Hello guys,

i have found a used frame in a good price,model is merida road 880 like this https://i1.mtbx.com.ar/foto/o/12/18/1...7_meridaaa.JPG
and the size of it is Large 57-59 as it says on the sticker.Due to its slopping geometry it's like a 58 size frame in traditional geometry.
https://www2.merida-bikes.com/en_US/p...metry_2008.pdf

now my point is that im 1,76cm tall with a 79,5cm inseam and 149cm torso.that puts me around a 52 size frame with 53cm top tube,right?

will it be possible to fit to that large merida frame wich has 57,5cm top tube using a short stem or something else?or it will be unable and too nervous to reach/handle?

thanks in advance.

some info anyone pls?want my height in inches maybe?

Your height in cm is impossible as written. Your inseam in cm is about 31". Mine is around 33". I am 5'10". I should probably ride a 58cm frame. I found a 62cm old style horizontal top tube frame. In shoes I can just about stand over it. That's called "French Fit" by the Competitive Cyclist website. I use the stem it came with, 110mm and it fits (fingertips reach the handlebar with elbow at saddle nose) because the top tube is around 57.5cm. On another bike with a sloping top tube I was able to make an XL frame fit, by using a 90mm stem. Maybe a longer stem would make it less nervous and maybe not. Its a tandem. Tandems feel weird no matter what you do. I suspect you will be able to ride the big frame. Why not plug all your information into the Competitive Cyclist Fit Calculator. If your frame is bigger than what CC calls "French Fit" then you might have problems with it.

H

I'm having a very hard time parsing what it is you're typing... but going off of what Leisesturm has written it seems you're a candidate for french fit... which is a good guideline if you've got a much larger torso in proportion (as I do), at 5'9" I ride 53-57cm frames depending on geometry and most critically TT length. To be honest, my advice to you is this.. get your butt down to the LBS, throw you leg over a few bikes and see what fits for standover and has room for you to hang out over the TT without being too stretched out (unless of course you want a road or tracking racing geometry frame setup to specs), and not too cramped up i.g. hitting your knees on your own chest.

i used the calculator on the competitive cyclist as shown.these are the results

EDDY FIT
Top Tube Length 55 - 55.4 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 52.7 - 53.2 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 54.3 - 54.8 Cm
Stem Length 9.7 - 10.3 Cm
BB Saddle Position 75.4 - 77.4 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 52.3 - 52.9 Cm
Saddle Setback 3.3 - 3.7 Cm
Seatpost Type Not Setback

COMPETITIVE FIT
Top Tube Length 55 - 55.4 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 51.5 - 52 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 53.1 - 53.6 Cm
Stem Length 10.8 - 11.4 Cm
BB Saddle Position 76.2 - 78.2 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 51.5 - 52.1 Cm
Saddle Setback 2.1 - 2.5 Cm
Seatpost Type Not Setback

FRENCH FIT
Top Tube Length 56.2 - 56.6 Cm
Seat Tube Range CC 54.4 - 54.9 Cm
Seat Tube Range CT 56 - 56.5 Cm
Stem Length 9.9 - 10.5 Cm
BB Saddle Position 73.7 - 75.7 Cm
Saddle Handlebar 54 - 54.6 Cm
Saddle Setback 2.8 - 3.2 Cm
Seatpost Type Setback

so what do you think about now?it seems that if a 55,4cm top tube frame with a 10cm stem is ideal for me,then a 57,5cm frame with an 8cm stem will do the job,but a little more twitchy and nervous steering due to the shorter length of the stem.am i right?or is it completely wrong that assumption?

i apologise for my english but its not my native language!

Personally, I don't think you will be able to notice the difference between a 10cm stem and an 80cm stem. You will get used to it in a very short time. That said, neither the other poster or myself are going outside of what is pretty much the outside of the fit envelope. You are past those limits if even the French Fit guidelines don't envelop what you are working with. Do you really 'have' to have this frame? Bicycle frames are hardly rare things. It's nice and all but I have to think there are others around that are at least as nice and will fit you better.

H

it is just a second hand frame that a guy sells in my hometown.no post,hand to hand trade.just because im on a tight budget,ive been looking for quite a long time to come across to a "bargain" from the used ones.if i had the extra money ill take and some other frames into account,that suit more properly to me.but this one costs around 80euros-(quite rare price) and some other usually come in the 300-500 price scale.

(another question.is it my idea or not that the modern frame industry wants to put the rider into an as smaller frame as possible (ex.compact geometry) in order to make some profit from the lesser amount of material used to build that "smaller" frame?

for instance the official site of merida suits me for a small frame,with 53 toptube)

all and all,bottom line,if you were me,you think you could deal with that larger size merida frame,or it will be a definetely "no"?

i have to mention that i allready have an everyday beater/commuter for around the city,with 1'' slicks on 26''wheels.(ex steel mtb with rigid fork)

thanks for your time and your replies to all.

