I posted this in the Hybrid Bicycles category, but since I easily (66) qualify for 50+ , I'm posting it here as well.

I have a "91 Miyata Quick Cross and I've decided between experiencing wrist discomfort and watching YouTube videos that I need a handle bar with more back sweep.
Dial caliper shows the present handle bar is 25.4mm diameter and there is very little back sweep with the current bar, it's pretty close to straight.
I have Ergon GP-1 grips and Cane Creek bar ends.

Trying to figure out how much back sweep to have (on the replacement handle bar), and if I should get something with a little rise to it as well. Stem is at its highest, so there is room to come down with it, if needed. I see some replacement bars that are pretty extreme on the back sweep. I don't think I need a lot, but don't know for sure, that's just a guess.

I ride daily, pretty vigorously for about an hour, on pavement and my wrist/ fingers get rather uncomfortable and numb. It's tolerable but why not improve on hand position and save all the discomfort for my butt and legs .

Any recommendations on sweep degrees and brands (& model of brand) will be greatly appreciated . I'm thinking aluminum makes the most sense.
All input welcome.

Many Thanks.
John

Fitzwater's Gunnar set up looks pretty amazing.

I went the other way. My hands and wrists began hurting on my straight bar bike, but not on my drop bar bikes, so I converted my straight bar MTB to drops. I did it myself with used parts for about $70...took a few hours.

Sorry can't help with back sweep and rise but must ask if you have gone through all the potential causes of your issue. These include the lists here:https://www.bicycling.com/health-nut...RoCMQsQAvD_BwE.

https://bikepacking.com/index/comfort-mtb-handlebars/
https://whatbars.com

I came across so many videos/comments where people remedied their wrist discomfort by changing from a flat bar to one with some (sometimes even with just a little) back sweep, I got thinking that alone might solve the problem. But not being sure I should consider every possibility.

Thanks for the article .

It can be trial and error. I have tried everything that I was able to find and got a new fit at 72. If you ask me what has helped the most with my osteoarthritis in my hands and wrists I would say raising the bars and moving the saddle back and changing out the skinny bar gel pads the bar tape companies sell and replacing is with fat gel cut from gel shoe insoles. But in your case these might do nothing. Good luck.

I never got used to the straight flat bars, too much stress on my wrist. Jones H-bars solved the problem for me.

Just a mild rant here about handlebars. I’m convinced the shape of handlebars is highly influenced by image and style- it’s about sales. Swept back handlebars are seen as old fashioned looking. Which is too bad because for many riders they are the best choice. If you can find them.

I find the old “Bull Moose” handlebar to be very comfortable, with just the right amount of back sweep for me. Here in Tokyo these now sell for a premium, they are very popular with commuters and the street bike crowd. I put one on my Moulton, and with the Ergon GP3 grips it’s a bike I can ride all day (100 miles) without my hands getting numb or uncomfortable.

Check out the classic touring bar with about 70 degrees of back sweep: examples are North Road, Nitto Albatross and Sunlite Elson Roadster. I use the latter on an old MTB.

Otto

Well I'm certainly the expert here for using swept bars on rides up to 133 miles and both tours, mine are 75 to 80d . With anything less than 70d your wrist palms will still be facing downward like MTB bars. There is some knee overlap when turning sharp. The sweep absolutely does provide REACH/ back lean options to the bends, the SAME as drops. I often have just my right hand in the forward position. That's why straight MTB bars are so damn horrible on the highway.
I also absolutely need to use the smooth plastic grips I got on my 1973 Raleigh and CCM. All the new ones are tire rubber CRAP. They soon turn into slimy tar. And it's fricking NUTS how tight they are now. It took me half an hour to get one off to install the mirror, then I cut the other one off and chucked them.

So 2 bars are chrome ones from the good old 1970s that have a full 1 inch clamp stub. Old Raleigh bars have a stupid odd 31/32s, or maybe it's 24 mm.
They are 3 widths, 48 to 53.5 cm c-c, two have 2.5" rise. This oldest one has a higher 3.25" rise, it's off a 50s SS Rudge and it has beautiful ever lasting nickel plating. >> pic. .... Two of them I made a quill to extend the bar ends for brake levers.

I made a DIY steel stem for all 3. Far better than crap soft alu Nitto ones.

