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Old 04-16-07, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by makeinu
Is your hub properly aligned?
https://www.sturmey-archer.com/pdfs/XRF8.pdf
As far as adjusting the hub (lining up the arrow) as mentioned on that instruction, yes. I've done it quite a few times with no improvement.
I'll try putting it back to its original configuration and see if the problem goes away. I'm just kinda afraid to find out that my investments is a failure. I might end with parts that I have no use for.
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Old 04-16-07, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by DVC45
As far as adjusting the hub (lining up the arrow) as mentioned on that instruction, yes. I've done it quite a few times with no improvement.
I'll try putting it back to its original configuration and see if the problem goes away. I'm just kinda afraid to find out that my investments is a failure. I might end with parts that I have no use for.
Can you tell whether it's the chain or the hub that's slipping? If it's the hub then you might try putting the arrow in a different position from what the manual instructs. The previous owner of my VIIIH claimed that the hub slipped when it was aligned as per the instruction manual and that he had to align the arrow with the stripe closer to the front of the bike (rather than the stripe in the middle) to prevent slipping. This hasn't been my experience (I align it as instructed by the manual and I experience no slipping), but you might try it anyway.
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Old 04-16-07, 10:17 PM
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My SA 8sp hub also has some slippage problems, which is due to sloppy shifting on my part. The internal hub ratchets get hooked on an edge, appearing to engage properly, then after a while will slip and engage properly. 6th gear is worst. If I pay attention to slacking off while shifting, no problem.

However, that may not be your problem. I would have thought that is not dependent on having a chain tensioner. Unless the tensioner somehow interferes with slacking off while shifting.

Another reason may be the tensioner: It reduces the number of teeth that are engaged on the chain, plus it introduces the possibility of the chain slipping over the teeth tops while the tensioner gives the required slack for that to happen. This will tend to happen if the chain is new and the cog a bit worn. Did you replace the chain when you installed the tensioner, due to needing a longer one? Well there may be the problem. Get a new cog. I know, it sucks. This problem should not happen only in 2nd and 6th gears.
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Old 04-16-07, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by jur
My SA 8sp hub also has some slippage problems, which is due to sloppy shifting on my part. The internal hub ratchets get hooked on an edge, appearing to engage properly, then after a while will slip and engage properly. 6th gear is worst. If I pay attention to slacking off while shifting, no problem.
When mine slips, I find that it's often due to me gripping the shifter and moving it slightly. If I take my hands off the shifter, I have not noticed it ever slipping on me. That's why I don't like grip shifters. It's too easy to cause inadvertant shifting.

Last edited by SesameCrunch; 04-17-07 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 04-17-07, 12:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jur
My SA 8sp hub also has some slippage problems, which is due to sloppy shifting on my part. The internal hub ratchets get hooked on an edge, appearing to engage properly, then after a while will slip and engage properly. 6th gear is worst. If I pay attention to slacking off while shifting, no problem.
Originally Posted by SesameCrunch
When mine slips, I find that it's often due to me gripping the shifter and moving it slightly. If I take my hands off the shifter, I have not noticed it ever slipping on me. That's why I don't like grip shifters. It's too easy to cause inadvertantly shifting.
Yeah I concur:
-Torque on the shifter, even if it isn't enough to click to the next gear, will induce slipping.
-Shifting while pedaling, even if it initially seems to take, will eventually lead to a slip (the manual warns against this).
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Old 04-17-07, 07:55 AM
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Switching to smaller chain ring in VIII-H

Were you able to retain the chain guard?
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Old 04-17-07, 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Polaris43
The stock chainring resulted in way too tall gears for me. I changed it to a 40T and it's much better now.

Other have changed their chainring to a 39T with good results.
Were you able to retain stock chain guard?

If not, do you know of an after-market chain guard that works (I'd rather not make the fix of installing a road double crankset and filing down the teeth on the outer chain ring.)
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Old 04-17-07, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by SesameCrunch
When mine slips, I find that it's often due to me gripping the shifter and moving it slightly. If I take my hands off the shifter, I have not noticed it ever slipping on me. That's why I don't like grip shifters. It's too easy to cause inadvertantly shifting.

+1 and it doesn't take much. The lightest torque on the shifter will cause the hub to slip.

This is a bigger problem on my Mini as it's practically impossible not to have your hand on the shifter (unless you let go completely or hang on with two fingers). For this reason, I plan to get a new pair of grips and move the shifter inboard, even it it lools a little strange.
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Old 04-17-07, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by newbie58
Were you able to retain stock chain guard?