I think it's going to be a horrible fit, but I actually think you should buy it, try it, and learn the lessons that way, because thinking your way through isn't getting you where you need to be.

thats ok sir,you dont have to be mean or something.i surely know its big,thats how i got into this forum otherwise i would have bought it and messing around with it allready.just because ive seen many riders choose a smaller size and "add" that extra legth through a longer stem,i thought about the same could happen in the other way..as a matter of fact putting a 130-140mm stem is quite long i suppose but seems "acceptable".
for the case it shows that im 1 to 2 cm off.(57,5cm instead of 55,6 or 56,6).thats about one fifth of an inch.

I thinks it's desirable to have a longer stem and a smaller frame. I really like how a long stem helps the bike track in straight line. It's also important to have enough weight over the front wheel.

All the sizing guidelines try to leave some space between your body and the top tube of the bike. The French Fit concept essentially eliminates that gap as much as a person can stand. The ultimate limit is when the bar presses against the bones of your pelvis. To assess that you need to take your inseam and add that thickness of your shoes - that is the upper limit of your standover height.

Then you either need to build this frame or analyze it mathematically to see what the standover height will be.

Math-wise, you need to know the wheel radius, bottom bracket height, seat tube length (c-t), seat tube angle, and the top tube slope angle.

on french fit i suppose that we talk for classic frame geometry with parallel to the ground top tube.that indeed will be a really discomfort bike to ride.but in the sloping geometry,even the larger frames are "low" to standover height.

i know that its wrong to ride a misfit frame,but is there anyone to tell me that "you know i ride a big frame for my size and i put a shorter stem and is nice"
i mean,due to the calculations im 2 cm the most off.i respect that,but i cannot assume how much of a difference will finally have a 55cm tt+10cm stem VS 57cm tt+8cm stem.

is that so tragically wrong?or is it some sort of dogmatic knowledge like the mix of campagnolo/shimano groups that in theory everybody shouts that they dont work,but im sure very few tried in real life to see what happens.and from my personal experience a 10sp chorus brake shifters work perfect on 8sp shimano hyperglide cassete with tourney derailleur with NO modifications.front and rear derailleur shift perfect.is that hilarius,or the arrogance and ignorance of some people is more?

If you feel like the entire bike industry is conspiring against you, buy the big frame, slap on a Miche front derailleur, Microshift rear derailleur, SRAM crankset, Shimano hubs, Tektro brakes, Campagnolo brifters (all used, of course) and STICK IT TO THE MAN!!

i see although an english speaking forum the same ironical and improductive forum spirit goes on..internationaly.

anyway,you misunderstood me and missed my point totally.i didnt say to make a circus bicycle with 10 different brands.dont put words in my mouth.im just heavily against the dogmatic marketing bs that every brand tries to sell.and of course i make fun of the people who bite that bs and buy blindly.

i really hope that youre not just a typical consumer cyclist but you have a critical and orthological thinking.

Find a different frame. Riding something that big will suck.

I'm OK with my 57x57 frame , IDK about you fitting on yours from Data , were you in the LBS, here, people could let you test ride stuff.

Oh, I got your point; you construct conspiracies about the industry selling small frames to save material costs and component manufacturers dispensing misleading information about compatibility just to justify your cheapness in buying an €80 frame even though you know damn well it's big, and you expect us, me, to indulge your foolishness. I don't think so, chief.

Just remember: if the frame can't be made to fit you, it won't be a "good deal" at any price. If you don't *know* it'll work out, it's better to buy a whole bike that you can try out.

man once again you messed the things up.you write very dramatic staff and sail away from the story.in fact you know i dont ride 48size and talking about 58size frame,its just the next bigger size.but again i didnt insist on that at all.i just wanted a factual answer from someone who tried out,away from what the calculators and the stores say.but then again,i respect that in some extent.if something is big,then its big.period.i dont doubt that in any manner.

in any way,surely the company wants to save every bit of a penny can from even 1 mm of each frame.thats called profit.thats why they "invented" compact geometry with slopping tubes etc.its not you who benefits from that,its the company that puts out 3-4 sizes to cover the shortest to the tallest guy out there.and say to you "comon buy the small size be a "pro"(why to order you the exact size,it costs to us-profit) and put a 3 feet long stem and itll be ok (profit again).haha.

and fyi my current steel everyday beater (ex-mtb) counts 57 effective top tube(its a bit slopping though 15 years old.)and rides decent on quill and a llittle riser bar.
and of course,there are compatibillity windows just like in my example,the campy-shimano mix.if you search youll find some more.its not a shame to mix what youve got,disputing the "official" sacred marketing manuals,and find another path your self.its called creativity.(in fact when i searched the net for shimagnolo mix,only one said that 10sp shifter to 8sp work.the rest higly doubt and discourage any sort of mixing,and some others used adapters that some cases require).see for yourself.
have a nice day.

whats your numbers in brief?inseam,torso,height.

surely this is the best option.in fact i was in serius doubt about this frame from the beggining.

IDK I dont fit bikes online . top of saddle to pedal Axle at 35"

stem is a Cinelli1R , 9.5cm . its a 90 steel Pinarello CX frame , set up like my Touring bike ..


I'm 5'9" at 67 thats down an inch from 30 years ago..

ok thanks.!steel is real!

Would you get the reference, if I mentioned Hedvig and the Angry Inch?

H