My new honey Brooks B17 saddle arrived today.

I applied the Proofide and will let it sit until morning when I buff it off.

Instructions say to apply "several times during the breaking-in period". Assuming I ride, say, 100 miles/week, every week, how long does the breaking-in period typically last? I realize it probably differs by weight of the rider, type of riding, etc. I'm just looking for a ballpark figure so I can determine how often to apply it "several times" during that period.

Based on the mileage you state I would think about 3 weeks and the saddle will at least have started to break in, you'll feel the the indentations on the saddle, where your sit bone is constantly placed. The proofride is more of a waterproofing thing as opposed to a softener, so based on the 3 week breaking in period I would only apply proofride once and you've already done that. Over the course of a year I would only apply proofride maybe 3 or 4 times.

I don't even do it that often. Once or twice per year for me.

I don't even think it's a waterproofer or a softener. It makes the leather more pleasant, but I've had it out in the rain right after proofiding, and the leather soaked up water - not a waterproofer!

I have noticed it seemed to add oil to a dried out B17 I had - the saddle became a bit more shiny and supple, and started to feel not so hard and old.

I agree with Retro, a new one does not need a lot of Proofiding. It's not supposed to make it break in. Your butt does that as well as anything is going to do, with no chance of causing any damage.

Does the Proofide make it less slippery? I went for a short ride to test the saddle position and everything felt fine except for the slipperiness factor.

I apply the goo to my B17 once exery two months or so. Keeps it looking nice and new. Lp

Proofide is just a leather conditioner, nothing more, nothing less. Use as needed to protect your saddle, not to break it in. Miles and butt sweat are best for breaking it in.

It's like a pair of shoes - you'll know when it 'needs' doing and the biggest damage to doing it too often is to your back pocket. If it looks dry, feed it. If you're consciencious, you'll do it more often. If you're lke me ... well, let's just say I'm disappointed we're heading into summer because it's not likely to rain again and now I'll have to wash the bike.

Richard

It's startling, isn't it! That goes away... I don't proofide mine, so I don't know if it helps with the slipping. Did you get a normal one or a woman's saddle?

I apply proofide about once a year on average. I applied no more than twice the first year when new.

After reading hundreds of threads about Proofhide and Brooks saddles, I have the answer: it doesn't matter.

Do it once, or do it once a month; you won't notice the difference.


IMHO the best thing for a Brooks saddle is riding it. If you put it into storage and/or don't ride it for awhile, it will get a bit dried out. So, put something on it when you get it out of storage. Then ride it.

^^^ Exactly. A tin of Proofide should last 50 years.

Back to my pair of leather shoes analogy again


My tin's so hard to get into, it probably will last that long.

Richard

I bought a B17 in August 2007. I haven't applied anything to it. I rode it in on my fixed gear in touring mode between London and Paris. I do weigh 85kg, however.

Yen, it will probably take between 700 and 1000km (let's see, imperial conversion, 437 to 625 miles) if you are around 55 to 60kg (121 to 132lbs) to break in. You will see sitbone divots appear on either side. The slipperiness goes away, and you will notice a change in the patina of the saddle, which seems to get very tiny wrinkles on the surface.

Brooks and others suggest that if you ride without fenders/mudguards, you should apply a liberal coating to the underside of the saddle to help protect it from the wet.

I run fenders, and it rained a lot on PBP... and there doesn't seem to have been any negative effect on the saddle in not having applied Proofide.

If you got the spanner, lose it until you absolutely sure you need to make a quarter or half turn on the nut, then when you remember where you put it, the time might be just about right for the adjustment -- probably in five years' time.

My other much older Brooks has been tightened up ever so slightly after something like 45,000km (28,125 miles). I tightened Machka's Brooks B17 as well last August, but she has done quite a bit more wet-weather randonnees in the past few years.

I had a honey Pro. Don't be surprised to see the saddle discolour and go much darker over time. I sold the Pro to a friend, and when I saw it next, it was a dark brown, but he rides a LOT. That Pro was a bear to break in, but then, I was running handlebars level with the seat, which is not the thing with a Pro -- the bars should be somewhat lower.

Don't you know that you are supposed to purchase authentic Neet's Foot Oil, turn the saddle upside down, fill with the oil, wrap it all up in foil and bake it in the oven at 160 degrees overnight?

I would use a SFB with hickory and smoke it at 225 degrees without foil for 6 hours.

Riding it will make it less slippery. Be patient.
Riding it will break it in. Be patient.
I apply Proofide maybe 3 times during the first 200 miles on a new Brooks and then maybe once a year after that.

Do you really ride 5,000 miles a year? Wow!

On a dried-out saddle with a rough surface it makes it more slippery, since it adds oil and enables the leather to flex. Then your butt pressure and motion polish it.

On a newer one, I don't think it makes a lot of difference.

If you're slipping forward, try angling the saddle nose up just a tiny scootch at a time. It could also be that "forward" is where your pedaling technique is best, and your body is finding where it wants to be. If you think this is what's happening, try sliding the saddle forward to put the wide part of the saddle under your 'bones AFTER you slip forward. You mihgt not need to be in a KOPS knee position.

Road Fan

I have found, (and I don't know if I'm typical) that the brooks feels more "right" the lower my shoulders are. So if I'm in the drops, or if I'm on a bike with lower bars, the saddle feels like it's doing exactly what it should be doing. It's fine in a less aggressive position, too, but I think I move around on it a lot more.

Personally, I wouldn't move the saddle until you stop slipping and find your spot in it.

Then allow it to cool to room temperature. Pick up the entire package, foil and all, and throw it in the nearest garbage can. Congratulations on ruining your new Brooks saddle.

I have a tin of proofide, but I haven't ever used it. I do spray the bottom of the saddle with that spray on shoe water-proofer, though. Because, that really does* keep the leather from getting wet.

But, if you use the saddle, you're going to get enough body oil on it to keep it from drying out, right?

And the sweat and weight is going to break it in.

Unless it's uncomfortable straight from the box, I don't know why people use it. I've never really heard anyone saying that it was uncomfortable during the break-in period and then was awesomely comfortable. People seem to either love it or hate it from day one.

Proofide is to treat and protect the leather (while allowing it to breathe). It has nothing to do with break-in.

There's a lot of people who are under the impression that it helps to break it in faster.

What does proofide do that sweat and skin oil doesn't, then? What exactly is "conditioning"?

My experience, never; nor any time afterwards.