Swift folders
12-03-11 | 05:19 PM
#2901
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 3
been lurking on this thread for months now and finally built up my own custom swift. after riding a birdy for the past 9 years i wanted something simpler with 406 wheels. kinda went crazy making a super light (super as in not bank breaking ultra) single speed swift. still considering making it into a fixie, but frankly, i love coasting.
so i picked up the frame personally from peter in Brooklyn on a business trip. that man is a saint. aluminum frame custom painted white with suguino cranks and single speed conversion kit. the fork is the Trigon carbon fork that kaito used on his swift. got it from performer.com.tw and they powder coated it white for free. the first one actually got crushed in the mail and cracked. george and nellie from performer sent me a new one right away, again a pair of saints. picked up the pair of kinetix wheels and white kojaks from dahon spares. they are incredibly light. the 74mm to 100mm axle nuts are from speedmatrix depot. the stem, guidonnet lever and cabling is from velo orange. nitto rb-21's, white brooks-esque saddle, titanium QR skewers, crazy light kcnc seatpost and white tektro 556's are all trawled from the ebay. funny thing about the front brake, it was about 2mm too short on one side and i thought i could get away with it. well, i didn't and popped the front tube and tore out the side wall of the front tire. the guys at my local (urbane cyclist in Toronto) fixed me up with a little hand milled front brake extender that dropped it down by a cm. they also dug up an orange stelvio tire that looks pretty damn sharp. finally the pedals are from fyxation and a set of straps are on the way.
as a final touch peter told me that tradition is you can only put on the swift folder label after your first ride. decided instead of just putting on the decal horizontally i'd wrap it around the top tube on an angle. has a nice swiss design touch to it.
now the only problem i have is that there isn't much more i can mess with the bike. had a really good time building this one up, guess i'll just have to ride it.
or get another.
oh forgot to mention, it weighs just under 17lbs.
12-03-11 | 11:21 PM
#2902
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 862
Likes: 0
From: Arizona
Bikes: Swift folder, single speed
Hi all, I've had an aluminum Swift for several years -- but one detail that still bugs me a bit is having to find the right height/position when I re-set the seat post.
I've been using pencil marks, but those rub off.
And I'm reluctant to use a Sharpie because I've noticed that my preferred height seems to change -- perhaps because I have a Brooks saddle, which presumably continues to settle in.
Can somebody suggest a good seat post that has hash marks, and would be a good match for the Swift -- or is there some other simple solution?
Thanks!
I've been using pencil marks, but those rub off.
And I'm reluctant to use a Sharpie because I've noticed that my preferred height seems to change -- perhaps because I have a Brooks saddle, which presumably continues to settle in.
Can somebody suggest a good seat post that has hash marks, and would be a good match for the Swift -- or is there some other simple solution?
Thanks!
Just use the sharpie/marker. They're not permanent. You can easily erase them with oil or wd-40 or alcohol or something - forget exactly what works, maybe all three.
12-06-11 | 04:46 PM
#2903
my nice bike is at home
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 970
Likes: 37
From: Brooklyn, NY USA
Bikes: 2011 BMC Race Machine / 2012 BMC Road Machine / Trek 2300 / '90's Merlin/ '70's Raleigh 20/ Ti-'swift' folder / Erickson w/S&S couplers
Two Questions about the Swift:
What is the difference between a single speed and the stock Swift? Frames are the same, right/
Also what is a Swift "grouppo" worth? Meaning all the parts (minus the BB and head-set) Besides the frame.
Any ideas appreciated.
ps. a simple hose clamp will hold the seat post position.
What is the difference between a single speed and the stock Swift? Frames are the same, right/
Also what is a Swift "grouppo" worth? Meaning all the parts (minus the BB and head-set) Besides the frame.
Any ideas appreciated.
ps. a simple hose clamp will hold the seat post position.
12-06-11 | 04:59 PM
#2904
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 323
Likes: 2
From: Carlisle, in England's Lake District, just a few miles south of the border with Scotland.
Bikes: A Bianchi C2C road bike, a steel framed touring bike and a Xootr Swift folder which has made the rest redundant!
ps. a simple hose clamp will hold the seat post position.[/QUOTE]
Yes, but you will not be able to slide the seat post through the frame to hold the folded bike together as it was designed to do.
Yes, but you will not be able to slide the seat post through the frame to hold the folded bike together as it was designed to do.
12-07-11 | 01:27 PM
#2905
my nice bike is at home
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 970
Likes: 37
From: Brooklyn, NY USA
Bikes: 2011 BMC Race Machine / 2012 BMC Road Machine / Trek 2300 / '90's Merlin/ '70's Raleigh 20/ Ti-'swift' folder / Erickson w/S&S couplers
Thanks for the clarifying that, I don't own one yet so I guess I will learn soon enough. How about marking the seat post with a Dremel tool, or file?
What is the single speed conversion kit exactly?
What is the single speed conversion kit exactly?
12-07-11 | 03:39 PM
#2907
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley, CA
Bikes: 2016 Public M8i, 2009 Dahon Boardwalk S1
12-07-11 | 07:44 PM
#2908
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
From: seacoast nh / suburban hartford
Bikes: swift folder(alfine 8, marathon plus, crossrack, klickfix freepack)
west coast guy, ask HPM if they have single speed. it will cost more definitely, but in case you want it
12-07-11 | 08:30 PM
#2909
Senior Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,095
Likes: 12
From: Pacific Northwest
Bikes: Too many....................
