OK, well that definitely looks better to my eye. Your knee isn't rising so high at the top of the stroke. How does it feel?
And now I agree that the saddle doesn't look low as is. You must have been rocking in the previous pictures which changed my perception of how high your saddle was.

I'm going to give it a try on the road tonight, just sat on it it didn't feel weird, felt ok, but riding might be different.
I've realised my "KOPS" will be off now as knee 5mm further forward but not moving anything yet.

I really hope I haven't had a stroke, I don't feel weird, can't walk straight I'm a bit wonky but always have been.

The 165mm cranks haven't made any difference, I felt even more wonky!

Definitely need to get a video on the Kickr. I think based on the no improvement of 165mm that the 170 are ok, I'd hope to use them and not then need a new power meter.

Raised saddle 5mm to match what it was like with 170mm and see how that's like oh the way back.

Yes, to measure inseam take your outer pants and shoes off, stand against a wall with your feet maybe 8" apart, put a book between your legs and against the wall, slide it up until it won't go any higher, measure.

Thinking about that saddle some more, it seems to me that one can't hang one sit bone off the saddle and still pedal. The saddle horn will prevent that - unless you're so far forward that you're sitting on it. Then it's possible to slide sideways enough to hang one side off. Seems to me that if you just push back and the saddle horn is between your legs as you pedal, both sides will have to be on the saddle. Unless the saddle is too narrow, that is. What's your sit bone measurement and how wide is your current saddle?

While riding, if you sight your top tube against your down tube, and your stem against your front wheel, does it seem that your head is on the centerline of the bike or are you tilted one way or the other?

The right side and left side photos are interesting in that the leg you complain off being off the saddle looks shorter than the leg that's fine. Might you have a bit of scoliosis? Are your hips tilted a bit?

KOPS is not a thing. Set your saddle set-back by balance, not by where the pedals are. My fit primer is here: https://www.bikeforums.net/21296948-post3.html

In your last pictures, you are still toes down on the left side, but the right side doesn't look as bad. Your seat is too high.

I can't see front wheel axle when on the bike, my head seems in the right position.

I'll try the saddle lower, just feels crazy like my right leg wants to be snapped when Its lowered.

As an example of the orientation when I'm on the bike, I'm sort of tilted to the right it seems, if I force myself straight, both knees roughly same distance from top tube I'm a lot more stable but I can't keep it forced there.

This photo isn't ideal but it's pretty much the direction my legs are when on the bike, I endevour to get a video done tomorrow.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...844306d5e7.jpg

You definitely looked better with the 165mm cranks.

Your talk of using a power meter is definitely a big clue. Your trying to push to hard/use too much power without first having sorted out your own personal balance/asymmetry issues.
You must slow down and sort out your balance/asymmetry issues as a matter of priority.
I really can't see you fixing this while going full steam ahead. Even PRO athletes have to take a step back sometimes.

I'm terrible with Giving all the info.

Would panniers effect bike position?

As I mention I started properly cycling again in April last year, before that I was still getting miles but purely commuter miles, I had 2 panniers, the left side had clothes in, the right pannier has 17" laptop, d lock and various other bits.

When it came to cycling without panniers I was all over the place.

I've since been balancing the panniers out.

Could that also cause an imbalance riding with a very heavy pannier on one side?

Re the 165mm cranks and the 5mm power effective saddle height. I found it ok coasting and hardly using any effort, but if it came to any slight inclines I just felt that I couldn't get the pedals around and even stablise myself.

​​​​​​In the process of moving house so it's making it hard for me to set the turbo up and do a video, perhaps I'll manage today.

I'll try shimming the left by 2 then 4mm

Power wise last check FTP over 1 hour was 287W, the rides I've been doing I've not been able to get power down due to bike instability and average power of 200w which is an easy ride.

Ok hopefully these help.

Uploaded 4 videos 1 for each side, um sorry about the shorts, won't be using those outside anymore apart from with thermals over the top!

Hope they are clear enough.
Next video


Next Video


Last Video


Here is a video from 9 years ago in TT position, thought it may be of use as you can see my position then.


And thus one

https://youtu.be/z8bEfBAnA3g



Ive looked at my videos and also after watching a video on saddle height on Cam Nicholls YouTube channel it would seem I'm "snatching" at the bottom which would suggest maybe my saddle is indeed too high ?

