controller setup Q and wheel
03-05-13, 09:23 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
controller setup Q and wheel
Hi Need some help here please. Probably heard this a thousand time (sorry)
But recently been given a cytronex ebike battery controller and the wiring.
Battery and charger had been sent away and is ok.
there seems to be no voltage to the wires that would connect to the wheel, so i presume the motor was faulty or
the controller is.
Couple of question, just need to keep it simple. Although mechanicaly adept electronics no chance...
1/ If i use the wires from battery (thick red and black wire thinish yellow, and connect to new controller with throttle.
China £20 these look very simple setups ebay 251219705713... there are other wires but i presume these are linked to lights and pedlec sensors that were on the
previous bike. which i dont need...
2/ buy a 36v electric brushless hub motor. i wire the blue yellow and green to the hub etc
Will this power the bike or do am i nisssin in the wind.
any info would be appreciated. if none of this is possible to do etc, could i buy a ebike kit
and be able to use the battery.
I;ve been lookin on a lot of forums but seem to be goin round n round... lol...
Cheers scott, skint Painter & decorator UK
The bike was a cytronex
battery 36v mimh bottle type.
But recently been given a cytronex ebike battery controller and the wiring.
Battery and charger had been sent away and is ok.
there seems to be no voltage to the wires that would connect to the wheel, so i presume the motor was faulty or
the controller is.
Couple of question, just need to keep it simple. Although mechanicaly adept electronics no chance...
1/ If i use the wires from battery (thick red and black wire thinish yellow, and connect to new controller with throttle.
China £20 these look very simple setups ebay 251219705713... there are other wires but i presume these are linked to lights and pedlec sensors that were on the
previous bike. which i dont need...
2/ buy a 36v electric brushless hub motor. i wire the blue yellow and green to the hub etc
Will this power the bike or do am i nisssin in the wind.
any info would be appreciated. if none of this is possible to do etc, could i buy a ebike kit
and be able to use the battery.
I;ve been lookin on a lot of forums but seem to be goin round n round... lol...
Cheers scott, skint Painter & decorator UK
The bike was a cytronex
battery 36v mimh bottle type.
03-05-13, 01:43 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 454
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Welcome to the Bike Forums Scot,
First, I highly recommend that you obtain/download any and all maintenance/troubleshooting/owner's guides for your particular model from Cytronex. These guides, and the info within, should be strictly followed for best results.
Second, can you give us the model and/or serial numbers of your system components? This info can be very useful to us.
Ok, so if I understand you correctly, you've got a NIMH (Nickel–metal hydride) battery and charger that evidently check out to be "Ok" (you seem to indicate that you sent them out to be tested...). You also have a controller that may, or may not be good. A "no voltage to the wires that would connect to the wheel" would, in most cases, indicate a blown fuse, improper battery voltage (i.e. too high or too low), bad wire connections (loose/disconnected, dirty, etc) bad wires (severed conductors, worn insulation, etc) and/or a bad controller. Bad ebike components (i.e. controllers and motors) will sometimes have a "burnt" smell to them).
So lets start at the start:
1. What is the battery voltage after you've fully charged it?
Note: 36 volt NIMH batteries normally have "working" voltage of about 36 and a peak (freshly charged) voltage that should never exceed 43v. A good freshly charged 36v NIMH battery should have between 37-39 volts (anything less than 36 volts could indicate a bad cell or cells). Also note that many NIMH batteries have a short (unused) shelf life of only about 2 years. These batteries also have a relatively short "usage" life of only a few hundred "charge/discharge" cycles. This is why such batteries have been largely replaced by newer battery chemistry types (i.e. LifePo4, Lipo, etc). 2. Are there any fuses in the system wires and/or battery and, if so, are they good? 3. Are the system wires in good shape and are all of the connections clean and tight?
Here's a link that explains different battery chemistry types:
https://ebikes.ca/batteries.shtml
All right, let's get down to the nitty-gritty shall we?
The truth is that you (imo) would probably be better off with an entirely new, and up-to-date, ebike power system. I say this because NIMH batteries have more than a few shortcomings when used in ebikes (short shelf and cycle/use life, low C output ratings, charging hazards, etc, etc). This is not to mention that your existing controller may be bad...
The bottom line here is that a new ebike power system could save you a lot of time and money in the long run (that is, unless you enjoy working on ebike power $ystems...).
Btw, here's a link that you might find interesting:
https://ebikes.ca/faq.shtml
HTH
First, I highly recommend that you obtain/download any and all maintenance/troubleshooting/owner's guides for your particular model from Cytronex. These guides, and the info within, should be strictly followed for best results.
Second, can you give us the model and/or serial numbers of your system components? This info can be very useful to us.
Ok, so if I understand you correctly, you've got a NIMH (Nickel–metal hydride) battery and charger that evidently check out to be "Ok" (you seem to indicate that you sent them out to be tested...). You also have a controller that may, or may not be good. A "no voltage to the wires that would connect to the wheel" would, in most cases, indicate a blown fuse, improper battery voltage (i.e. too high or too low), bad wire connections (loose/disconnected, dirty, etc) bad wires (severed conductors, worn insulation, etc) and/or a bad controller. Bad ebike components (i.e. controllers and motors) will sometimes have a "burnt" smell to them).
