Climbing Dirt Roads and Singletrack
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Redlands, CA
Posts: 6,313
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 842 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
250 Posts
Climbing Dirt Roads and Singletrack
Hello all!
For the past few weeks I've been eyeing cross bikes. Our area has several mountain ranges with some awesome climbs, and while I love riding on the road, these trails have been calling me. Most of these are fire roads but some are singletrack. I'd prefer to get a cross bike since I'd also be interested in racing this fall. Are cross bikes feasable going up 6-10% dirt roads with 1k to 7k of gain, or do I need the traction of a mountain bike?
For the past few weeks I've been eyeing cross bikes. Our area has several mountain ranges with some awesome climbs, and while I love riding on the road, these trails have been calling me. Most of these are fire roads but some are singletrack. I'd prefer to get a cross bike since I'd also be interested in racing this fall. Are cross bikes feasable going up 6-10% dirt roads with 1k to 7k of gain, or do I need the traction of a mountain bike?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: MN.
Posts: 239
Bikes: A MTB and something else with 2 pedals.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
A Cx would work good. I'm putting together a flat bar one with a 10x2 system. 40/28T front with a 11-36 cassette. That gives me 3.64 to 1 at the top and .77 to 1 ratio at the bottom. You may want it a little taller at the top for racing but yes, the gearing and the tire styles are all there. Just about anything is possible.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 332
Bikes: '09 Gary Fisher "Kaitai, '09 Raleigh Team", '91 Trek 8700, '97 Cannondale SR500, '12 Raleigh Twin Six
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My cross bike works just fine for the conditions you've described as well as some conditions that many would argue warrants a mtb with fat tyres.
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times
in
129 Posts
Do these trails and fire roads have a good amount of rocks, roots, and are they twisty? Lastly, how is it coming back down? I think those factors weigh more heavily on deciding the type of bike than elevation gain. My gravel and cx bike do well in places that are not too technical...otherwise my mountain bike is definitely best for pure singletrack.
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Redlands, CA
Posts: 6,313
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 842 Post(s)
Liked 469 Times
in
250 Posts
Do these trails and fire roads have a good amount of rocks, roots, and are they twisty? Lastly, how is it coming back down? I think those factors weigh more heavily on deciding the type of bike than elevation gain. My gravel and cx bike do well in places that are not too technical...otherwise my mountain bike is definitely best for pure singletrack.
The biggest danger is the descent, but I'm not to care how slow I go down the hill. For me, going up is the challenge
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 454
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Just keep in mind that your speed can easily "get away from you" on steep descents. I'd also strongly recommend that you try to avoid riding down hills that you haven't first peddled and/or walked you're way up.
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 59
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Climbs, gravel, dirt, sand, mud...I can do all of that well on my CX. Large Rocks and stumps? NO
I have found that tires and air pressure are extremely important to the terrain you are riding with a CX bike!
I have found that tires and air pressure are extremely important to the terrain you are riding with a CX bike!
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 947
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 286 Post(s)
Liked 262 Times
in
129 Posts
I have what I deem a gravel bike that is suited mainly for gravel roads and rail trails (32mm tires with some tread, no knobbies; rim brakes). When I lower pressures I can float over larger gravel/rocks and pot holes I can't avoid. I have a cross bike with 40mm tires and disk brakes, and with a lower pressures that bike can do ok in anything more technical.
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Hello,
I am planning to get a new bike, and while one friend is pushing me to get a 29-er, there's another friend that convinced me that a CX will do just fine unless I'm riding up in the mountains or doing downhill or something else hardcore I am a recreational biker with a bit of sport attitude (but no plans to race), having lots of hilly area around, but it's not really mountains. Lots of woods with singletracks and lots of offroad to explore. While I believe that getting a 29-er would be also just fine, I am tempted to get a CX for a bit more challenge.
Now, yesterday I took my current XC/MTB bike for a ride off the city, and while 80% was paved road, I had quite a steep climb up on a singletrack in the woods, according to Strava the max grade was 11-12% - I was fighting the hill on my slowest gears, 28T in front and 30T in the back.
