Advice needed: tail light wiring?
#1
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Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Advice needed: tail light wiring?
What's the best way to install taillight wiring from a rear-wheel bottle dyno to an LED taillight mounted on the rear fender? Glue, tape, use the fender internal metal as power or return leads ... ?
I have Zefal plastic/metal sandwich fenders.
I have Zefal plastic/metal sandwich fenders.
#2
17yrold in 64yrold body
Joined: May 2010
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From: Northern CA
I would find some heat-shrink tubing that matches the color of your fenders, run both wires through it, shrink it, and attach with small blobs of silicone. By using a hot lead AND a ground wire, you will pretty much eliminate the problem of flakey grounds causing problems with operation.
#3
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8
Silicone, you mean RTV? I wouldn't think that's strong enough for a pretty permanent installation.
On the taillight, I'm planning to run the return current throught fender stay, which is bolted to the dropout and seatstay, where the bottle dyno is mounted. I'm not real worried about the tail ground, though the return wire is the most reliable approach. But on the headlight, the ground runs through tthe headset, and I think that's perhaps a little less reliable than the chainstay, even though it works now.
On the taillight, I'm planning to run the return current throught fender stay, which is bolted to the dropout and seatstay, where the bottle dyno is mounted. I'm not real worried about the tail ground, though the return wire is the most reliable approach. But on the headlight, the ground runs through tthe headset, and I think that's perhaps a little less reliable than the chainstay, even though it works now.
#4
17yrold in 64yrold body
Joined: May 2010
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From: Northern CA
A 'dollop' of silicone when dry will be pretty permanent. As far as 'frame ground' vs ground wire, you will only find out how good your frame ground works when you are miles from home, and the lights start to mysteriously flicker. As a new install, I would run the 'extra' wire for longevity's sake. And peace of mind, of course.
#5
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
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What about attaching the wire on the tire side of the fender rather than the outer side of the fender?
#6
Randomhead
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
tire side is traditional, usually there is a lip that will allow extra gluing surface. I would also run two wires, I really don't think you'll be happy long with frame return. The zefals aren't made to carry current, are they? Some of the old Esge fenders had conductors molded in.
#7
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
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There are three metal strips embedded in the plastic, but no provision is made for termination to the light or to external leads that would jump to the gen. I'd have to carve off a lot of plastic, with the risk of finding metal that is hard to solder or just plain fragile.
I just took off the fender. I'm gonna give the inside a good wash, drill access holes, mark the gluing area, and prepare to install a pair of wires using RTV.
Wife's Breezer seems to have turned-in lips which can be used as conduits for taillight wires. Not so the Zefals!
I just took off the fender. I'm gonna give the inside a good wash, drill access holes, mark the gluing area, and prepare to install a pair of wires using RTV.
Wife's Breezer seems to have turned-in lips which can be used as conduits for taillight wires. Not so the Zefals!
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