HI,
My rear allignment was off a hair and it would cause a creek under load, I losened the rear clamp and pressed hard on the brakes and then while holding the brakes I tightned the rear clamp , All I know is it stopped, my guess the slight allignment was enough to cause the crank to creak.
Doug
PSPS Scotch will make it less of a concern and is good for your health due to scotch vitamins..its made from grains right...

My clicking while spinning under load problem mysteriously disappeared after I removed my rear wheel for a tube change. I noticed a small amount of compacted gummy stuff on the inside face of the adjusting nut. I cleaned it up and put the wheel back on the bike - no more clicking (for now, anyway).

Righto. I've checked up on rebuilding the pedals ... and need some special tools to do it (two tube spanners, one fits inside the other so you can undo a locking nut while holding an adjusting nut). So I'm going to steal the pedals off the commuter.

Regardless of this noise issue, I will get the pedals rebuilt I think, as they've done a bit of work in some horrid conditions. It'd be nice to do it myself, just for the exercise, but it'll depend on the tools, their availability and their cost.

There's a thread for the pedal rebuild here but seeing this is the parent thread AND in the 50+ forum, discussion here is fine by me.

Incidentally, these pedals recently suffered some indignities during an afternoon's fun and experimentation combined with hamfistedness and over estimation of my abilities which resulted in them becomming permanently fitted with toe clips - it's described here

Now I'm going to address Stapfam's concerns and crack open a bottle of Jamiesons (Irish whisky, not scotch, but it should serve). Note, I will not be working on the bike during this period ... but will be filling in tax returns

Richard

I tend to limit my activities to unessential tasks during such periods - such as repair of washing machines.

I seem to have defeated the click (cue howls of frustration for tomorrow morning when it comes back).

Pedals. I swapped the pedals and had a quiet ride in this morning
Now I need to rebuild the pedals. Easy enough to do but I need some nested tube spanners to get to the cone nut and locknut inside the pedal so it's off to the lbs after work (I always check out the proper options before bodgying something).

Richard

Ah, the soap opera rolls on. I just priced the nested tube spanners to do the job - $60
At that price, I'll wait till the weekend and see what I can bodge up - a cheap tube spanner for the locknut and a screwdriver jammed down beside the cone nut spring to mind.

Ah ha, I just remembered a set of sockets I have that are very very thin ...

Richard

I'd substitute out the questionable pedals with others and see if the fricking crickin goes away. If so, at least you have localized the problem.

Could you just squirt some lube into the pedals and see if that solves the problem before buying more tools? Gawd, I can't belive I wrote that. Though unless I'm missing something it very well could be a legitimate solution.

Did that this morning mate and discovered that I do love riding a silent bike (coz the clicking went away) and that the M324 really is a nice pedal, especially when compared to the cheap horrors I had on the commuter

Richard

When I took the clipless system off, I eucred (buggered, ruined, knackered, stuffed) a couple of screws and tried to drill them out and being hamfisted (despite using a drill press) buggered that up too. Really, a sensible bear wouldn't let me anywhere near a good bike I wouldn't be surprised if I damaged more than the alloy body of the pedal in that little incident, though I didn't think so at the time and they did a couple of hundred kms before the noise appeared - I hadn't even considered that aspect of the case until sitting here at work this morning. There was a postive side to the experience though, I DID get to attack my good bike with an angle grinder

Now that I know where the problem lies, it's becomming more of an 'what happens if I pull this apart' type experience than purely trying to solve a problem. Yes, I know that's sad but us old wombats need to have some interests in life.

Richard

HI,
I know that trying to fix it and breaking it pain, with my ultrega shifter (R), my so called new used bike worked three time out the barn and then the right shifter started acting up, SO I used 1 whole can of WD40 on cleaning the darn thing out, and the upshift started working but the down shift would only work if you squezed the brake and the dang shifter together and clickig it to the right and it works flawless Most likely the spring is broken .
sheeeeeeeeut/..
So I searched BBAy and found some tiagra shifters suposed to be ok, but lost the BID,
I then found a bike store online that would sell me a (R) utltrega shifter for 110.00 bucks,
geezzze , They shipped them over night (sucker) and then my LBS did the install and mentioned hey you may wish to change that handle bar tape while we have it off.
SO, I plopped down another 55.00 for the install new tape and cables , I am stoked to ride on this saturday andwake up the worst sore throat that went into the croup,crude.PS the snow gods are trying to mess up the road today.
So me bike is already to go for the past few days but I am not quite sure if I am up to ridding yet..
Geezeee...
Doug

Ohhhh yes. It's incidents like this that have my dog hiding under the bed

Richard

I'm sure glad I re-read this thread since I've got a squeak when my right pedal is at 3 o'clock. I had completely discounted the pedals which seems like a more likely source than the bottom bracket. I've got a spare pair of SPDs and I can easily change out the right pedal. sure hopes this works!

You think it's going to be that easy? Most likely, when you go over every possibility the 2nd time, you will discover it was one of the first two or three items you hastily checked first.

I rebuilt the pedals yesterday ... with the inevitable fun and games trying to adjust a cone nut and then tighten its lock nut when both are buried deep within the body of the pedal and me being too ikey (cheap) to pay $60 for the proper tools. Interestingly, neither pedal had the correct number of ball bearings (according to Shimano) and neither had the same number - no, I didn't lose some during disassembly. Equally interestingly, both pedals have some sideways play in the shafts - good thing these are pedals and not wheel hubs. Shimano M324 - they're rated as a good pedal (not top line, just good) and are better than a lot of them you see, but ...

They're back on the bike but I won't get a chance for some test riding till wednesday (kid duties). I didn't test ride after doing the job because I like to finish jobs like that on a high note Wait for the howls when the clicking noise comes back

Richard