Quemazon, I think any light can irritate oncoming drivers if it's pointed too high. If you use a 55W (same as car light intensity,) point it low. You're moving slower than cars anyway, so you should have more than enough light to see obstacles in the dark.

That's a truth. You'd think a 4.5 AH SLA would give you twice the run time of a 2.3 AH. But when you put a heavy drain (20W) on a 2.3 AH battery, your run time was only 40 minutes, while the 4.5 AH will give you about 2 hours.

SLA's don't like a fast drain. By the same token, they don't like a fast charge. So a smaller battery will not tolerate the same charger that a larger battery can use quite safely.

In either case, whether draining a battery, or charging it, too fast, the battery's capacity begins to dwindle. Make sure you get a charger that doesn't charge the battery too quickly for it's capacity. Also be sure not to run your battery so low that the light goes yellow (at least, not too often.)

Fortunately, SLA's are cheap compared to NiCd's and others. If you ruin one, you can get another for the price of pizza (but don't do it--waste pizza money on a battery, that is!)

LittleBigMan

I bought 4 single-wire amber trailer BeeHives (3.99 each) for the turn signals. Might be able to get away with just 2. We'll see.

For your various lights, did you wire them in a series? If so, do they all funnel down to 2 connection (pos and neg) to the battery? Or does each light have it's own connection to the battery?

vrkelley, how are you making your turn signals blink? I bought a 2 contact turn signal relay last night at AutoZone, but when I run the power for the LED turn light through it, the light didn't blick. I don't know if I had it setup wrong or if the LED was not drawing enough power to cause the relay to activate. Anybody have any suggestions on how to make low amp LEDs blink?

BTW, I got the low-cost LEDs in the mail yesterday. They were removed from a highway infomation signs, and have both red and yellow/green LEDs which can be powered seperately (I was thinking running/turning/stop light options). 10 for $12.50 at BG Micro on-line; look for sign language. They appear to be new or fairly new and should be bright enough for the job. I'll report back when I get them installed.

MapTester,
Mine's not hooked up cuz, I couldn't figure out how to waterproof-seal the contact points. It's a basic flasher like the one pictured (except mine has battery, Pos, and Neg)

The bulbs are just the regular trailer bulbs (and no amp rating on the bulb!). I went low-tech, cuz shop owners didn't seem to know how to answer my basic questions and it was time to get going on this.

I used 1½ “ PVC pipe to do essentially the same thing in order to give my headlights flashing capabilities. Reference post #173-179 on this thread.

OhioOH,

RE: Post #173 (page 7), You're a genius! I can probably stuff the flasher inside one hive. If not, your PVC idea will work a-OK!

LittleBigMan,
Next to Ohio's old post, you mentioned that you switched to Auto Zone LED hives because, regular bulbs drew too much power. No AutoZones around here. So what sort of mounting bracket did those come with?

VR, make sure the flasher works with LED lights. Regular flasher units won't because they require a certain load. There area flasher units that will work with LEDs.

Kudos for salvaging old but capable equipment. A slightly more modern variation is to use one of those multimeters that has serial ouput. I have one from radio shack that cost $50. Automating the whole charge, discharge routine would be cool, but a lot work. I used to trickle charge all of my cells, then discharge them one by one with a 1 ohm power resistor, and monitor the voltage on the computer. I would then overlay all of the current vs. time plots, and could easily pick off matching cells. Going through multiple cycles, though was a lot of work!

I finally broke down and purchased a Triton battery charger. I never thought I'd pay $120 for a charger, but it was worth every penny. I'm a rechargeable battery junkie with everything from nicad and NIMH to LION and SLA. It handles them all very well. Now I just pop a cell onto the triton and tell it to cycle 4 or 5 times and it tells me the capacity and average discharge voltage at a given current. I can then match it to other cells or toss it in the recycle bin.

Don't get me wrong, though, working out a custom battery carger/cycler would be really cool and if you have the time and patience to work it out, you would have complete control over the charging process. Good luck, and keep us posted.

Hi all!
been reading these posts I am pumbped about building my own system..
quick question for the field. i didn't find any comments on this in the threds, so here goes:

Has anyone tried to use a LED-cluster headlight instead of the single halogen spot that everyone seems to be using?

This company:

https://www.superbrightle ds.com/cgi-bin/store/commerce.cgi?product=MR16

..sells a MR16 size lights with a cluster of 24 LEDs that can output the same as a 20watt halogen but use a fraction of the power...

