You could also secure wires with a dab of silicone. It's nearly invisible.

I read about something called "Racer's Tape", which is rock-resistant. I'm thinking of using it to secure my wires under the down tube, where the tape will protect it from rock strikes and other little issues. Could also use it to ascend the fork blade (I have a SON hub), head tube. My rear light will be wired under the fender, snaking the wire up from below the down tube. I haven't decided whether to run it over the BB or under. My new ROX-10 is all wireless so I won't need any wire there. Right now my headlight wire winds around the front rack struts (the bike is a rando), so I need to think that out, too.

I once had some clear plastic tape made for bookbinding, it was rather awesome, too.

There are also fine-gauge flat wires, where the wires are actually flat strips of copper and extruded together in a flat insulator. Attaching the push-connectors can be an issue, but it would fit flat to the bike frame.

I need to graduate from rows of zip-ties.

Works good for wires and other lightly stressed parts. I tape the wire to the frame, put a dab of silicon in various locations. Remove tape when slicon is dry. Had a fender that rattled where it went thru the forks. Shimmed the fender away from the contact point, made a tape reservoir then squeezed in a bit of silicon. A few hours later removed the shim and the silicon made a perfect virtually invisible gasket. No more annoying rattle.

Ooh, good tip, okane!

Thank you!!!! From a man with over 17000 posts I feel honored!!!!

Jeez, I wish my post count weren't displayed so prominently. I'm no smarter, just wordier.

Lots of good tips here guys. I think I'm just going to be using a pvc-like material wire loom I was able to find and thus run that along where one of the brake/shifter lines runs along the top of the frame. I can't run anything along the bottom because it would interfere with how the adjustable bracket for the seat moves. Any wiring would have to have a lose bit of slack built in and would have to hang down underneath the seat for a ways to allow fore/aft adjustment. At some point I may dial in the seating position and never need to move it, but I predict that will be a few months away. It's just going to be easier to run the wiring along the top of the frame and through these enlarged holes in the seat bracket that are made to accommodate the brake and shifter cables and housings.

Indeed!

Hilcopter tape - Its the best but expensive...

Amazon.com: ISC Racerstape.com Save Your Paint!!! surface guard tape 2"x12': Automotive

Veloria, from the Lovely Bicycle Blog wrote about, and included lots of pics, her obsessive, but very clean loking method here: Lovely Bicycle!: Aftermarket Dynamo Lights: a Clean Look

Clear duct tape if you can find it. It looks white on the roll but it is translucent so your base material will show through.

You mean like these? -

Amazon.com: Vktech 100pcs 11.8 Inches Stainless Steel Exhaust Wrap Coated Locking Cable Zip Ties: Home Improvement

I haven't used any yet, but I picked up a pack of these. They're about as bright and shiny as my girlfriends bare aluminum (ball burnished) GT frame.

I see the 8 reviews at Amazon are mixed about whether the ties actually hold -- but maybe 8 reviews are not enough to judge by.

Well, being a huge fan of Dynamos and not so much a fan of the wiring, I gave in and made the wiring a part of the design. Got this vintage twisted wiring and even using zip ties, it can enhance the look of certain bikes.

Awesome ideas on this thread - love the silicone/tape methods!!!

I didn't reread the reviews just now, but I remember reading them before ordering the steel zip ties and thinking to myself that sometimes Amazon reviews are closer to youtube comments. I suspect some of the reviewers had trouble operating zip ties! O.o

Is that cloth wrapped wiring? That IS vintage!

Oh WOW. I've been running those fenders for ages and never made the connection, so to speak. I did wonder why they had the clear spaces betwixt the aluminum strips. Thanks for that piece of information.

I use Bike Shield. Amazing stuff. Pretty much invisible once applied properly, which for me includes cleaning surface and fingers with alcool before.

Comes in Matte or Gloss (which I prefer) and there are different sizes. Expensive but worth it. It's tough too, as it's meant to protect frames. I also use it where tie wraps come into contact with the frame and as a screen protector on my Garmin.

This is the piece I use to cover the wire for the length of the stem and I have another piece under the top tube protecting/holding the wire going to the tail light.

Good to see replies still trickling in for this thread. I wired the dynamo up quite a while back and ended up routing the cable along the bottom of the main frame tube. I used plain clear packing tape to hold it in place with the intent of using a much higher quality 3M clear packing tape. Since then I've changed my mind and decided to use some Shimano Di2 wire loom to hold the wires in place where they run along the main frame tube. I received the Di2 stuff a couple weeks ago but haven't had time to put it on yet. I'll post back with my impressions regarding that option.

Me too. Seems durable enough. I don't love the idea of adding more holes to my bike!

Curious to hear your opinion on the Di2 stuff.

FWIW, my first Di2 installation used it. Held for 2 weeks before I started making holes in my frame to wire what I could internally. Changed the whole bike since for one with internal routing. Quite sexy.

I slid some housing liner over the Front shift cable and spiral wrapped around it, with the wires to the taillight ..
Cable still moves freely within the liner..


Planning a custom bike build ? consider this .. a special Schmidt hub and right fork dropout make the wiring connection with out a visible Plug.

SON SL

No extra steps, removing and reinstalling the wheel does everything ..