Questions with that is why have I never had any instability like this in the past despite having up to 74.5cm saddle height rather than the 73 it's at now and how would a reputable bike fitter not identify this?

Also when I tried those shorter cranks as mentioned the effect of half a cm saddle difference was crippling me on a 4% incline wobbling all over and no power.

Should I try 1cm lower on the turbo?
Should I try widening stance with the 2mm extenders?

How big of a shim would I need for the left side ? I tried a 2mm shim that sloped down from the right but it didn't seem to make much difference at all.

Video with saddle 1cm power, sorry can only do one side as GF wants me to go to town.

Saddle wise I don't feel I'm sat too far back I think I've just got a fat arse.

However 1cm lower saddle would mean reach needs lengthen as seat will need to go back will it not? Then bars down 1cm so possibly shorter stem?

How does 1cm lower look? It doesn't feel much different on the trainer but my left leg seemed to not be pointing to the top tube it seems

Saddle 1cm lower (pc screen on is the pic 1cm higher and off is today 1cm lower)

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...677481feb5.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...edf255c4f2.jpg


Here is saddle 1.5cm lower (really started to feel not keen at this height)



Height 1.5cm lower front view ( knee position very much same as 1cm lower)

Moved it back but my reach is certainly too far now, I can tilt the stem I guess.

From the right side view it seems my right leg is too low?

Impressions after taking it on the road, feels like some straining on my left quad just before the knee.

Definitely seem a bit more stable, power wise can't say my power readings are lower.

https://youtu.be/X8yS0ydWeiE

I've raised my stem 5mm (initially lowered 1cm) to counter the extra reach and saddle down 2mm and back 5mm.

After riding, the left leg is still actually just as bad pointing in, going to try slanted wedge again.

2 pics below at 1cm lower, saddle slightly tilted back up and a botched attempt at a shim on the left leg, equates to between 3 to 5mm stack on the shims as there is a slight tilt.

The picture with the monitor on is before any adjustments were made and was at 1cm higher.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...e06291caab.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...500abfdf31.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...fcc5824f55.jpg

I've also moved saddle offset as far left as it'll go

I'm going to revert my bike position to the one I have measurements from when I had a fit in 2015.

​​​​​​I'm going to contact the company to see if they have records of the salad I bought and the width.

The shimming that I ghetto botched defenitly makes my leg feel a bit better in respect to power delivery especially on an incline. It does however make me feel like I partially slip on my right side also from time to time.

This slipping is still occuring and even re adjusting the saddle to the cm higher position doesn't change the effect.

The ghetto botched shim is 5mm one side and around 3.5mm the other as it's slightly tilted.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikefor...4544857b61.jpg

Since this sideways slip started and the last post I've been focusing more on ignoring this sideways slip, I've also moved my cleats back about 3mm on the pedals, from "5.5" to "5" on my Giro shoes that seemed to give a bit more comfort.

I removed those makeshift shims, tried some proper ones and they made no impact on my stavility, the custom carbon soles didn't have any impact either so removed them and went back to how the shoes were before.

I've also been looking at stretches especially the IT Band, using some of these exercises on here

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/fit...-need-to-know/

What I noticed is my left IT Band is incredibly tight compared to my right, the same exercise I can get my right knee about 5cm closer to my face than the left.

Could this be the culprit all along would it have such impact on stability ?

Oh the flip my my left hamstring is able to stretch slightly more than my right hamstring.

My hamstring and IT bands are both evidently very tight.

I don't think the sideways slip is anything you want to ignore. That ought to be addressed. How I don't know other than get with a good fitter if you can go the more expensive up front route.

I read Steve Hogg's site quite a bit when trying to address my own issues. He trains people in his fit methods, and it might be worth finding one near you to take a look at you. They show a person listed for the UK if that's your area.

If you are going to persist here, then tell us again what your inseam is and what your saddle height is from top of the saddle where you sit to the top of the pedal from it's furthest position away from the saddle.

Sure, which is why you need to set your seat height according to your personal flexibility, according to the way your body interfaces with the bike when in motion. Drop your saddle, or continue to fight it and have discomfort.