fiting old bike
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fiting old bike
https://m.flickr.com/#/photos/132179...6/18616401301/
Hi everyone
I just had a discussion about the above bike in the classic thread and following the advice have decided to fit this bike to update it and make it more of a road bike. I was just wondering what should I be looking to buy and how much roughly will it cost.
Thanks for any advice guys.
Hi everyone
I just had a discussion about the above bike in the classic thread and following the advice have decided to fit this bike to update it and make it more of a road bike. I was just wondering what should I be looking to buy and how much roughly will it cost.
Thanks for any advice guys.
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#3
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Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
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This section is more about fitting a bike to your body, not necessarily restoring or converting it. But when you make changes you need to make sure it fits you so here are a few thoughts.
The way I approach something like this is to first make sure the bike in its current configuration is comfortable. If not you should try and get it there or at least figure out what you don't like such as bars too low too much or too little reach, etc. You will need to find a set of drop handlebars and possibly a stem. For the bars there area number of choices traditional, compact, flat top, randonneur (which would be cool but expensive), etc. I like a traditional compact drop like a Cinelli 64, but that may not be what you want and older Cinelli's have stem compatibility issues. Depending on your reach you may want a shorter stem with road bars to be comfortable on the hood/drops. You do need top take measurements from a static point such as the bottom bracket (center of the crank), height from the top tube, distance from seat tube, etc. You can even take a level and to help (if the bike is on level ground). But you want to take measurements from points that won't change with a different stem, seat, seatpost, tires, etc.
Now for the cost stuff... Handlebars will run from $35 and up (ebay) and a stem is $20 and up (ebay). I'd figure $75 to $100. Make sure stem and handlebar diameter match. If it is a 7 speed hyperglide (per bikepedia) you will have to come to terms with what type of shifters do you want. Per bikepedia the OX-2 has Shimano LX so you don't have to mess with coverting from Suntour. 7 Speed down tube shifters will require getting bosses, easy to find, and the cost of the shifters will be anywhere from $20 - $50 off ebay depending on condition and component. I'd stay away from Dura Ace. If you go down tube you will need to get separate brakes. I think Tektro RL 340/341 is a good choice ($25). You can get new Shimano Tourney 7 speed brifters for around $100 or so that will include the brake lever. If you change the cassette you are around $25 and a chain is $15-$20 (KMC). Handlebar tape, cables, housings, brake pads, grease, oil, etc will run you another $50-$100. Tires will go from $30 to $100 a pair depending on what you want. None of this includes any maintenance labor cost or bearing replacement.
I'd guess $200/$250 minimum to $400/$500 with nicer stuff and tires.
John
The way I approach something like this is to first make sure the bike in its current configuration is comfortable. If not you should try and get it there or at least figure out what you don't like such as bars too low too much or too little reach, etc. You will need to find a set of drop handlebars and possibly a stem. For the bars there area number of choices traditional, compact, flat top, randonneur (which would be cool but expensive), etc. I like a traditional compact drop like a Cinelli 64, but that may not be what you want and older Cinelli's have stem compatibility issues. Depending on your reach you may want a shorter stem with road bars to be comfortable on the hood/drops. You do need top take measurements from a static point such as the bottom bracket (center of the crank), height from the top tube, distance from seat tube, etc. You can even take a level and to help (if the bike is on level ground). But you want to take measurements from points that won't change with a different stem, seat, seatpost, tires, etc.
Now for the cost stuff... Handlebars will run from $35 and up (ebay) and a stem is $20 and up (ebay). I'd figure $75 to $100. Make sure stem and handlebar diameter match. If it is a 7 speed hyperglide (per bikepedia) you will have to come to terms with what type of shifters do you want. Per bikepedia the OX-2 has Shimano LX so you don't have to mess with coverting from Suntour. 7 Speed down tube shifters will require getting bosses, easy to find, and the cost of the shifters will be anywhere from $20 - $50 off ebay depending on condition and component. I'd stay away from Dura Ace. If you go down tube you will need to get separate brakes. I think Tektro RL 340/341 is a good choice ($25). You can get new Shimano Tourney 7 speed brifters for around $100 or so that will include the brake lever. If you change the cassette you are around $25 and a chain is $15-$20 (KMC). Handlebar tape, cables, housings, brake pads, grease, oil, etc will run you another $50-$100. Tires will go from $30 to $100 a pair depending on what you want. None of this includes any maintenance labor cost or bearing replacement.
I'd guess $200/$250 minimum to $400/$500 with nicer stuff and tires.
John
Last edited by 70sSanO; 06-09-15 at 10:13 AM.
#4
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prices are between you and the seller ..
how dore it fit now?
MTB bars of that era are 1",Road bars different, so need another stem
the rise and reach-extension are part of your fit .
I like Bar end friction shifters (Yours via, an Ebay search )
most road brake levers will be fine with Cantilever Brakes..
Trekking bars are a simpler conversion, and also a good road/touring setup..
how dore it fit now?
MTB bars of that era are 1",Road bars different, so need another stem
the rise and reach-extension are part of your fit .
I like Bar end friction shifters (Yours via, an Ebay search )
most road brake levers will be fine with Cantilever Brakes..
Trekking bars are a simpler conversion, and also a good road/touring setup..
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