I have decades of experience riding bikes with S-A and Sachs 3 speeds and Sachs/SRAM IGH 7 speed hubs. I don't know why some people have such difficulty taking the wheel on or off. Using a wrench (adjustable or fixed) to loosen the axle nuts adds perhaps 30 seconds to the task for a 3 speed. Loosening and reattaching and adjusting the gear shift chain perhaps one minute. The seven speed click box removal from axle requires taking the right axle nut off and putting it back on, perhaps one minute but doesn't require loosening or adjusting a gear shift change. Adjusting tension of the drive chain while tightening the wheel adds perhaps 10 seconds to the task.

Reasons why I like IGH:
1. Mine are equipped with coaster brakes which perform flawlessly with no maintenance after decades of use in all weather and temperature conditions and are 100% reliable when wet. Stories about alleged failures while riding the brakes during 4 mile descents and other similar scary tales do not have much impact on my more prosaic cycling activity. Allows me to keep a hand free of the handlebars to carry a drink, package or do whatever and still have brakes available. I used to ride a 1969 Raleigh Sprite that came equipped with a S-A 5 speed IGH which was a wonderful bike and hub but did not have coaster brakes so I did not keep it for a move overseas. It had two shifter cables so probably took an extra one or two minutes adjusting the cable tension when reassembling the rear wheel to the bike.
2. Can shift to appropriate gear while stopped.

If you want a pretty comprehensive comparison of nearly all of the available internal hubs go here: Internal-Gear Hubs You can compare gear ranges and even see how closely spaced the gears are on a particular hub.

I've used the SRAM dual-drive 3X8 and a Schlumpf Mountain Drive on a trike. The MD was nearly indestructible with only one minor repair in 27,000 miles while the SRAM dual-drive was much less robust. It originally came with the highly praised SACHS Spectro 7 3X8 and when that failed switched to SRAM DD which failed twice in the remaining mileage. One really big problem is finding someone who will fix one of these hubs. No bike shop in my town would fix the Spectro 7 and the cost of having it only partially rebuilt by the one rebuilder I was able to contact was nearly equal to buying a brand new DD. If it had been a complete rebuild with many new components it would have been worth it but the partial rebuild was only replacing the bearings. Things like pawls and springs which also wear would not be replaced. I tossed the wheel and bought a complete new rear wheel.

Yep, aware of the different ratios that are made, I was just interested in a particular Shimano 10 speed ratios IGH I had read a report about. Sorry for not being through enough for you, my apologies.

Bill

Well, the graphic really says it all, but here's some explanatory text from the Sheldon Brown web site:

'All current three-speeds except for the Sturmey-Archer S3X fixed-gear hub have a wide range, with big steps between all of the gears. The way bicycle manufacturers commonly set up three-speeds, the middle gear is too low for level-ground riding, to keep the top gear from being completely useless. A 3-speed hub will serve you much better if you install a larger rear sprocket or smaller chainwheel, and use the top gear on level terrain. The low and middle gears are then better for acceleration and climbing. If you spin out on downhills, then you can coast.

Sheldon disparaged coasting, but really, occasional coasting is better than struggling up hills and having no level-ground gear! The top gear with a 3-speed should usually be in the range between 70 and 80 gear inches (5.6 and 6.4 meters development, 5.0 to 6.0 gain ratio), depending on your strength and pedaling style -- say, a 46-tooth chainring and 22-tooth sprocket with a 26-inch rear wheel. If the terrain where you ride is all up and down, with little or no level ground, you may want even lower gears than that.'

Intriguing. Link?

Check ebay for your washers. Also post exactly which version you need. I may have extras in my junk drawers. Regarding flats, I didn't have a problem for myself but on group trips where other people may be trying to help fix a flat on my kids' or wife's bike, --they were flummoxed. Not worth the hassle. I love my Shimano 4 IGH (not available anymore but I have a few spares) on my commuter but I am DONE with IGHs in touring situations.

This was the big reason I started rebuilding older Schwinn Twinn Tandems with IGHs. Coordinating with the stoker on down-shifting prior to a stop, or having to start in wrong gear is way more inconvenient on a tandem --especially a casual one with novices in control. Shifting anytime to any gear was HUGE! I built up three of these and gave them away --but loved them for the few months I kept and rode them. Nice.

Sorry, but I don't have a link for the article, it was in one of the UK publications, Cycling Plus, possibly. BikeRadar is their website, so you might find something there. I had a subscription for a few years, and it was there. if I find it I'll gladly send you the citation so you know the edition and volume that it was in. Nothing really detailed, but it talked about the ratios and its engineering, I want to say it was an Alfine, but I don't know their IGH nomenclature well.

Thank you for your input about the IGH, and the history, you seem to be quite knowledgeable about them, as well as many other aspects of cycling.

Bill

Treebound, do you mean the anti-spin lock washers for the hub? You can get them off Ebay.