So lets start at the start:
1. What is the battery voltage after you've fully charged it?
Note: 36 volt NIMH batteries normally have "working" voltage of about 36 and a peak (freshly charged) voltage that should never exceed 43v. A good freshly charged 36v NIMH battery should have between 37-39 volts (anything less than 36 volts could indicate a bad cell or cells). Also note that many NIMH batteries have a short (unused) shelf life of only about 2 years. These batteries also have a relatively short "usage" life of only a few hundred "charge/discharge" cycles. This is why such batteries have been largely replaced by newer battery chemistry types (i.e. LifePo4, Lipo, etc). 2. Are there any fuses in the system wires and/or battery and, if so, are they good? 3. Are the system wires in good shape and are all of the connections clean and tight?
Here's a link that explains different battery chemistry types:
https://ebikes.ca/batteries.shtml
All right, let's get down to the nitty-gritty shall we?
The truth is that you (imo) would probably be better off with an entirely new, and up-to-date, ebike power system. I say this because NIMH batteries have more than a few shortcomings when used in ebikes (short shelf and cycle/use life, low C output ratings, charging hazards, etc, etc). This is not to mention that your existing controller may be bad...
The bottom line here is that a new ebike power system could save you a lot of time and money in the long run (that is, unless you enjoy working on ebike power $ystems...).
Btw, here's a link that you might find interesting:
https://ebikes.ca/faq.shtml
HTH
03-05-13, 03:02 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
thanks for quick reply. Battery reads 44.8v been sat for few days after charge. All connectors are spotless and tight. opened up the controler and all looks good no bad burnt smells. charger is like new. unfortunatly the info (sticker) on the controller is gone.
ive been looking into the cyclonex ebike, allthough good quality bike etc it seems that everthing is designed intergrated for that particular bike, if that makes sense.... if it had been a kit might have been easier to match up. Think your right im looking into buying a kit of ebay and at least i will now it all matches lol...
this is a bit out my league for my expertise
was hoping i might have been able to use the battery to save some money though
...
cheers scott
ive been looking into the cyclonex ebike, allthough good quality bike etc it seems that everthing is designed intergrated for that particular bike, if that makes sense.... if it had been a kit might have been easier to match up. Think your right im looking into buying a kit of ebay and at least i will now it all matches lol...
this is a bit out my league for my expertise
was hoping i might have been able to use the battery to save some money though
...cheers scott
03-05-13, 03:57 PM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 454
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Ya, making use of your existing battery sounds like a good idea...
The problem is this: where do you start if you have problems with your new gear and "old" battery?
I can also tell you from experience that electronic/electric part A can ruin electronic/electric part B can ruin electronic/electric part C can ruin electronic/electric part A (I've seen this vicious "chain of failures" rack up tremendous repair bills in both the automotive/motorcycle and computer repair fields). Often the only reliable answer to this "chain of failures" is to replace components A, B, and C at exactly same time.
And yes, some ebike conversion kit/manufacturers do utilize integrated components (which is also sometimes known as "proprietary" design and/or construction). This can be both a blessing and a curse...
Keep in mind that some, if not many, of the lower cost ebike conversion kits are supplied with less than adequate installation instruction guides. Some are down-right horrible (but you probably already know this). Anyway, we might be able to help you get through any "what the heck is the manufacturer talking about" and/or "what wire goes where" type of questions.
Anyway, good luck with your ebike project. Btw, feel free to ask any questions about which kits and types or brands of bikes are best suited for everyday conversions, etc, etc.
The problem is this: where do you start if you have problems with your new gear and "old" battery?
I can also tell you from experience that electronic/electric part A can ruin electronic/electric part B can ruin electronic/electric part C can ruin electronic/electric part A (I've seen this vicious "chain of failures" rack up tremendous repair bills in both the automotive/motorcycle and computer repair fields). Often the only reliable answer to this "chain of failures" is to replace components A, B, and C at exactly same time.
And yes, some ebike conversion kit/manufacturers do utilize integrated components (which is also sometimes known as "proprietary" design and/or construction). This can be both a blessing and a curse...
Anyway, good luck with your ebike project. Btw, feel free to ask any questions about which kits and types or brands of bikes are best suited for everyday conversions, etc, etc.
03-05-13, 04:29 PM
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 454
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Sorry, forgot to add this bit:
NiMH batteries can sometimes take a full charge that seems to indicate that they're still good. However, this "full charge" will often last for only a few miles, or minutes, before they're flat again. This is usually due to old age, miss-use (i.e. over-charging, etc), or too many use cycles.
NiMH batteries can sometimes take a full charge that seems to indicate that they're still good. However, this "full charge" will often last for only a few miles, or minutes, before they're flat again. This is usually due to old age, miss-use (i.e. over-charging, etc), or too many use cycles.
