Need some basic wheel buying advice
11-21-11 | 02:37 PM
#26
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From: Capitol Hill, Washington, DC
Bikes: Specialized Tricross Comp, Custom Steel Sport Touring, Specialized Turbo Vado 4.0 SL
What is the problem with the Roval's hub that you are wanting to fix? You should be able to replace the bearings in the hub if they are the problem. You'll need to find the specifics of how to remove the old bearings and what to replace them with, probably through Specialized.
11-21-11 | 03:22 PM
#27
just keep riding
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Milledgeville, Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
This should be quite an adventure. Sounds like more wrong than bad bearings. Probably something involving the pawls or whatever ratcheting mechanism this hub uses. One big problem you are likely to face is in finding any specific technical information about the hubs. The online documentation is just going to send you to your Specialized mechanic. Yours has already suggested that you should just replace the wheel.
11-21-11 | 03:27 PM
#28
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Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Capitol Hill, Washington, DC
Bikes: Specialized Tricross Comp, Custom Steel Sport Touring, Specialized Turbo Vado 4.0 SL
This should be quite an adventure. Sounds like more wrong than bad bearings. Probably something involving the pawls or whatever ratcheting mechanism this hub uses. One big problem you are likely to face is in finding any specific technical information about the hubs. The online documentation is just going to send you to your Specialized mechanic. Yours has already suggested that you should just replace the wheel.
The Roval can become a decoration on the garage wall.
11-21-11 | 08:08 PM
#29
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From: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
I need to buy a new wheel set for a Specialized Tricross Comp. I have never bought wheels before so I am at a bit of a loss as to what will fit. The existing wheels are Roval Classique Paves - the front has a 20 hole hub and the rear has a 24 hole hub. The rims are described as Roval Pave alloy, double wall but I don't have any details about the rim height and width. My tires are 700c x 32mm.
In any event I was looking at Performance Bike's sale and sawsome Mavics on sale that seem good but will they fit the tires? The Kysirium Elites sound nice (on sale for $399). The specs show the rim heights as 22 front 25 rear and widths as 19 front, 20 rear. Does this mean they are too narrow for 32mm cyclocross tires? They also have a Kysirium Equipe wheelset on sale for $250 but that identifies the rim height as 24 but width as 13mm - that sounds even more dramatically narrow. These also have less spokes than my current wheels - 18 front, 20 rear.
Any suggestions on how I should evaluate wheel sets? Do I need wider rims? More spokes to strengthen the wheels or are newer wheels just as strong with fewer?
In any event I was looking at Performance Bike's sale and sawsome Mavics on sale that seem good but will they fit the tires? The Kysirium Elites sound nice (on sale for $399). The specs show the rim heights as 22 front 25 rear and widths as 19 front, 20 rear. Does this mean they are too narrow for 32mm cyclocross tires? They also have a Kysirium Equipe wheelset on sale for $250 but that identifies the rim height as 24 but width as 13mm - that sounds even more dramatically narrow. These also have less spokes than my current wheels - 18 front, 20 rear.
Any suggestions on how I should evaluate wheel sets? Do I need wider rims? More spokes to strengthen the wheels or are newer wheels just as strong with fewer?
There are two schools of though with wheels one school is only concerned with performance, if a wheel has 4 fewer spokes and means your .01% faster, that's a good thing, the price you pay is that the wheel is less reliable, in that if you should break a spoke, the wheel has fewer spokes to take the load, which can lead to rim failure. The other school is only concerned with reliability, the more spokes the better, because if you should break a spoke, the wheel has a bunch of other spokes that will carry the load, and your less likely to end up having to walk your bike the 30 miles to the nearest town. The price you pay this way is that the wheel is likely to be heavier, so you may end up slower. As for rim widths, you need to refer to St Sheldon the patron saint of bicycle mechanics. Have a look at this page on tire sizing, go to the bottom of the page, then go up to a red and green chart, this will tell you that for a 32mm tire you need a rim between 15 and 19mm wide.
11-21-11 | 08:30 PM
#30
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From: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
This should be quite an adventure. Sounds like more wrong than bad bearings. Probably something involving the pawls or whatever ratcheting mechanism this hub uses. One big problem you are likely to face is in finding any specific technical information about the hubs. The online documentation is just going to send you to your Specialized mechanic. Yours has already suggested that you should just replace the wheel.
11-22-11 | 06:24 AM
#31
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From: Capitol Hill, Washington, DC
Bikes: Specialized Tricross Comp, Custom Steel Sport Touring, Specialized Turbo Vado 4.0 SL
Could be a sticky pawl, they sometimes stick when the lubrication in the freehub dries out. Here is what he could try, get a can of WD40, and some oil, Phil oil works really well, take off the wheel, put the wheel freewheel/cassette side up, turn the freewheel and see what part is stationary and what part rotates, spray the WD40 into the gap between them while turning the freewheel, keep going until it drips out the other side, continue until it drips out clear. Now go have lunch to let it dry out. Now drip the oil into the same spot, keep putting oil and turning the freewheel until it drips out. Let it sit until it stops dripping. Now put the wheel back on and give it a try. If it works, you saved the price of a wheel. Just remember when you clean you bike to drip a little oil in there, to keep things well lubricated.
11-23-11 | 06:36 AM
#33
just keep riding
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,560
Likes: 44
From: Milledgeville, Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
As for rim widths, you need to refer to St Sheldon the patron saint of bicycle mechanics. Have a look at this page on tire sizing, go to the bottom of the page, then go up to a red and green chart, this will tell you that for a 32mm tire you need a rim between 15 and 19mm wide.
Last edited by BluesDawg; 11-23-11 at 06:52 AM.
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