Which parts get priority for quick cleaning?
#1
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Which parts get priority for quick cleaning?
If you are busy or don't feel like thoroughly cleaning your bike often, which parts would you still spend few minutes to clean after every few rides? Which parts should get the priority? For me, I regard the brakes as very important, so if I am to clean anything in a couple minutes, I wipe clean the wheel rims and the brake areas. Next may be the rear derailleur which gets very dirty because of the location.
#4
Fork and spoon operator
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From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
In the winter, every couple weeks I remove the chain, cassette, and chainring, and degrease them. While they're soaking I sponge of the bike. It doesn't take too long, and it keeps everything running smoothly.
#5
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#6
Fork and spoon operator
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Hopkins, Minnesota
Bikes: 2013 Surly Crosscheck, 1990 Schwinn Impact, 1973 Schwinn Continental
After every ride I spin the cranks while I wipe off the chain, cassette, and jockey wheels with a rag. That's my highest priority 20 seconds. But the bigger job only takes 20-30 minutes of work, so it's not TOO bad.
Last edited by PennyTheDog; 09-20-14 at 10:49 AM.
#7
There's a sort of black goop that forms from brake pad residue gets on my wheels, crank arms, and chainstays, and chainguard. It mixes with the oil that drips from the Sturmey-Archer. If it gets wet, then it oozes everywhere, and can get on my hands and clothes. So I wipe it off with a rag whenever I inflate my tires. I also wipe down anything that's accessible whenever I service the bike.
I'd trust my bikes to be safe and reliable indefinitely without any special attention paid towards cleaning. Naturally that will change if I get into winter riding.
I'd trust my bikes to be safe and reliable indefinitely without any special attention paid towards cleaning. Naturally that will change if I get into winter riding.
#8
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Main thing about major cleaning for me is more about exhaustion than time: I am more exhausted after major-cleaning the bike in bent-over position than after a long ride. (Different if one can hook the bike higher on a professional maintenance stand)
#10
My weekly routine:
This is a process that really only takes about twenty minutes to accomplish. All the parts stay on the bike. I'll take additional time to perform any other maintenance and repairs the bike needs. If the week has been particularly rainy/snowy, I may have to do this routine more often to keep things moving.
I don't particularly have a shorter routine.
- Wipe chain clean
- Clean cassette and chainrings (I use the Park GSC-1 for this)
- Lube chain
- Using a rag with simple green, wipe down the braking surfaces
- Using same rag, with more simple green if needed, wipe down rest of bike
This is a process that really only takes about twenty minutes to accomplish. All the parts stay on the bike. I'll take additional time to perform any other maintenance and repairs the bike needs. If the week has been particularly rainy/snowy, I may have to do this routine more often to keep things moving.
I don't particularly have a shorter routine.
#13
Also, get the brake pads that come in holders. That way, if you feel it necessary to pull them off to clean them, you can leave the holder bolted to the brake.
#14
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From: central ohio
Bikes: 96 gary fisher 'utopia' : 99 Softride 'Norwester'(for sale), 1972 Raleigh Twenty. Surly 1x1 converted to 1x8, 96 Turner Burner
I keep the bike dirty and grungy looking to hopefully deter against theft. But I clean my chain regularly(monthly). And occasionally I'll clean the brakes and crank/BB, and cassette. But the chain is the most important part on a bike so I do regular maintenance on that.
I use a grunge guard on the rear d so that eliminates me having to do anything with that.
I use a grunge guard on the rear d so that eliminates me having to do anything with that.
Last edited by scoatw; 09-21-14 at 07:36 AM.
#15
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
I like [MENTION=162347]mikeybikes[/MENTION]'s advice, though I stopped using Simple Green, as it seems to leave a dull sheen. I use the wax-based cleaners such as Bike Lust or regular old Endust.
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Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments. Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#16
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#17
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From: Minneapolis, MN
Bikes: 1991 Eddie Merckx Corsa, 1991 Cannondale 3.0 Road Race, 2008 Bianchi Pista
I keep the bike dirty and grungy looking to hopefully dissuade against theft. But I clean my chain regularly(monthly). And occasionally I'll clean the brakes and crank/BB, and cassette. But the chain is the most important part so I do regular maintenance on that.
I use a grunge guard on the rear d so that eliminates me having to do anything with that.

I use a grunge guard on the rear d so that eliminates me having to do anything with that.
#18
aka Tom Reingold




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From: New York, NY, and High Falls, NY, USA
Bikes: 1962 Rudge Sports, 1971 Raleigh Super Course, 1971 Raleigh Pro Track, 1974 Raleigh International, 1975 Viscount Fixie, 1982 McLean, 1996 Lemond (Ti), 2002 Burley Zydeco tandem
Yup. I'm really happy with Endust and Bike Lust. The dirt jumps off and runs away.
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New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments. Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
Tom Reingold, tom@noglider.com
New York City and High Falls, NY
Blogs: The Experienced Cyclist; noglider's ride blog
When man invented the bicycle he reached the peak of his attainments. Elizabeth West, US author
Please email me rather than PM'ing me. Thanks.
#19
I like @mikeybikes's advice, though I stopped using Simple Green, as it seems to leave a dull sheen. I use the wax-based cleaners such as Bike Lust or regular old Endust.
#20
Jedi Master
Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Lake Forest, IL
Bikes: https://stinkston.blogspot.com/p/my-bikes.html
Same for me. I use one of those chain cleaners and gear brushes, and it keeps everything nice and shiny. I actually never touch the brake pads. Every time I have cleaned those in the past, the breaks squeal for weeks.