There are dozens of places selling bars sort of like mine. Most are wider 54 to 56 cm. I like about 51 the best.
I wouldn't get the zero rise ones. Too bad Linus and Pashley won't sell their bars separate. Jones bars are hideously wide IMO, 71 cm.
I just rode this CCM 3 speed on it's 5th 100 miler. I ride one handed a few miles to change the comfort up.

'City Bike' Handlbars... They have varying degrees of backsweep.. You'll see the basic shape on many E-bikes intended for general road use...
Because of the higher amount of backsweep, the 'width' is usually much narrower than many flatbars - usually 620 to 640 width, as opposed to 700+ for mtb type flat bars...
I'm currently doing that conversion for a friend who constantly gets numb hands from flat bars. We've worked on posture and different grips, still a problem.
She a woman, and many have narrower shoulders, so wide flat bars are very uncomfortable. She rides non-technical mtb, so bracing and controlling is not an issue.
She never has any problems on her e-City bike, so I've gotten the same bars and will be doing the swap this wkend...
Ride On
Yuri
EDIT: 25.4 bars may be a little more difficult to get - don;t know. I'm going to use a 31.8 bar... If it's a threadless stem, you could get a 31.8 stem to go with whatever bar you decide on...

The FSA Metropolis bar is a classic 'CityBike' handlebar with around 30* of sweep. It's a 31.8 though. Nitto makes an 'Albatross' bar with a similar bend in either 25.4 or 31.8 but it is twice the price. Origin 8 has one as well. I have both an FSA Albatross and the Origin 8 which is just about identical.

Wald makes lots of handlebars. You probably want either an 872 or 867.

The Soma "Clarence" bar might work, or perhaps another one of their bars: Clarence Bar 25.4mm - Soma Fabrications

I should have mentioned (sorry) that I was going to start with something like a 15 -- 20 degree sweep. Although the Jones bar looks interesting.
But I have no idea if that will be enough or what I really want/need.

I will look into all y'alls recommendations.
Thank You.

I have fought the same issue for a few years; mostly tingling in the fingers and then having them fall asleep to the point of not being able to shift. I do have carpal tunnel, but my orthopaedic surgeon says I'd have to stay off the bike for 6-8 weeks, which is a non starter. So, I've done a few things and the problem is largely solved.

1. Very soft handgrips (A set of grip puppies over ESI Extra Chunky Grips)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AOVWA8K...t_details&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...TF8&th=1&psc=1

2. Had a professional bike fit done which resulted in taking pressure off my wrists.

3. Installed a set of SQL Bar Ends to rest my thumbs on when able changing the weight and angle on my wrists.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I do have a tubing bender and have thought about bending my handlebars, but I'm concerned about bending aluminum of an unknown alloy, and the above has worked.

Good luck!

Here’s a photo of my Moulton, the bars don’t look bad, and, as I say, they are very comfortable, much more so than the bars on my other bikes. And not bad looking. The little crossbar in the front is very convenient for mounting accessories.

Any handlebar will be a compromise to some degree. Finding what suits you will depend on your riding habits and may take some experimenting.

I have tried straight bars and slightly bent bars. Mostly now I ride my drop bar bike, but the MTB has the swept touring bars. In my particular case, I run both bikes single speed, so there is a fair amount of time pedaling out of the saddle. Drop bars have good positions for this.

I prefer the touring bars with 70-75 degree sweep over less swept bars because they have more fore/aft shift available. The forward spot is good for standing on flats or lesser slopes, while rearward is better for the harder push up a steeper slope. The steep sweep keeps the bars in a reasonable width while allowing rear extension.

If you don’t ride much out of the saddle, you may prefer less sweep. The Jones bars are in a sort of middle ground with a 45 sweep and may also suit you.

Otto

What handlebars are those? I might like to try them on our tandem.

I added short ergo bar ends to my flat bar bikes so they simulate the hoods on drop bars without making my back creak (dodgy disc) and this gives me a few hand position options. I also run a North Road style bar on another of my bikes (I know, n+1 right) which has plenty of back sweep and adds more variation when I fancy it.

One other thing, I run the touring bars with a long stem. Currently I think the stem is 135mm. The bars come back plenty even so. I can have my hands on the grips and the stem and steering axis are directly between my hands. The long stem means the forward bend is about equal to drop bar hoods.

Otto

I put a Nitto Rivendell Bosco bar on my Electra cruiser, very happy with it.