What did you just buy for your gravel bike?
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#879
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#883
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I swapped out my FSA crankset that came on my bike and replaced it with the GRX 600 10 speed crankset and Shimano Tiagra RS-500 BB. The tolerances are much tighter, but the crank shifts smoother and the chain line is more straight. A lot of people here said a new crank and BB wouldn't make much of a difference...I'm glad I didn't listen! I also cut almost 200g of weight switching out the square tapered BB. Seems like a win/win upgrade for me!
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off brand Garmin Varia seatpost mount

brooks c17 all weather, since a lot of the top on one of my original c17 saddles is finally worn away.

400x27.2 Whisky no7 offset carbon seatpost since the current 350mm Easton seatpost is basically right at the min insert line and there is a slight clicking every now and then from somewhere in the saddle/seatpost area. This will give more surface area inside the seat tube and maybe itll feel different from the aluminum seatpost its replacing.

brooks c17 all weather, since a lot of the top on one of my original c17 saddles is finally worn away.

400x27.2 Whisky no7 offset carbon seatpost since the current 350mm Easton seatpost is basically right at the min insert line and there is a slight clicking every now and then from somewhere in the saddle/seatpost area. This will give more surface area inside the seat tube and maybe itll feel different from the aluminum seatpost its replacing.

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I know the bike manufacturers are trying to hit a price point, but the difference going with the complete groupset was a significant upgrade. Mainly because I can now put the power to the pedals much more efficiently. Tracking my stats for the past few weeks, my average/top speeds have increased and my cadence has also improved. Plus I went with shorter crank arms which eliminated toe overlap allowing me dive into corners at full speed and I'm able to spin at a higher cadence which has helped on group rides. To me, it was the equivalent of installing a race clutch on a rally (gravel) car (bike)!
#886
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Silca frame pump:
in situ
Compared to my 1987 Bianchi Silca pump, and current mini pump and CO[sub]2[/sub]:
in situ
Compared to my 1987 Bianchi Silca pump, and current mini pump and CO[sub]2[/sub]:

Last edited by Cyclist0108; 09-06-21 at 10:23 AM.
#887
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I know the bike manufacturers are trying to hit a price point, but the difference going with the complete groupset was a significant upgrade. Mainly because I can now put the power to the pedals much more efficiently. Tracking my stats for the past few weeks, my average/top speeds have increased and my cadence has also improved. Plus I went with shorter crank arms which eliminated toe overlap allowing me dive into corners at full speed and I'm able to spin at a higher cadence which has helped on group rides. To me, it was the equivalent of installing a race clutch on a rally (gravel) car (bike)!
But yeah, looking forward to the difference.

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In Cannondale's defence, back in 2019 GRX wasn't around, and Shimano 105 does not come in 46/30T, so it was very slim pickings. The 46/30 is actually why I chose the Topstone over the Grail, which had a compact 105 (50/34T).
But yeah, looking forward to the difference.
But yeah, looking forward to the difference.

One of the guys I ride with has a gravel bike with a front 48t chainring and 11-42t, but is insanely fast and strong. He was telling me he wants to swap out to a 50t, because the uphill trails were too easy with his current gearing!
#889
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...unless he is saying he needs harder gearing too, which then the 50 up front makes sense.
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So he has a 1x system thats 48 up front and 11-42 in back? If he doesnt need all the gearing to get up hills, then if he just gets a smaller cassette he will have smaller jumps and still have all the range he needs. A smaller cassette will save weight and likely be cheaper too.
...unless he is saying he needs harder gearing too, which then the 50 up front makes sense.
...unless he is saying he needs harder gearing too, which then the 50 up front makes sense.
#891
Newbie
Ordered the parts needed for a SRAM Eagle AXS 1x mullet conversion. The X01 derailleur came in, but with the shortage it looks like I’ll be waiting till the end of December for everything else to arrive.

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A Microshift 10 speed clutch derailleur. XLE something, probably previous generation since now XLE clutched is 11 speed only.
Solid piece of budget kit, some 30ish Euros. The old non clutch Deore led to chain slap on rough terrain, this looks way more solid and shifting is more precise, the old mech got a bit sloppy.
Solid piece of budget kit, some 30ish Euros. The old non clutch Deore led to chain slap on rough terrain, this looks way more solid and shifting is more precise, the old mech got a bit sloppy.
#893
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My '07 Raleigh RX 1.0 is actually my favorite road bike. It still has the original Tiagra/105 9sp group. I just ordered a Rival 22 mini group and the Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Pure Race wheelset for it. I already have a nice set of Raceface Cadence cranks with 46/36. I believe I'll get some 35mm Gravelking slicks for it, still trying to decide that. Never had a SRAM group before but always wanted it. It'll be a nice little budget build.

