Gearing And Stuff
#26
Have bike, will travel
Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
Headwinds will also shift sometimes abruptly when it's time to come back. 
I've used the road double all my life and with a 14-28 gear. I do my own wrenching and will be swapping parts if needed. One thing I've noticed....it never gets easier, you only go faster. Time for a change. I'm 56yrs old and that is too old to keep doing things the same way.

I've used the road double all my life and with a 14-28 gear. I do my own wrenching and will be swapping parts if needed. One thing I've noticed....it never gets easier, you only go faster. Time for a change. I'm 56yrs old and that is too old to keep doing things the same way.
Here is another way to look at the two drivetrains you are considering: https://www.kstoerz.com/gearcalc/comp...50,34&ighid2=1
You will see that the 50 & 11 is 20% taller in terms of gear-inches than the 53 & 14 that you are now using. This combination will almost never be used.
I would change to a compact first, and then evaluate the existing freewheel before making other changes.
__________________
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
When I ride my bike I feel free and happy and strong. I'm liberated from the usual nonsense of day to day life. Solid, dependable, silent, my bike is my horse, my fighter jet, my island, my friend. Together we will conquer that hill and thereafter the world.
Last edited by Barrettscv; 02-09-14 at 10:18 AM.
#27
just keep riding
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 13,560
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From: Milledgeville, Georgia
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Remember, I'm switching from the road double to compact double. I dont recover-coast on the backside of the hills. With a 53 and 14 I'm spinning a bit fast at 37mph. So if I reduce the ratio to a 50 and add the 11 I can live with that. I would grab a shimano 12-28 if available. But my dilemma isnt the high end.....it's the low end. I need a lower bailout gear.
See the comparison here.
7 speeds on compact gearing makes for some hard decisions. If you go for more range than you really need, the price paid is very large jumps between gears. 10 speed rear ends is what made it possible to really get the most out of compact gearing. As long as you are upgrading...
#28
Senior Member

Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Middle of da Mitten
Bikes: Trek 7500, RANS V-Rex, Optima Baron, Velokraft NoCom, M-5 Carbon Highracer, Catrike Speed
Out of curiosity, which hills are you referring to, OldsCOOL? I've been on a few of them up around you. Some are downright nasty.
#29
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712

Heading out of Boyne City toward the Ironton Ferry Rd, past Advance and Whiting Park there is Mountain Road off to the left. On long, tiring rides I should be having great joy turning up my home road....instead I stare a steep hill I lovingly call "Jezebel Hill". With my oldschool gearing I've climbed it twice and rejoiced even with a sore knee on one time and charlied quad on the second time.

Have you climbed "The Wall"?? Every group ride through hilly East Jordan must include this hill like it is cumpulsory for ride planners or something.
I love riding this area and have been top ten on several Strava courses. Currently, I'm 17th of 94 on one course in Boyne that I'd really like to get back into top ten again.
Great fun to ride this area. Hills galore.
ETA: have you rode Ridge Rd? There is a hill going into the valley that I only take a route that allows me to descend it. It is crazy steep and where I hit 45mph on a coast. The acceleration is invigorating.
Last edited by OldsCOOL; 02-09-14 at 01:43 PM.
#30
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
I understood that. I was pointing out that even with a 50/13 you would still have as high a gear ratio as with the 53/14. Slightly higher, in fact. A 50/12 would give you the higher gear you seem to want (you didn't indicate that before). The 50/11 would be such a big increase over what you had, I wonder if it would be usable. In either case, the 34/28 will give you a much lower gear than your old 39/28.
See the comparison here.
7 speeds on compact gearing makes for some hard decisions. If you go for more range than you really need, the price paid is very large jumps between gears. 10 speed rear ends is what made it possible to really get the most out of compact gearing. As long as you are upgrading...
See the comparison here.
7 speeds on compact gearing makes for some hard decisions. If you go for more range than you really need, the price paid is very large jumps between gears. 10 speed rear ends is what made it possible to really get the most out of compact gearing. As long as you are upgrading...

