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Still having problems with noseless saddle

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Still having problems with noseless saddle

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Old 07-25-15 | 11:34 PM
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Bikes: -Giant Nutra (Hybrid) -Nashbar TR1

Still having problems with noseless saddle

Well, my noseless saddle has eradicated the problem of me feeling like I've been kicked in the scrotum after a ride. However, it is causing me to put a tremendous amount of pressure on my hands. The manufacturer suggested I move my saddle forward, which I did. But I think I need to move it forward still. Can moving a saddle too far forward cause any damage to the knees? Right now I'm at the suggested location (knee is directly over ball of foot at 3:00 position). But the pressure on my hands is still too uncomfortable. I've replaced the stock stem on my Nashbar TR1 with a taller angled stem to raise my bars. That helps a bit.

Any suggestions are welcome!
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Old 07-26-15 | 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DavidPT40
Well, my noseless saddle has eradicated the problem of me feeling like I've been kicked in the scrotum after a ride. However, it is causing me to put a tremendous amount of pressure on my hands. The manufacturer suggested I move my saddle forward, which I did. But I think I need to move it forward still. Can moving a saddle too far forward cause any damage to the knees? Right now I'm at the suggested location (knee is directly over ball of foot at 3:00 position). But the pressure on my hands is still too uncomfortable. I've replaced the stock stem on my Nashbar TR1 with a taller angled stem to raise my bars. That helps a bit.

Any suggestions are welcome!
You need to have your saddle lower than your handlebar and you need to increase grip on your noseless saddle. Anti slip shoe pads removed the extra pressure on my wrists. The problem though is that those pads are quite firm (bike short necessary) and tend to gather heat under the sun (black). Luckily during a long ride the glue that held the shoe pads on my saddle wasn't strong enough and those pads fell off. The remaining glue spots on my saddle are what was needed to increase grip without having the cons above. The remaining problem for me is that padding on my noseless saddle is gone after years of use. Should have done it with a new one

Last edited by erig007; 07-26-15 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 07-26-15 | 01:27 AM
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I've never used a noseless saddle yet in principle you move the saddle backwards to take the weight off your hands, not forwards. I have no idea why the manufacturer recommended that you move it forwards.

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Old 07-26-15 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AnthonyG
in principle you move the saddle backwards to take the weight off your hands, not forwards.
+1.

Also, make sure the saddle is not tilting down to the front in some way that causes you to slide forward and put more weight on your hands.

If you start to have knee issues, you can consider the chart (Chart 1) near the bottom of this webpage for ideas: BikeFit - Road Bikes.
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Old 07-26-15 | 01:07 PM
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Or figure you are just alternating weight on either pedal , and lean against the noseless thing rather than sit upon it.

Seen them used that way makes some sense..

or perhaps you will start thinking about a Recumbent instead of a diamond frame bike at All ..
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Old 07-26-15 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Or figure you are just alternating weight on either pedal , and lean against the noseless thing rather than sit upon it.

Seen them used that way makes some sense..
I do that sometimes when going into an aero position with my noseless saddle and it works well. I nearly double my speed on flat ground though i can't stay in this position for too long before my legs give up. The way i circumvent the problem is by doing little bursts then rest and repeat.
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Old 07-26-15 | 08:55 PM
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The manufacturer is clueless. What make of saddle is it? Move the saddle back. Pay no attention to where your knees are. Just move it back until you can lift your hands off the hoods while riding without sliding forward on the saddle. Hopefully you have a setback seatpost. Your weight should be on the saddle and the pedals, very little on your hands. Also of course the saddle should be approximately level and at the usual height: with your heel on the pedal, your knee should lock out with no weight on the pedal.
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Old 11-27-15 | 02:20 PM
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It is a Spiderflex saddle. I'm trying to get the bike dialed in over the winter.
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Old 11-27-15 | 09:49 PM
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The saddle has to be level, not tilted forward. With a forward tilt (would be called nose down, if this saddle had a nose), you can't actually sit on the saddle. You are perched on a slanted surface, your pelvis is always trying to slide forward and off the saddle, and you are forced to constantly push yourself backwards with your hands and arms. Hence the hand pain.

I cannot tell if that saddle is capable of being level. It looks like it is designed to be tilted forward.

It also looks like it has springs or something under the saddle. Is that right?. That would be pointless, since you can't sit on the saddle anyway. Springs are a sign that a saddle is meant for someone other than a sporting/performance-oriented rider.

Basically, I would try a different saddle.

And, as noted, to reduce pressure on hands, you want to move the saddle rearward, not forward. The saddle manufacturer is giving you bad advice.
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Old 11-27-15 | 09:54 PM
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I went and looked at the webpage of the saddle company. I don't think I'd put anything like that on my bike.
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Old 11-27-15 | 11:22 PM
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AFAIK there's only one noseless saddle that's truly functional. This one:
Revolutionary Noseless Bicycle Saddle -



My riding buddy Mark has used one of these for many years, as long as I've known him. He said this:
“Just returned from Paris-Brest-Paris. Fabulous ride with over 6300 riders. At PBP I had many people ask me about my BiSaddle and several took photos. My BiSaddle worked beautifully. No numbness issues. 750 miles in 80 hours and no issues.”

Yeah, it's expensive. OTOH I just gave away my and my wife's old box of saddles: 17 saddles, all in good condition. Some of those were over $100.
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Old 11-28-15 | 04:29 AM
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The Spiderflex works beautifully. It just puts a little bit too much pressure on my hands. I'll try moving it back.

The bisaddle looks like it is just two small saddles put together. I considered it when purchasing a noseless saddle. But it will still cause some friction.
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Old 01-07-16 | 12:46 AM
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I'd try tilting your bars down a bit. The trainer makes it hard to see what angle they are at, but it appears the ramp (the part of the bar behind the lever) is angled slightly up, while most bars work best with it level or angled down. Even though the hoods will be lower, it may make them fit your hand in a more natural feeling way.
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Old 01-07-16 | 10:56 AM
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Forgive me for questioning the premise of using a noseless saddle. What led you to go this way? I understand you had pain in the scrotum or pubic bone, but what caused that? What kind of saddle were you using when you had the pain?
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Old 01-07-16 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
AFAIK there's only one noseless saddle that's truly functional. This one:
Revolutionary Noseless Bicycle Saddle -



My riding buddy Mark has used one of these for many years, as long as I've known him. He said this:
“Just returned from Paris-Brest-Paris. Fabulous ride with over 6300 riders. At PBP I had many people ask me about my BiSaddle and several took photos. My BiSaddle worked beautifully. No numbness issues. 750 miles in 80 hours and no issues.”
Very cool. I've never felt the need for a noseless saddle, but I feel enlightened to know that someone is making one that you can actually sit on.
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