I know my form sucks at the moment, but the only concern I have about getting the CX bike is that the crankset/casette is usually geared towards slightly less aggressive hills. I am now looking at bikes with triple crankset and a casette with those "MTB" gears. I could find Pinnacle Arkose Three with front 34T/back 28T, and Giant Anyroad 2 with front 30T/back 32T. In here CX is not so popular so the only bike I could actually try was the Giant, and as you can see on the picture it is quite comfortable indeed with quite long headtube (it would need tire replacement for wider ones, but it has plenty of clearance for those).
Which one should I aim for, having the crankset with smallest possible cog, or the casette with biggest possible cog?
Most CX bikes have cranksets with 36T and casettes with max of 30T...
Should I even worry about this? I can always carry, it's CX after all
Thanks!
Tom
PS. sorry for digging up an old thread, but realized it's better than writing a new one with similar subject..
I am planning to get a new bike, and while one friend is pushing me to get a 29-er, there's another friend that convinced me that a CX will do just fine unless I'm riding up in the mountains or doing downhill or something else hardcore I am a recreational biker with a bit of sport attitude (but no plans to race), having lots of hilly area around, but it's not really mountains. Lots of woods with singletracks and lots of offroad to explore. While I believe that getting a 29-er would be also just fine, I am tempted to get a CX for a bit more challenge.
Now, yesterday I took my current XC/MTB bike for a ride off the city, and while 80% was paved road, I had quite a steep climb up on a singletrack in the woods, according to Strava the max grade was 11-12% - I was fighting the hill on my slowest gears, 28T in front and 30T in the back.
I know my form sucks at the moment, but the only concern I have about getting the CX bike is that the crankset/casette is usually geared towards slightly less aggressive hills. I am now looking at bikes with triple crankset and a casette with those "MTB" gears. I could find Pinnacle Arkose Three with front 34T/back 28T, and Giant Anyroad 2 with front 30T/back 32T. In here CX is not so popular so the only bike I could actually try was the Giant, and as you can see on the picture it is quite comfortable indeed with quite long headtube (it would need tire replacement for wider ones, but it has plenty of clearance for those).
Which one should I aim for, having the crankset with smallest possible cog, or the casette with biggest possible cog?
Most CX bikes have cranksets with 36T and casettes with max of 30T...
Should I even worry about this? I can always carry, it's CX after all
Thanks!
Tom
PS. sorry for digging up an old thread, but realized it's better than writing a new one with similar subject..
#11
Pedalin' Erry Day
Tom, I would not pick a bike based on the stock gearing - focus on buying what fits you well and matches your quality and price requirements. Once you have something to ride it's a relatively small matter to change the cassette and/or chainrings to suit your preferences.
#12
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
A cross bike with a variety of tires will take a good cyclist up almost anything that a mtb can climb. Descending is another situation, a cross bike is not ideal on faster or highly technical descents.
I have added a triple crankset and can use 700x38 knobby tires on my CX bike. Climbing a 15% gravel road is do-able.
Tom, where do ride?
I have added a triple crankset and can use 700x38 knobby tires on my CX bike. Climbing a 15% gravel road is do-able.
Tom, where do ride?
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 06-01-14 at 12:12 PM.
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Tom, I would not pick a bike based on the stock gearing - focus on buying what fits you well and matches your quality and price requirements. Once you have something to ride it's a relatively small matter to change the cassette and/or chainrings to suit your preferences.
A cross bike with a variety of tires will take a good cyclist up almost anything that a mtb can climb. Descending is another situation, a cross bike is not ideal on faster or highly technical descents. I have added a triple crankset and can use 700x38 knobby tires on my CX bike. Climbing a 15% gravel road is do-able. Tom, where do ride?
I am in Lesser Poland, here's the trip I mentioned Bike Ride Profile | Las Zabierzowski near Krakow | Times and Records | Strava
Thanks!
Tom
#14
Have bike, will travel
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Lake Geneva, WI
Posts: 12,284
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 910 Post(s)
Liked 288 Times
in
158 Posts
I hope I will eventually be able to do that ascent on my future CX
I am in Lesser Poland, here's the trip I mentioned Bike Ride Profile | Las Zabierzowski near Krakow | Times and Records | Strava
Thanks!
