the big ring and 5th at the back; giving me two gears up left for downhills and a bunch of gears down for going up hill. For traffic lights on the flat, I am starting off in the big ring at the front and big cog at the back. Setting up both bikes with identical gearing make things easier - less thought involved, especially with the irresponsible motor vehicle operators on the road.
I have a '95 Trek 930 and '85 Schwinn Cimarron in the works that will may also be used for commuting. The will get 40-559 tires, and drop bars with 3x8 brifters.
The WT, I purchased new in 1984. The paint frame, fork and headset are original - and that is it. It is equipped with a 50-34 crankset, 13-25 7 speed freewheel. It is equipped with 32-630 tires. The SR I built up a few years ago from an ebay frame and fork. The SR has a 52-39 crankset, same 13-25 7 speed freewheel and 37-590 tires. The overall gearing (rings & tire diameter) in the big ring of the two bikes is almost identical. I target cruising in the big ring and 5th at the back; giving me two gears up left for downhills and a bunch of gears down for going up hill. For traffic lights on the flat, I am starting off in the big ring at the front and big cog at the back. Setting up both bikes with identical gearing make things easier - less thought involved, especially with the irresponsible motor vehicle operators on the road.
I have a '95 Trek 930 and '85 Schwinn Cimarron in the works that will may also be used for commuting. The will get 40-559 tires, and drop bars with 3x8 brifters.
#14
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 7,391
Likes: 13
From: Memphis TN area
Bikes: 2011 Felt Z85 (road/commuter), 2006 Marin Pine Mountain (utility/commuter E-bike), 1995 KHS Alite 1000 (gravel grinder)
A note about being upright... when I first got back into cycling in 2012 I tried my hardest to get my MTB to have a more upright position. It originally had a slammed 130mm stem. I switched out the fork with a rigid fork with spacers under the stem, tried a shorter adjustable stem adjusted as high as it would go, even super-riser handlebars. But then later I realized that somewhat leaned forward is actually better, for me anyway. When I get a new 31.8 mm flat handlebar I will be using a 100mm 6° stem with only a couple of small spacers underneath it.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
From: Costal California
Bikes: Unknown model Giant MTB
The best bike for you will depend a lot on personal preference. For what it's worth, my favorite commuter bike ever is a 70's girls Schwinn varsity converted to single speed. Old schwinns are very nice bikes, even the lower end models. They're very reliable, solid, comfortable, and not too flashy. IMO one of the best things about them for a daily commuter is the ease of maintenance. I can literally fix anything on my bike in ten minutes with a screwdriver and a crescent wrench... which is really great when you need to fix something by 6 am tomorrow!
Either buy a bike that already has fenders and lights installed or budget to buy them separately. Same goes for a rack if you'll need to carry stuff. Most older bikes will take a rear rack and fenders, you may need to get creative with some p-clamps to make it work.
Either buy a bike that already has fenders and lights installed or budget to buy them separately. Same goes for a rack if you'll need to carry stuff. Most older bikes will take a rear rack and fenders, you may need to get creative with some p-clamps to make it work.
#16
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: California
quick update, so I've actually purchased the Tempo and a 1985 Raleigh Olympian (Midnight Blue/Crimson, 555SL tube, everything is original including tires best looking used frame that I've run into looks near new). Not a high end bike for sure but around mid-range I think. I got these very inexpensively so I figure whichever one I liked best I would keep and re-sell the other. I do like both of these but the Tempo is just a touch too big for me (I did the sizing website and went to a LBS to get sized). Both bikes are getting tune ups/clean-ups/etc... at a small LBS near my work. The Raleigh will get a vintage rear rack, lights, fenders, new stem and Nitto upright handlebars, seat, tires/tubes/cables. I'll post some pics as soon as it's done.
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