I experimented with using self-fusing tape as a top layer on the handlebars. The idea was that I'd wrap the handlebars with the nice thick cork stuff, then add this cheaper stuff on top, and replace it when it got dirty.

This tape is interesting stuff, when you stretch it, it sticks to itself. I did the handlebars with one 12' x 1" roll. You could do it with 8' or maybe 6' once you got the hang of it. It's a little tricky, because if it folds on itself when you are stretching it, it sticks to itself, and it's hard to get that undone. You don't need electrical tape at the end.

It looks OK when done. It's a little shiny/rubbery. If I weren't using gloves I wouldn't like the feel of it. The white is a bit translucent, so it would be best to have white cork tape underneath.

If you stretched it enough, you could get it to about $3 per set of handlebars. You can get Nashbar regular tape for $5.99 + shipping.

Conclusion: Probably not worth it.

I think it's important to describe failed experiments as well as the successes, so thanks.

Still I wonder how well it would protect the pretty white tape underneath, or how much money you'd save over re-wrapping half or a third as often.

I read where a guy wrapped hockey tape under cotton bar tape for padding the other day. Haven't tried it yet but might on a new build this winter. Might shellac it too if I can get the color right.

There is a foam product that we can put on handlebars, which is round and goes over the bars. I had some extra, and cut it in half longetudinally so that I had I ended up with the same length of foam, but it only went around half the bar. I placed these where my hands would be, then wrapped it with normal handlebar tape. This made for a very comfortable cushioned bar that I really like.

John

The foam handlebar grips would be a little much for me. I never did like those and especially not with gloves. I wonder if shellacing (like some do with cotton) cork or simulated leather might work out.

I bought some Sette cork tape on sale from Price Point. It feels (to me) as nice as Cinelli, is easier to wrap, is cheaper, and is much more cushiony.

+1 I agree.

OTOH, my solution is to just let the tape get dirty. I think dirty white tape is really cool.


And it keeps me from looking too pro. (This on behalf of slobs everywhere.)

Ed Note: tape is actually far smudgier than the photos show.

I get the cheapest cork tape ($10) and wrap cloth tape over it. Gives a padded bar but with the groovy cloth look. Cloth alone is kind of hard for my delicate handsies.

Like this:



Also I found that one pass of a pressure washer restores grubby cloth tape to bright new. I think the dirt just gets driven deeper into the fibers, but anyway it looks purty again.

For a couple years, I've been using self-fusing tape as a replacement for electrical tape for finishing the ends of a cork tape wrap.
Most recently, I've been buying the cork tape off eBay, typically ~$4 shipped.

Dude.... that looks cool. How do I do it?

https://www.wastedlife.org/bike/harlequin/

This is cool

Heck some people, just used hockey tape, it's not just in white anymore, there are a whole rainbow of colours, has a bonus, when it starts looking ragged, just add another layer When it gets too thick, strip it back to the bare bars and start over.

+++ Few things are as under-rated as the value of failed experiments.

I wouldn't call it a failed experiment. I did it to answer the question "Is it worth it?" and I got the answer: "Probably not."

OK, let's call it a "negative result".

Same here except I get it from my local hardware store.

Curious.... is the top tube to short? Looking at the seat setback, the bike appears to small for you.

I realize you weren't looking for a bike fit critique, but that setback looks odd.

You're right about how it looks. It looks odd because that is a different type of seat (an ISM Adamo), which has no nose, and extra stuff at the back. IOW, I sit further forward on that seat than I would a normal seat.



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