I'm thinking it might be possible to build a killer system with 2 of these babys one on spot, and 1 on flood and an array of NiMH batteries built into a bottle cage..

thoughts?

See post 381 on this thread. I did try the cluster as well:

(MR16-WHO White LED bulb
MR16 bulb with 6 High Output White LEDs
12 Volt AC or DC operation
60 Degree Beam Pattern, draws 200ma @ 12VDC )

But had problems with getting it to work through my flasher. I didn’t pursue it real hard after field tests showed the beam was too wide.

Rainman is right, you do need to be careful. There is a rating on the flasher. The one I have is 2 amps and works fine with my 1 watt LED headlight, unlike the 20 amp one I tried to use.

Eric, look back a couple of pages. I tried an MR16 replacement with 48 LEDs and was not impressed enough to continue using it. However, the LEDs did not seem to be particularly high intensity so the ones from SuperbrightLEDs might be much better. If anyone has or plans to try the ones from SuperbrightLEDs let me know. I will send this bulb for comparison. In fact if anyone wants it I will send it anyway - free to good home. The light is certainly more than the small Cateye headlights. It doesn't seem any brighter than the Cateye EL300 5-LED light, but it covers more area so I guess it does put out "more" light in total.

EricMorin, I use a LED cluster just as a backup and a "be seen" light.

Ohio, Did you use Ohm's law to figure out which flasher? like R = V/I (Resistance = Volts/Amps)?? I'm going to probably go with the Low Tech turns signals because Auto-Zone doesn't seem to see the LED Hives online.

No I'm not that smart. I just went to the auto store and bought the lowest amp one I could find that would fit into the PVC pipe.

You might check https://superbrightleds.com/led_prods.htm the LED Truck Lights section for a nice LED.

I'm gonna try it.. maybe combine the 10 deg. spot and the flood.. sure, if you want to send me the light for comparison.. private Msg me and we'll hook up.
-e

Just make sure you vote.

Eric,
That would be perfect. If you are going to set up two lights you can give us a report, perhaps a pic of the two beams on a wall side by side. PM or email me your address and I will send the lamp.
Regards,
Raymond

Each device has it's own connection to the battery. That way, if one device fails, the rest still operate.

VR,
I think you mean parallel. My setup for instance has one set of wires coming off the battery, P and N. Then there is a Y off the P and Y off the N with one each P and N going to the taillight and one each to the headlight. If you had two headlights you would have another set of Ys, even if you wanted them switched on and off together. Series would have one continuous loop from battery to light to light back to battery with no Ys. I'm pretty sure the former is the preferred method. That's pretty much how houses are wired.
Regards,
Raymond

Update on the turn signal flasher project. I got a small clearance-type light last night and hooked it up with the LED lights and the flasher unit (Triton EL12, variable load, two contacts, works in forward or reverse polarity). Combined they draw enough current to get the flasher to work. So this weekend I will try to get the whole system installed and working. The clearance light will be mounted near the switch to show that the signal lights are on--sure don't want to ride down the road with my blinkers going and me being unaware.

Maptester,
Awesome! How did you know which flasher unit would work on the LEDs?

I was afraid someone was going ask! I thought I read about it here, but I can't seem to find the exact place. I know I did some searchs for motorcycle LED flasher and found some links/threads where they are having the same problems we have--that the replacement LEDs don't draw enough amps to make the flasher work. Some recommend using a resistor to draw enough power, but they get hot and that means wasted power (which I don't have). Then somewhere else someone used one regular light (LittleBigMan?) and the flasher worked. If I understand correctly, inside the flasher is a bimetal strip that heats up when current is applied. When it reaches a certain temp, it bends and breaks the circuit. Then it cools and bends back to complete the circuit. I saw some total electronic flashers that work with just LEDs, but they start at $20 and go up from there. The flasher I have cost $8.

A couple logic chips and a transistor should make an LED blink in any old pattern/speed you can dream up, without wasting too many electrons.

Map Tester,
Sorry, I didn't answer this sooner. See post ~#223-226 for brake sensor info, pictures, and urls to buy. When I had my brake lights on my (stolen) bike. They worked great. No slip ups or lights stuck in the ON position problems.

The brake switch is automatic when you press the brake lever. But if you need room for other switches, maybe a narrow aluminum bar to suspend the switches below the handle bars would work.