Tom
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
#16
Well-worn roadie
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Colorado Front Range
Posts: 22
Bikes: Seven Elium SL, Specialized Tricross Elite Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Now, yesterday I took my current XC/MTB bike for a ride off the city, and while 80% was paved road, I had quite a steep climb up on a singletrack in the woods, according to Strava the max grade was 11-12% - I was fighting the hill on my slowest gears, 28T in front and 30T in the back.
I know my form sucks at the moment, but the only concern I have about getting the CX bike is that the crankset/casette is usually geared towards slightly less aggressive hills. I am now looking at bikes with triple crankset and a casette with those "MTB" gears. I could find Pinnacle Arkose Three with front 34T/back 28T, and Giant Anyroad 2 with front 30T/back 32T. In here CX is not so popular so the only bike I could actually try was the Giant, and as you can see on the picture it is quite comfortable indeed with quite long headtube (it would need tire replacement for wider ones, but it has plenty of clearance for those).
I know my form sucks at the moment, but the only concern I have about getting the CX bike is that the crankset/casette is usually geared towards slightly less aggressive hills. I am now looking at bikes with triple crankset and a casette with those "MTB" gears. I could find Pinnacle Arkose Three with front 34T/back 28T, and Giant Anyroad 2 with front 30T/back 32T. In here CX is not so popular so the only bike I could actually try was the Giant, and as you can see on the picture it is quite comfortable indeed with quite long headtube (it would need tire replacement for wider ones, but it has plenty of clearance for those).
Q: What's the difference between a cyclocross bike and a gravel bike?
A: Folks who do gravel grinders want to ride their bikes, not carry them.
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
If you feel 28/30 is too tall for what you want to ride, then buying a bike with a 34/28 low gear would be a big mistake. There's nothing you can do about that 34 tooth chainring because a compact crank won't take a smaller one. You'd have to replace the whole crank, and there aren't a lot of choices that will allow you to keep your brifters. I was in the same situation, and ended up buying a rare and very expensive Sugino 0X801D crankset to solve the problem. I ordered the crank as a 44-30, and now have a 30/32 low end, which is roughly equivalent to what you have today. I think the same crankset can be ordered as a 26-40, which would probably make you happy. But who wants to spend an extra $300-400 to make a brand new bike usable?
I am waiting for some more info and availablitiy from a used bike seller, so far I don't know much except that there will be some Wilier and Colnago, I checked specs of those from past years and I don't think they will have the gears I'm after but who knows, I need to wait for now.
#18
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 8
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Guys, what do you think of this bike?
I was talking to a seller about another CX bike and he told me he has another one which he wants to sell, it's great albeit for a more serious price ($2000):
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xznsbtsra...VxMgs2TGUYgzka
I love it, the casette is 11-36, but the crankset is a single 42T... If this had a nice double or a triple, I would seriously consider it.
Cheers!
I was talking to a seller about another CX bike and he told me he has another one which he wants to sell, it's great albeit for a more serious price ($2000):
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/xznsbtsra...VxMgs2TGUYgzka
I love it, the casette is 11-36, but the crankset is a single 42T... If this had a nice double or a triple, I would seriously consider it.
Cheers!
#19
Banned
They set it up for Cyclo cross racing ...single ring stuff is another recurrent trend. ..
You can change parts .. or pay someone to do it for you, if shopping is all you can manage.
red is a fast color.
You can change parts .. or pay someone to do it for you, if shopping is all you can manage.
red is a fast color.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: New madrid Mo
Posts: 163
Bikes: diamondback outlook turned commuter/ bike packer And a tour easy recumbent for on road touring
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I use a stock mtn bike 11 28 on back an 28 38 48 on front and I climb fine and descend just as good but I am not that experienced. So I half to be a little more vigilant as to the terrain changes. And my bike loves single track mud not sand though. Im running semi knobby got some but not as much as some tires do and it does fine on most terrain .Have not rock hopped yet and don't plan to either I am not even close to that yet .
#21
Senior Member
Another gearing option would be to use a mountain cassette and rear derailliuer. 36 -12 is a popular one, in either 9 or 10sp.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HiImSean
Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational)
11
09-26-11 10:36 PM