If not, do you know of an after-market chain guard that works (I'd rather not make the fix of installing a road double crankset and filing down the teeth on the outer chain ring.)
No, the chain guard doesn't fit the smaller chain ring. I'm running sans chain guard. So far it hasn't been a problem. If I'm wearing long pants / jeans, I use one of those dorky velcro straps to keep the leg out of the the chain ring.
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Old 04-17-07, 12:55 PM
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I will try all your suggestions and hopefully the anoying problems would go away. Its raining here right now, so more likely I'll be able to do it tommorow.

What kind/brand of replacement trigger shifter do I need, if I find the need to switch to that?
Thanks again!
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Old 04-17-07, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DVC45
I will try all your suggestions and hopefully the anoying problems would go away. Its raining here right now, so more likely I'll be able to do it tommorow.

What kind/brand of replacement trigger shifter do I need, if I find the need to switch to that?
Thanks again!

According to Sheldon Brown, there aren't any other shifters compatible with the SA 8 speed hub...

I asked him in a personal email a couple of months ago. I was specifically looking at brifters or other shifters that could be mounted on TT type bars.

If you find something other than the twist grip shifter, let me know.
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Old 04-17-07, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Polaris43
According to Sheldon Brown, there aren't any other shifters compatible with the SA 8 speed hub...

I asked him in a personal email a couple of months ago. I was specifically looking at brifters or other shifters that could be mounted on TT type bars.

If you find something other than the twist grip shifter, let me know.
SA will come out with a trigger shifter for these soon....not sure when.

Thanks,
Yan
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Old 04-17-07, 05:11 PM
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FS Report from the Field

The trip to Italy sounds just very similar to the plans which I had for my FS when I purchased it about 5 weeks ago.

Everyone I have shown it to has commented on its obvious quality and ingenious design. I found the quality control to be satisfactory as well. After unfolding, a little adjustment to the derailleur indexing and the machine was ready to go. Even the brakes were adjusted correctly right out of the box.

And I love the quickness of the 20x20 format.

However, my ride from SLC to Ogden on Sunday (roughly 50 miles) left me in a little perplexity.

If I were choosing a name for the little guy, I would call it CRACKLE.

From about the 10 mile point, the bike never ceased to make metal-on-metal noises - and these were accompanied with vibrations coming up through the handlebars (not a happy experience when you're alone out on the road).

It was a light tapping from the front end, in cadence with the pedals turning. (I verified that it was not the cyclocomputer magnet hitting the sensor ... and besides, the cadence was wrong.)

Near the end of the journey, the rear shock started to groan as well - so I was a real one man band when I pulled into the hotel. And not too pleased, because point-to-point travel - with airline travel to and from attractive locations - was the entire purpose of buying the bike.

It's the connection with the pedal cadence that really throws me. Could it be stiction in the front suspension? Could the hinge in the handlebar stem be loose?

Any thoughts about what could be going on?
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Old 04-17-07, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate1952

From about the 10 mile point, the bike never ceased to make metal-on-metal noises - and these were accompanied with vibrations coming up through the handlebars (not a happy experience when you're alone out on the road).
I think it is impossible to diagnose this problem without seeing the bike. However you seemed to diagnose it properly as metal on metal noise. Putiing grease on all metal contact points should resolve the issue.

Thanks,
Yan
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Old 04-17-07, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Nate1952
It was a light tapping from the front end, in cadence with the pedals turning. (I verified that it was not the cyclocomputer magnet hitting the sensor ... and besides, the cadence was wrong.)
Any thoughts about what could be going on?
Check and see if the hanger-thingie below the bottom bracket isn't bent and hitting one of your crank arms or your chainring. I managed to bend mine and was mystified about the noise until I saw the crank arm hit the bracket.

As for the metal creaking noises, make sure the frame and handlebar quick releases are tight enough.
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Old 04-17-07, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Pine Cone
Check and see if the hanger-thingie below the bottom bracket isn't bent and hitting one of your crank arms or your chainring. I managed to bend mine and was mystified about the noise until I saw the crank arm hit the bracket.
If the cadence matches the pedal stroke - could it be the bottom bracket? That's an area that really needs greasing, as has been discussed extensively on this thread. That could produce a metallic sound...
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Old 04-17-07, 05:51 PM
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Front suspension dodgy?
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Old 04-17-07, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DVC45
Hi to all! ' have a few questions....

