Correct PSI?
#1
Correct PSI?
Hello!
I have a 2014 Trek X-Caliber 4 29er hardtail with Continental Trail King 2.4 on the front and Mountain King 2.2 on the rear. Though they are a huge step up from the Bontragers it came with, both tires are wider and I'm not sure what the correct PSI i should be running them at is. I'm 5' 11", 240 lbs, and it's a 17.5 frame. Being new to riding mountains instead of flatland, I'd hate to take it out with the new tires and too much air and have a blowout halfway down the trail.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
I have a 2014 Trek X-Caliber 4 29er hardtail with Continental Trail King 2.4 on the front and Mountain King 2.2 on the rear. Though they are a huge step up from the Bontragers it came with, both tires are wider and I'm not sure what the correct PSI i should be running them at is. I'm 5' 11", 240 lbs, and it's a 17.5 frame. Being new to riding mountains instead of flatland, I'd hate to take it out with the new tires and too much air and have a blowout halfway down the trail.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
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Blowouts are more likely due to under-inflation than over inflation. Your tires will have a max inflation pressure printed on the sidewall. Look carefully sometimes it is molded in text and hard to find. Tire that big usually tops out at ~60psi.
#5
Theoretically the correct tire pressure is defined by tire deflection under load. Simply, the lighter the load the less PSI to achieve the desired deflection, the heavier the load the more PSI to achieve the desired deflection.
Tires ALWAYS flatten a little at the bottom and this is desirable. This allows for some contact area as a tire/wheel that doesn't deflect at all will have next to no contact area. Also a tire that doesn't deflect at all is constantly pushing up on every bump and going up rather than forwards takes more energy. This is where flexibility is desirable in a tire. As the tire rotates it is continually deflecting into and then out of the flattened contact patch with the ground. Tires that flex more easily take less energy to rotate and are therefore have less rolling resistance. Now there is a happy medium to be found for best rolling resistance. Too much contact area is a drag but too little contact area also slows you down by forcing the wheel up on every little bump.
Anyway, as a heavier guy I would have more PSI in the tires or the contact patch will be too big and there will be too much stress on the tires. You should be running higher PSI than a featherweight. Try and assess the sidewall flex while you ride.
Anthony
Tires ALWAYS flatten a little at the bottom and this is desirable. This allows for some contact area as a tire/wheel that doesn't deflect at all will have next to no contact area. Also a tire that doesn't deflect at all is constantly pushing up on every bump and going up rather than forwards takes more energy. This is where flexibility is desirable in a tire. As the tire rotates it is continually deflecting into and then out of the flattened contact patch with the ground. Tires that flex more easily take less energy to rotate and are therefore have less rolling resistance. Now there is a happy medium to be found for best rolling resistance. Too much contact area is a drag but too little contact area also slows you down by forcing the wheel up on every little bump.
Anyway, as a heavier guy I would have more PSI in the tires or the contact patch will be too big and there will be too much stress on the tires. You should be running higher PSI than a featherweight. Try and assess the sidewall flex while you ride.
Anthony
#6
Awesome, thanks for the info. I'll get out and see what I need to do to get set up. After my ride this morning, I'm thinking another 5-8lbs in each tire might do me some good.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
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Likes: 106
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Bianchi Infinito (Celeste, of course)
The really crude Stan's formula provides a decent starting point (for mountain bike tires).
Rider weight/7 (-1 front/+2 rear).
In your case, ~35-40 psi is a good starting point. I weight 160, and usually run 18/23, so your 35/40 sounds like a good starting point, then fine tune from there.
Rider weight/7 (-1 front/+2 rear).
In your case, ~35-40 psi is a good starting point. I weight 160, and usually run 18/23, so your 35/40 sounds like a good starting point, then fine tune from there.
#9
The really crude Stan's formula provides a decent starting point (for mountain bike tires).
Rider weight/7 (-1 front/+2 rear).
In your case, ~35-40 psi is a good starting point. I weight 160, and usually run 18/23, so your 35/40 sounds like a good starting point, then fine tune from there.
Rider weight/7 (-1 front/+2 rear).
In your case, ~35-40 psi is a good starting point. I weight 160, and usually run 18/23, so your 35/40 sounds like a good starting point, then fine tune from there.
I'd experiment a little.
Anthony
#10
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 4,400
Likes: 106
From: SF Bay Area
Bikes: Bianchi Infinito (Celeste, of course)
It's meant to be taken as a starting point. Especially for MTB tires, optimum pressure depends a lot on trail conditions, in addition to size and rider weight.
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