My carbon Mukluk is shockingly light. BUT:
- I have helicopter tape all over it to prevent bikepacking bags from abrading the clearcoat.
- It has small chips and contusions in multiple places that I can't remember how they got there - and I've babied it.
- It's started making creaking noises that I can't track down.
- It won't fit 5" tires, which sadly, I'll need on the kind of riding I'm aspiring to do.

I'm swapping it out for a heavier, more durable metal frame.
Low weight has a price that goes beyond just the monetary cost.

Wait, I was told that aluminum was lighter and stiffer than steel!!!

Used to like the surly frames, but they changed to horizontal dropouts and.... yuck

ICAN frame kit: 700 - frame, bars, seat post
Wren fork: 400 - half price sale.
ICAN wheels: 1000 DT Swiss 350 fat hubs Frame and wheels in a bundle ordered in Oct 2019, arrived. January 2020
Brakes: Formula 100 - ebay special OEM overstock
Group: SRAM: 200. -eBay
Tires: 100 Vee on eBay.

Sealant, Saddle and grips were on my shelf-o-jumk

As I said, stuff was bought in early 2020 before the pandemic bike boom was recognized. Yes, very lucky and some things have been replaced. I broke a brake MC and replaced with Hope brakes...
​​​

I have an aluminum AMX Patriot road bike in the basement that is amazingly heavy. Found it in a pawn shop, paid next to nothing. Originally sold (briefly) by Toys'R'Us, apparently.

My guess is that it was built with non-heat-treated low-grade aluminum.

Photo purloined from OfferUp:

No frame is necessarily lighter because of the material used. You can have a steel frame that is lighter than a carbon frame or vice versa or add aluminum or titanium into the mix and any of them can be lighter or heavier than the other depending on how it is constructed. Typically the average consumer frame from a major manufacturer is going to be rather heavy to account for a wide range of people riding the bike and added durability whereas a custom builder tuning the bike to your riding can make it lighter or heavier depending on the needs.

What would be BS?

It is lighter for sure. I'm sure the bike he mentioned has other components on it that make it so heavy at 39 lbs.

This is the other fat bike (hers) in my household. It was 32 lbs stock. After some upgrades to carbon bars, carbon seatpost, carbon wheels and tubeless...It's a bit lighter now.

I just weighed, straight from the store:

Northrock XCF - 16.8kg (~36lbs) - these only come in one size, 26x4 Kenda tires, 155mm square taper cranks.....

Louis Garneau Gros Louis 2 - 16.8kg (~36lbs) - this is a small - with 27.5x 4.5" Terrene Cake Eater studdable tires, 170mm SRAM cranks, has a dropper.

The two bikes fit very similarly. The Northrock is going back to the store.

Other 2 fatbikes in the house:

Mongoose Jasper 24x4" - 17.2kg (~38lbs) - I would love to get this lighter for the kiddo, but not a lot to be done, I don't think. This is probably his last year on it.

RSD Mayor with 26x4.8" - 15.1kg (~33lbs) - I was surprised it was this heavy. Probably one pound or so lighter similarly set up as the rest, as I weighed it with my pogies and everything still on it.

What bike do you got?

Forgot about this thread.

Mine's 38lb with all equipment installed and ready to ride.

Just a generic chinese made, sold under a national brand. Most of the components are mid range, the wheels are cheap. I use it, abuse it, then coddle it back to health.

The tires were puncture prone. Changed to Surly Knards

33 lbs L Kona Woo (w/pedals and pogies). I think the overall weight is okay but I feel like the stock tires (4.8" Vee Snowhoe/Avalanche) and tubes are taking more than their fair share of my effort.

Next winter I will run narrower, lighter (4" Jumbo Jim and tubeless).

Those tires are junk. Get rid of them as fast as you can.