#894
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I bought a second gravel wheelset for my drop bar MTB that finally arrived after a few months of being built. Aaaaand then I bought Curve Walmer bars in 60cm so my bike is now MASSIVE!



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My '07 Raleigh RX 1.0 is actually my favorite road bike. It still has the original Tiagra/105 9sp group. I just ordered a Rival 22 mini group and the Bicycle Wheel Warehouse Pure Race wheelset for it. I already have a nice set of Raceface Cadence cranks with 46/36. I believe I'll get some 35mm Gravelking slicks for it, still trying to decide that. Never had a SRAM group before but always wanted it. It'll be a nice little budget build.



#897
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Ultradynamico Rosé JFF
Against my better judgement, I just purchased a pair of Ultradynamico Rosé JFF tires, tanwall.
I say it was against my better judgement because I’m using these for winter tires here in Michigan, so besides the price being rather stupidly high for my amateur needs, I reckon the winter slop is going to make the sidewalls, especially the DS rear, look crappy in short order.
Oh well. These are going on my first dedicated gravel bike, so gone are the restrictions and compromises of my old dual purpose rig, so I’m bound to make some mistakes while finding what works best for me now. The main reason I went with Rosés was the tread pattern, which seems to be well suited to my conditions; I’ll see plenty of hardpack during the season, which turns into a shallow layer of medium viscosity, sandy mud when wet. When it snows, the dirt roads get packed hard pretty quickly and I have used file treads fairly successfully on it in the past, but snow is always a mixed bag, depending on so many variables, so I figured that between the record-setting (for my use history) width of 42mm and the shoulder knobs, I should at least add stability beyond what I’ve ever had, and that’s a good thing.
I just had an appendectomy today, so it’ll be awhile before I can log miles and say anything meaningful about their performance, but I’ll try to post a review at some point.

Ultradynamico Rosé JFF
https://ultradynamico.com/products/rose-jff
I say it was against my better judgement because I’m using these for winter tires here in Michigan, so besides the price being rather stupidly high for my amateur needs, I reckon the winter slop is going to make the sidewalls, especially the DS rear, look crappy in short order.
Oh well. These are going on my first dedicated gravel bike, so gone are the restrictions and compromises of my old dual purpose rig, so I’m bound to make some mistakes while finding what works best for me now. The main reason I went with Rosés was the tread pattern, which seems to be well suited to my conditions; I’ll see plenty of hardpack during the season, which turns into a shallow layer of medium viscosity, sandy mud when wet. When it snows, the dirt roads get packed hard pretty quickly and I have used file treads fairly successfully on it in the past, but snow is always a mixed bag, depending on so many variables, so I figured that between the record-setting (for my use history) width of 42mm and the shoulder knobs, I should at least add stability beyond what I’ve ever had, and that’s a good thing.
I just had an appendectomy today, so it’ll be awhile before I can log miles and say anything meaningful about their performance, but I’ll try to post a review at some point.

Ultradynamico Rosé JFF
https://ultradynamico.com/products/rose-jff
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I got an Archer D1x Trail system.




I had to get TRP Hylex RS brakes to make it work. They are a huge improvement over the SRAM.
I think I’ll end up with a shorter stem to make the longer hoods fit.
It shifts great. Not necessarily any faster than well tuned mechanical but with no effort. $700, 300 for the brakes and 400 for the system. Pretty pleased on first impressions.




I had to get TRP Hylex RS brakes to make it work. They are a huge improvement over the SRAM.
I think I’ll end up with a shorter stem to make the longer hoods fit.
It shifts great. Not necessarily any faster than well tuned mechanical but with no effort. $700, 300 for the brakes and 400 for the system. Pretty pleased on first impressions.
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I got an Archer D1x Trail system.




I had to get TRP Hylex RS brakes to make it work. They are a huge improvement over the SRAM.
I think I’ll end up with a shorter stem to make the longer hoods fit.
It shifts great. Not necessarily any faster than well tuned mechanical but with no effort. $700, 300 for the brakes and 400 for the system. Pretty pleased on first impressions.




I had to get TRP Hylex RS brakes to make it work. They are a huge improvement over the SRAM.
I think I’ll end up with a shorter stem to make the longer hoods fit.
It shifts great. Not necessarily any faster than well tuned mechanical but with no effort. $700, 300 for the brakes and 400 for the system. Pretty pleased on first impressions.