Maximum Weight Allowed
#1
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Joined: May 2016
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Maximum Weight Allowed
Hi All
What is the maximum weight people are carrying whilst touring on Folding bikes?
I see manufacturers limits on average are about 105-110 Kg's
Surely combined weight of rider and luggage ect is more than that weight limit.
I have seen riders of about 95Kg's with at least 30Kg of gear.
Has anyone got some feedback for me please.
We have the Dahon Vitesse D8's
Thanks
Craig
What is the maximum weight people are carrying whilst touring on Folding bikes?
I see manufacturers limits on average are about 105-110 Kg's
Surely combined weight of rider and luggage ect is more than that weight limit.
I have seen riders of about 95Kg's with at least 30Kg of gear.
Has anyone got some feedback for me please.
We have the Dahon Vitesse D8's
Thanks
Craig
#2
Banned
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 1,021
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From: Olney Illinois USA
Bikes: to many
Its lawyer talk to a degree. But should be adhered too in order to keep warranty in check as well as to be able to ride with a safety margin. If you want to load down the bike with another 70 lbs and are above the guidelines for the bike already, get a trailer instead of loading up the bike
thor
p.s. who rides with 70 lbs of stuff on his bike ?
thor
p.s. who rides with 70 lbs of stuff on his bike ?
#3
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Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,239
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
I agree with thor that 30kg seems like a very heavy touring load. I may occasionally carry that much for the few miles home from the grocery store but it would be unusually heavy. My touring load is generally under 10 kg.
The nominal weight limit is going to be a rough guideline since there will be lots of individual variation. A rider who jumps curbs, frequently rides fast over rough roads, and/or has a strong mashing pedal style will put much more stress on the bike than someone with a smooth pedal style who rides on smooth surfaces and is careful to steer around potholes. So the latter type of rider may well exceed the nominal weight limit without any problems while the former type could be under the limit but experience repeated mechanical failures.
The nominal weight limit is going to be a rough guideline since there will be lots of individual variation. A rider who jumps curbs, frequently rides fast over rough roads, and/or has a strong mashing pedal style will put much more stress on the bike than someone with a smooth pedal style who rides on smooth surfaces and is careful to steer around potholes. So the latter type of rider may well exceed the nominal weight limit without any problems while the former type could be under the limit but experience repeated mechanical failures.
#4
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 792
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From: New England
Bikes: Brompton M6R, Specialized Tricross Comp, Ellsworth Isis, Dahon Speed P8
I ride a Brompton - 10kg (incl ~3.5kg of food/water) is my maximum out of the single front touring pannier, but I'm an ultra-lighter. When wild camping, I'll load an extra ~3kg of water on my rear rack toward the end of the day (5L of water covers: shower, dinner, B'fast, cocktails, dental hygiene, and next morning's ride). Consider ultra-light camping gear, it pairs so well with folding bikes which can be taken nearly anywhere (I haven't used a lock since getting the B).
#5
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 43,586
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From: NW,Oregon Coast
Bikes: 8
There is This Guy.. https://www.brompton.com/News/Posts/2...-Pamir-Highway
And check out Herr Stuke's load , front bag + a backpack standing up on the rear rack, behind the seat..
'Path less pedaled' copied that..
IDK how you intend to carry your gear, do share..
...
And check out Herr Stuke's load , front bag + a backpack standing up on the rear rack, behind the seat..
'Path less pedaled' copied that..
IDK how you intend to carry your gear, do share..
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-08-16 at 06:19 PM.
#6
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 444
From: Henrico, VA
Bikes: Origami Gazelle, Origami Crane 8, Origami Cricket 7
Yes, there is a factor of safety built into those numbers, but keep in mind that it not the static weight of the rider that will cause the failure, it is the impact load when the rider and gear hit a pothole or land off of a curb. If you are going to exceed the recommended weight, be diligent to avoid (or minimize) impact loads on the bike.
__________________
Paul Pinigis
Owner of Origami Bicycle Company
Paul Pinigis
Owner of Origami Bicycle Company
#7
This should not be difficult, just sit down in a comfy chair and look at your bike:
WHERE you put the load on the bike is the main issue. On top of a loong seatpost or stem is not the smartest place to put extra weight. If you want to add luggage the best place is as close to the wheels as possible. A front rack atatched over the wheels has got its own weight limits. If you want to gamble by adding more you need to take a look at the rack its self, the screws atatching the rack to the bike and the "ears" on the front fork the rack is atatched to. Also wheel axel and rim and also if your tyres can carry the load.
Same for the back, only on many folders 60% of the riders weight ends up on the rear wheel.
Then you need to decide if the drivetrain (like chain and stuff) is strong enough to withstand the extra force needed to take this rig forwards.
Last question is if the engine (you) can take the extra weight.
Personally I would use a trailer and a IGH bike if I wanted to carry a lot.
You may want to look into how to reduce the weight of your gear instead of how much load the bike can take, unless it is a once in a while thing and a short distance. I bet the bike can take a lot of weight if you just walk it.
You should search the forums as this has been discussed several times.
WHERE you put the load on the bike is the main issue. On top of a loong seatpost or stem is not the smartest place to put extra weight. If you want to add luggage the best place is as close to the wheels as possible. A front rack atatched over the wheels has got its own weight limits. If you want to gamble by adding more you need to take a look at the rack its self, the screws atatching the rack to the bike and the "ears" on the front fork the rack is atatched to. Also wheel axel and rim and also if your tyres can carry the load.
Same for the back, only on many folders 60% of the riders weight ends up on the rear wheel.
Then you need to decide if the drivetrain (like chain and stuff) is strong enough to withstand the extra force needed to take this rig forwards.
Last question is if the engine (you) can take the extra weight.
Personally I would use a trailer and a IGH bike if I wanted to carry a lot.
You may want to look into how to reduce the weight of your gear instead of how much load the bike can take, unless it is a once in a while thing and a short distance. I bet the bike can take a lot of weight if you just walk it.
You should search the forums as this has been discussed several times.
#8
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Joined: Sep 2015
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I agree with Thor on the trailer option. The IGH option is exactly the way I would never go.
The gravel roadies have gone to bags that hang on the bike and frame rather than racks because with the constant vibration the racks break. Monster seat bags and frame bags carry most of the load. They are carrying small loads.
Heavy loads take a big toll on wheels. The spokes on the freewheel side break most offen.
The gravel roadies have gone to bags that hang on the bike and frame rather than racks because with the constant vibration the racks break. Monster seat bags and frame bags carry most of the load. They are carrying small loads.
Heavy loads take a big toll on wheels. The spokes on the freewheel side break most offen.
#9
Full Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 473
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From: casper wy usa
Bikes: brompton sl, surly steamroller, fuji track, gary fisher bmx minivelo etc
I like my 3 speed SA hubs for their simplicity, their perfect shifting and the fact they have nothing to dangle down and catch up road filth. I like the range of an 8 speed derailleur and its lightness. I have never used a belt drive but the theory seems sound. It would be interesting to have a test of 2 identical bikes, one with belt and IGH and another with an 8 speed derailleur subjected to a lengthy test with a lot of abuse...rain, snow, sub zero temps, good roads and bad, etc and see which works best after 10,000 miles or more.
#11
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Joined: Sep 2015
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igh vs derailleur
The negatives outweigh that---for me. Weight, drag in the system, pain changing flat, narrower range than 11/32, initial cost, inability to get fixed if broken internals. I love the easily repaired nature of a derailleur bike.
Loaded touring pulling a trailer, since that is what he already has that is what I would stick with.
Back onto the initial questions. Go very light and look closely at the gravel road pack to adapt them to your use.
Rick
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