I have installed a 39T chainring and a Singleator on my VIIH hoping I can switch back and forth between that and the 48T chainring original. So far, it hadn't been great. After many adjustments on both the Singleator and the hub, its still keep on slipping on me, especially when I stand on the pedals. It usually happens on 6th and 2nd gear.
I know it was mentioned along this thread that the internal hub set-up is not for stomping and mashing (no aggresive ridding), but I'm wondering if the Singleator got something to do with it, or am I just experiencing something that's unique to internal hub set up?
Just to avoid any misunderstanding, repeat your tests with hand not touching the shifter. If it still slips, my money is still on the chain skipping. My shifter is difinitely not that touchy that the merest pressure will induce slipping.
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Old 04-17-07, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Polaris43
No, the chain guard doesn't fit the smaller chain ring. I'm running sans chain guard. So far it hasn't been a problem. If I'm wearing long pants / jeans, I use one of those dorky velcro straps to keep the leg out of the the chain ring.
Thanks, but I always wear long pants, and I'm tired of using trouser clips. Would prefer a static (i.e., chain guard) fix, even if it's just getting a plastics shop to cut and drill a Lexan disc. Any ideas for a DIY fix?
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Old 04-18-07, 10:18 AM
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Hey Yan,

I searched through this thread for wheelbase and got an estimate for a 20" Downtube as 42.5 inches. Do you have a wheelbase estimate for the Mini?

Thanks.
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Old 04-18-07, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DVC45
That leads to my next question..... is the 39T the most ideal gear for the VIIIH? Would a 42T be a better replacement or will it feel almost like the original 48T?
And most importantly, what meassurements/dimensions should I be looking at? I see 42Tx110mm, 39Tx130mm, BCD....?

I'm looking at this https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Ultegr...024628&sr=1-10 as a possible replacement. Will this work?
Thanks in advance!
I've been experimenting with chainring sizes for the VIIIH on Sheldon Brown's gear calculator (at www.sheldonbrown.com), trying to replicate the "bail-out" gear on my long-distance touring bike (i.e., 20 gear-inches) without getting too far below that bike's high of 117 gear-inches. The stock set-up on the new VIIIH - 25t cog with 46t chainring - looks fairly good, but I'll probably go with the smallest 130mm BCD chainring I can find, which is 38t. Not much of a high, but oh that low! (As you may know, the first thing to do on an older VIIIH is to replace the 23t cog with the 25t, which is the largest available for the SA-8. See how that works before fooling around with chainrings.)
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Old 04-18-07, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by makeinu
The previous owner of my VIIIH claimed that the hub slipped when it was aligned as per the instruction manual and that he had to align the arrow with the stripe closer to the front of the bike (rather than the stripe in the middle) to prevent slipping.
This might be the fix.
I tried stomping hard on it and making sure my hand is nowhere near the shifter and it did not slip at all. But its a short <1mi ride, so I'll see if the problem trully disappeared for good this weekend. I'm hoping to do a good 20mi ride this weekend.

I think I still gonna want a trigger shifter though.

Last edited by DVC45; 04-18-07 at 07:47 PM.
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Old 04-18-07, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by newbie58
I've been experimenting with chainring sizes for the VIIIH on Sheldon Brown's gear calculator (at www.sheldonbrown.com), trying to replicate the "bail-out" gear on my long-distance touring bike (i.e., 20 gear-inches) without getting too far below that bike's high of 117 gear-inches. The stock set-up on the new VIIIH - 25t cog with 46t chainring - looks fairly good, but I'll probably go with the smallest 130mm BCD chainring I can find, which is 38t. Not much of a high, but oh that low! (As you may know, the first thing to do on an older VIIIH is to replace the 23t cog with the 25t, which is the largest available for the SA-8. See how that works before fooling around with chainrings.)
Thanks, I might try that someday, but as for now, I really like the 39t ring.
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Old 04-19-07, 09:16 AM
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Great Pics

Originally Posted by mcgurme
Hi
I will get more photos up on the site soon - the best pictures came last, when we went over to the island of Giglio.
We really enjoyed your pics on Flickr. Great landscape shots. Brought back memories as we have been most the places. Isn't Sienna a wonderful place for a change? The bikes are set up very nicely. Looks good. Where did you store the travel cases while you were touring?
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Old 04-19-07, 09:36 AM
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Don't expect much change:
48/25 * 20 = 38.4
48/23 * 20 = 41.7

less than 1 mph at normal cadence

40/23 * 20 = 34.8
24/23 * 20 = 20.9
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