throttle control wires on controller.
04-18-10 | 07:19 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
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throttle control wires on controller.
hi i have a 36v controller with red green and black x3 my question is how do i know witch set of three to use for the throttle ? have a meter for checking volts etc if that can determine anything. cheers crimsonsnake
04-19-10 | 02:43 AM
#5
eBiker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 152
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From: Toronto
Bikes: CCM Moutain bike fitted with 408 Crystalyte motor, 48V 12 AH battery, 20 amp 48 v Crystalyte controller
Some controllers have a fourth pin which is the battery's full voltage. make sure you identify that one.
A multimeter could come in handy.
in your case you are describing only three wires, so i would theorise that you only have a ground, +5v and the wiper which is 0 to 5v, just as CowTownPeddler mentioned.
The way it works: the throttle receives a stead +5volts from the controller through one wire, that potential diference is realise by having a ground from the throttle to the controller. When you twist the throttle, a wiper moves across the resistor's length and modifies the resistance on the circuit and therefore returns a percentage of the +5volts back to the controller. The controller then interprets that range: 0volts as no power to the motor and +5 volts as maximum power. If you have a cycle analyst you can actually fine tune this range as not all controllers will give out exactly 5volts (you may read 4.5 volts as maximum .. but ususally it's around that valu of ~ 5 volts. )
Here's how I know about this. While upgrading from a 48 to 72 volt setup, I blew my controller and the throttle and everything along that circuit. So, I got a new controller, but my throttle was dead, so had to improvise. So I went to the electronics shop and got me a variable resistor, comes in the form of a dial which has three pins.
In my case , I had a fourth wire on my new controller, lucky me. One of those pins is the full voltage of the battery. MAKE SURE YOU IDENTIFY THAT ONE.
* I made sure to stear clear of the one that had the full voltage across the battery.
The voltages on those three other pins is quite small (provided you stear clear the above *). So I connected the throttle pins to those of the controller , and tried every combination amongst those three pins until it worked, (again making sure to stay away from the fourth pin on the controller). And it worked! In my case the controller's wires were not coded the same way as the throttle's.
My controller is a digital one from crystalyte, high power 72 volts, 35amps.
The colours on that one are : RED, ORANGE, YELLOW, WHITE. *White is the full battery voltage. I stayed away from that one.
So in my case, i connected my throttle this way:
THROTTLE --> CONTROLLER
------------- ----------------
RED --> RED
YELLOW --> ORANGE
GREEN (wiper/throttle) --> YELLOW
Hope that helps.
A multimeter could come in handy.
in your case you are describing only three wires, so i would theorise that you only have a ground, +5v and the wiper which is 0 to 5v, just as CowTownPeddler mentioned.
The way it works: the throttle receives a stead +5volts from the controller through one wire, that potential diference is realise by having a ground from the throttle to the controller. When you twist the throttle, a wiper moves across the resistor's length and modifies the resistance on the circuit and therefore returns a percentage of the +5volts back to the controller. The controller then interprets that range: 0volts as no power to the motor and +5 volts as maximum power. If you have a cycle analyst you can actually fine tune this range as not all controllers will give out exactly 5volts (you may read 4.5 volts as maximum .. but ususally it's around that valu of ~ 5 volts. )
Here's how I know about this. While upgrading from a 48 to 72 volt setup, I blew my controller and the throttle and everything along that circuit. So, I got a new controller, but my throttle was dead, so had to improvise. So I went to the electronics shop and got me a variable resistor, comes in the form of a dial which has three pins.
In my case , I had a fourth wire on my new controller, lucky me. One of those pins is the full voltage of the battery. MAKE SURE YOU IDENTIFY THAT ONE.
* I made sure to stear clear of the one that had the full voltage across the battery.
The voltages on those three other pins is quite small (provided you stear clear the above *). So I connected the throttle pins to those of the controller , and tried every combination amongst those three pins until it worked, (again making sure to stay away from the fourth pin on the controller). And it worked! In my case the controller's wires were not coded the same way as the throttle's.
My controller is a digital one from crystalyte, high power 72 volts, 35amps.
The colours on that one are : RED, ORANGE, YELLOW, WHITE. *White is the full battery voltage. I stayed away from that one.
So in my case, i connected my throttle this way:
THROTTLE --> CONTROLLER
------------- ----------------
RED --> RED
YELLOW --> ORANGE
GREEN (wiper/throttle) --> YELLOW
Hope that helps.
04-20-10 | 11:09 PM
#7
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3
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From: under your chair
04-21-10 | 02:55 AM
#8
eBiker
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
From: Toronto
Bikes: CCM Moutain bike fitted with 408 Crystalyte motor, 48V 12 AH battery, 20 amp 48 v Crystalyte controller
i have a $100 ccm mountain bike from walmart,now fitted with 5304 crystalyte motor
i blew component when i upgraded from 48 to 72 volts but did not upgrade my controller.
controller was rated for 48 volts. the key is to have the right controller for the battery setup.
also,if you're putting batteries in series, you need to protect the bms of each battery with a diode,
i blew component when i upgraded from 48 to 72 volts but did not upgrade my controller.
controller was rated for 48 volts. the key is to have the right controller for the battery setup.
also,if you're putting batteries in series, you need to protect the bms of each battery with a diode,
Last edited by alfonsopilato; 04-21-10 at 03:01 AM.