#31
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
I'm scoping the HG-20 with 12-28. Just ordered the wheelset and will start on the parts to get me rolling in the next few weeks.
The gearing is as follows: 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28. This leaves a huge gap at the hillclimbs but I can deal with this no probs. Otherwise, it's classic half-step kind of stuff. Much better.
Thanx for the input, friends!
The gearing is as follows: 12, 14, 16, 18, 21, 24, 28. This leaves a huge gap at the hillclimbs but I can deal with this no probs. Otherwise, it's classic half-step kind of stuff. Much better.
Thanx for the input, friends!
#32
Si Senior
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,669
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From: Naperville, Illinois
Bikes: Too Numerous (not)
I went from 53-39-30 to 50-34 for last summer's WI trip and didn't like it so much. I had always spent most of the time in the 39. With the compact double I was shifting the front a lot more than I like. My preference is a tight rear cluster and a front chainring that works on everything except super steep (and I don't push high gears --doing light-ish touring). I'm currently building up a 42-26 front with a corn-cob rear for next summer to see if I like it. I'll report back any insights (if there are any).
#33
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
Just offer ,the thing you do when the gaps between ratios are not 1t small, is .. if the next lower gear feels too low,
slow down a bit till it feels right .. its not a race ,
but the gear that they develop
to compete with the other companies , also making components for a competing race team,
sell the rabble/Tifosi, Race fans on their needing the same kit , thru marketing and advertising ..
Seems to work with all the people posting here, wanting to Upgrade (certainly up cost) the components on their bikes .
and selling new stuff keeps the wheels of the industry spinning ..
the change your pace to match the gear that feels right for the terrain you are on , is a different Approach
the tourist ~ pootle along and enjoy the scenery, scheme.
YMMV of course..
slow down a bit till it feels right .. its not a race ,
but the gear that they develop
to compete with the other companies , also making components for a competing race team,
sell the rabble/Tifosi, Race fans on their needing the same kit , thru marketing and advertising ..
Seems to work with all the people posting here, wanting to Upgrade (certainly up cost) the components on their bikes .
and selling new stuff keeps the wheels of the industry spinning ..
the change your pace to match the gear that feels right for the terrain you are on , is a different Approach
the tourist ~ pootle along and enjoy the scenery, scheme.
YMMV of course..
#34
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
This is my 4th season of diligently purposed riding since a 7yr layoff. When I came back in, it was for doing a bucket ride Century. The next two seasons have been more speed and hills oriented. My body type is more suited to the TT, hillclimbs etc. i really enjoy going fast.
The bike I will be building will be my first sub-20, my body wt at it's lowest in years and a renewed vigor to go faster. Maybe in another 10yrs the slower endurance stuff will appeal more.
And there are a couple of hills I have declared war on.
The bike I will be building will be my first sub-20, my body wt at it's lowest in years and a renewed vigor to go faster. Maybe in another 10yrs the slower endurance stuff will appeal more.
And there are a couple of hills I have declared war on.
Last edited by OldsCOOL; 02-12-14 at 03:57 PM.
#35
Trek 500 Kid

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,563
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
I hear this complaint often about compacts, either that the rider is having to shift chainrings often or is having crosschaining issues. That's why they make different chainrings and why it it pays to do the gearchart calculations when you are contemplating upgrading drivetrains. Everything is a compromise though. As has been mentioned, you go wide at the top and bottom, you sometimes give up your optimum convenient progression of ratios in the middle.
#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,358
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
I hear this complaint often about compacts, either that the rider is having to shift chainrings often or is having crosschaining issues. That's why they make different chainrings and why it it pays to do the gearchart calculations when you are contemplating upgrading drivetrains. Everything is a compromise though. As has been mentioned, you go wide at the top and bottom, you sometimes give up your optimum convenient progression of ratios in the middle.
#37
Trek 500 Kid

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,563
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
You guys still pushing those 53x11s and such can have at 'er but you won't be having me hanging in there to suck your wheels.
#38
Thread Starter
Senior Member

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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Freewheels are getting mighty expensive out there on Ebay anymore and many are likely worn down some. You can still get a very few SunRace and Shimano sprocket combos but no 5 speeds that I know of. Somebody is making 120mm 5 speed cassettes now though but those are pretty spendy as well.
You guys still pushing those 53x11s and such can have at 'er but you won't be having me hanging in there to suck your wheels.

You guys still pushing those 53x11s and such can have at 'er but you won't be having me hanging in there to suck your wheels.

#39
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2008
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If you are lucky enough to have a C&V bicycle and need to have the freewheel rebuilt and/or serviced, look up Pastorbobnlnh in the member's list. He now has a business rebuilding the classic freewheel internals that is highly recommended: https://www.bikeforums.net/member.php...-pastorbobnlnh . Not a shill, he is a great member here and his work is very respected, just hit the link in his sig line.
Bill
Bill
#40
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,358
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
If you are lucky enough to have a C&V bicycle and need to have the freewheel rebuilt and/or serviced, look up Pastorbobnlnh in the member's list. He now has a business rebuilding the classic freewheel internals that is highly recommended: https://www.bikeforums.net/member.php...-pastorbobnlnh . Not a shill, he is a great member here and his work is very respected, just hit the link in his sig line.
Bill
Bill
#41
Senior Member

Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 12,940
Likes: 363
I've read several of your C&V posts, I knew you had the C&V virus already, too. Just wanted to mention to the others with the older freewheels that they can be safely rebuilt, still. Got to keep the good stuff rolling, as you well know.
Bill
Bill
#42
Trek 500 Kid

Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,563
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From: Spokane WA
Bikes: '83 Trek 970 road --- '86 Trek 500 road
^^^
Pastor Bob even has French threaded FWs (not sure how many). Yeah if you want to go over that rare FW that you want to use, that would be the guy to contact.
Pastor Bob even has French threaded FWs (not sure how many). Yeah if you want to go over that rare FW that you want to use, that would be the guy to contact.
#43
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 13,358
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From: northern michigan
Bikes: '77 Colnago Super, '76 Fuji The Finest, '88 Cannondale Criterium, '86 Trek 760, '87 Miyata 712
Thanx, I appreciate the info. I wasnt aware that he was also servicing them for others as a business now. He posted a pic of a disassembled Suntour FW and that was all I needed to keep me from getting into one.
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cerealkilla
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