#21
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From: CID
Bikes: 1991 Bianchi Eros, 1964 Armstrong, 1988 Diamondback Ascent, 1988 Bianchi Premio, 1987 Bianchi Sport SX, 1980s Raleigh mixte (hers), All-City Space Horse (hers)
That would be the dumb, labor-intensive way to do it. If you're going to clean the surfaces of the brake pads, just take the wheels out and wipe the pads with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol. Usually I just "floss" between the pads and rims with a dry paper towel and call it good.
#22
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From: Michigan
Bikes: Windsor Fens, Giant Seek 0 (2014, Alfine 8 + discs)
I clean and lube the chain every 2 or 3 weeks. The rest of the bike doesn't get that dirty but occasionally I'll blast it with the power washer. It deep cleans the cassette and everything in about a minute.
I can't say I've ever cleaned the brakes, unless power washing them counts. I do blast the nozzle in between the pads and the rim during the wash. Also the inside of the brake levers, derailleur mechanism, etc.
I can't say I've ever cleaned the brakes, unless power washing them counts. I do blast the nozzle in between the pads and the rim during the wash. Also the inside of the brake levers, derailleur mechanism, etc.
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#23
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From: Fort Worth, TX
Bikes: 2006 Specialized Ruby Pro aka "Rhubarb" / and a backup road bike
The bike engine gets highest priority (me).
My bike cleaning routine is pretty quick. I am a fair weather rider and stick to paved surfaces other than a few hardpack trails that connect paved routes. I am also careful about riding over anything on the road.
I'll pull the computers and saddlebag off.
I lean the bike up against the car on the driveway, set up an old/folding chair next to it, and get the garden hose ready.
I'll sit on the chair to keep knees and back happy.
Then squirt Simple Green over the cassette, derailleurs, crank, pedals, around the brakes and any gritty areas.
Then I squirt blue foamy Dawn concentrate on the same areas plus some of the frame.
Scrub the drivetrain with a nylon bristle brush making sure I get the entire length of the chain.
I'll hose off the bike (but not the handlebars nor saddle), then detail with a blue paper shop towel. The chain and cranks get wiped.
I don't clean the brakepads. They don't seem to get dirty.
The bike dries while I roll up the hose and move the cleaning supplies and chair to the doorstep.
Then I'll spin the cranks and bounce the bike to get the rest of the water off the bike.
I'll also use this time to inspect the frame for scratches/damage, tires for wear or damage, and spin the rear wheel/ping the spokes to see if any spokes sound dull. I'll check chain stretch inside the house with a Park tool.
The bartape is black with a slick finish and stays clean. The saddle stays clean on top (the bike shorts polish it while I ride). The saddlebag keeps the bottom of the saddle clean.
I also tend to run my chain a little on the dry side. It is incredibly cleaner and I've not seen a noticeable reduction in chain/cassette lifespan. Cassette and cranks have 19,000 miles on them.
The bike goes to the shop for repairs other than tire issues. I make sure it's clean first. Bike mechanics appreciate that.
Clean bikes are happy bikes.
My bike cleaning routine is pretty quick. I am a fair weather rider and stick to paved surfaces other than a few hardpack trails that connect paved routes. I am also careful about riding over anything on the road.
I'll pull the computers and saddlebag off.
I lean the bike up against the car on the driveway, set up an old/folding chair next to it, and get the garden hose ready.
I'll sit on the chair to keep knees and back happy.
Then squirt Simple Green over the cassette, derailleurs, crank, pedals, around the brakes and any gritty areas.
Then I squirt blue foamy Dawn concentrate on the same areas plus some of the frame.
Scrub the drivetrain with a nylon bristle brush making sure I get the entire length of the chain.
I'll hose off the bike (but not the handlebars nor saddle), then detail with a blue paper shop towel. The chain and cranks get wiped.
I don't clean the brakepads. They don't seem to get dirty.
The bike dries while I roll up the hose and move the cleaning supplies and chair to the doorstep.
Then I'll spin the cranks and bounce the bike to get the rest of the water off the bike.
I'll also use this time to inspect the frame for scratches/damage, tires for wear or damage, and spin the rear wheel/ping the spokes to see if any spokes sound dull. I'll check chain stretch inside the house with a Park tool.
The bartape is black with a slick finish and stays clean. The saddle stays clean on top (the bike shorts polish it while I ride). The saddlebag keeps the bottom of the saddle clean.
I also tend to run my chain a little on the dry side. It is incredibly cleaner and I've not seen a noticeable reduction in chain/cassette lifespan. Cassette and cranks have 19,000 miles on them.
The bike goes to the shop for repairs other than tire issues. I make sure it's clean first. Bike mechanics appreciate that.
Clean bikes are happy bikes.
#24
genec
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: West Coast
Bikes: custom built, sannino, beachbike, giant trance x2
That's how it works for me. Keep the bike lubed... wipe off the dirt to keep the moving parts from gumming up. Give the bike a good cleaning from time to time. I tried one of those Pedro chain cleaner things and frankly it seemed easier to just take the chain off and shake it clean in a bottle or can with some solvent.
Back in the days of loose bearings, I would break the entire bike down once a year and rebuild it. Sealed bearings have changed this.
Back in the days of loose bearings, I would break the entire bike down once a year and rebuild it. Sealed bearings have changed this.
#25
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That would be the dumb, labor-intensive way to do it. If you're going to clean the surfaces of the brake pads, just take the wheels out and wipe the pads with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol. Usually I just "floss" between the pads and rims with a dry paper towel and call it good.
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