They start at $950 https://hpm.catoregon.org/?page_id=214
12-07-11 | 09:03 PM
#2910
my nice bike is at home
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 970
Likes: 37
From: Brooklyn, NY USA
Bikes: 2011 BMC Race Machine / 2012 BMC Road Machine / Trek 2300 / '90's Merlin/ '70's Raleigh 20/ Ti-'swift' folder / Erickson w/S&S couplers
Here is a stock Swift on Ebay. You could always ditch the gears buy a can of black paint and go single speed... right?
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=160694416256
https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=160694416256
12-17-11 | 08:39 PM
#2911
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
fed up with 451s
I bought my (first) Swift from a guy who had upgraded it with drop bars and an improved (Capreo) drivetrain. brifters won't drive the stock v-brakes, so he used sidepulls, which won't reach 406 rims, so he put 451s on the bike. he sold me on these rims as faster.
many miles later, I'm not convinced. moreover, I'm frustrated by the lack of tire options, the difficulty of finding presta-valve tubes at the LBS, etc. I've broken two spokes on the 451s but none on the 406s (could be coincidence I suppose). I also miss the power of the v-brakes at times. plus, I've got a matching set of 406 Marathons and Marathon Winters on my flat-bar Swift that I'd love to use on my drop-bar Swift. not a huge fan of the Primo Comets on my 451s.
unfortunately my sidepull brakes are just barely too short for the pads to rest on the 406 rims. so what are my options? I can think of a couple of possibilities.
1. get a set of V-brakes for the drop-bar folder and use the TravelAgent hack to drive them from the brifters (a new Tiagra set). I've heard mixed reviews on TravelAgent though.
2. find a set of extra-long-reach calipers so I can place the brake shoes to grab the 406 rim. I currently use Tektro R556, and but it looks like the 984 would be long enough.
either way, I need to get a 406 rear wheel built with a Capreo hub. Harris Cyclery will do that for a not-outrageous sum.
thoughts on the two options above, or is there a possibility I'm missing? in a perfect world I'd get a carbon fork with a disc brake mount and not worry about the back brake :-)
many miles later, I'm not convinced. moreover, I'm frustrated by the lack of tire options, the difficulty of finding presta-valve tubes at the LBS, etc. I've broken two spokes on the 451s but none on the 406s (could be coincidence I suppose). I also miss the power of the v-brakes at times. plus, I've got a matching set of 406 Marathons and Marathon Winters on my flat-bar Swift that I'd love to use on my drop-bar Swift. not a huge fan of the Primo Comets on my 451s.
unfortunately my sidepull brakes are just barely too short for the pads to rest on the 406 rims. so what are my options? I can think of a couple of possibilities.
1. get a set of V-brakes for the drop-bar folder and use the TravelAgent hack to drive them from the brifters (a new Tiagra set). I've heard mixed reviews on TravelAgent though.
2. find a set of extra-long-reach calipers so I can place the brake shoes to grab the 406 rim. I currently use Tektro R556, and but it looks like the 984 would be long enough.
either way, I need to get a 406 rear wheel built with a Capreo hub. Harris Cyclery will do that for a not-outrageous sum.
thoughts on the two options above, or is there a possibility I'm missing? in a perfect world I'd get a carbon fork with a disc brake mount and not worry about the back brake :-)
Last edited by mtalinm; 12-17-11 at 08:59 PM.
12-17-11 | 09:31 PM
#2913
Senior Member
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,393
Likes: 10
From: Albany, WA
Perhaps we need a survey of 451 tyres. I have not been short of choices. I have them from knobbly 1-3/8" to slick in 1-1/8". The racing BMX crowd have quite a good range for treaded, while for slicks there are Schwable Duranos, Panaracer Minits, Primo Comets, and I'm sure I forget a few plus not mention lots.
12-18-11 | 02:48 AM
#2914
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
and yes, there are 451 out there but no studded I could find. and I've had bad luck with primo comets (flats, bulges). love my marathons and marathon winters but they are 406 only
Last edited by mtalinm; 12-18-11 at 02:52 AM.
12-18-11 | 02:53 AM
#2915
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Lewes, UK
Bikes: Brompton, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, Epic Hardtail
many miles later, I'm not convinced. moreover, I'm frustrated by the lack of tire options, the difficulty of finding presta-valve tubes at the LBS, etc. I've broken two spokes on the 451s but none on the 406s (could be coincidence I suppose). I also miss the power of the v-brakes at times. plus, I've got a matching set of 406 Marathons and Marathon Winters on my flat-bar Swift that I'd love to use on my drop-bar Swift. not a huge fan of the Primo Comets on my 451s...
V-brakes are ace but a well-set up pair of road calipers (decent brake blocks, keep rims clean) should provide all the stopping power any of us need. I've also ran travel adjusters and there worked find for me. I run v-brakes in the rear with travel adjusers but I don't actually use the gearing on them - i just use them in 1:1 mode as a smoother way to get the cable to turn the corner. This means I have to pull my dura-ace levers twice as far but that gives more power, and there is enough travel in the levers for this to work fine.
For me, the reason I now run 406 wheels is all down to tire choice. I love kojaks for racing, and Marathon Racers are nearly as fast but a lot more durable. I run both of these tubeless for even lower rolling resistance and less flats. If schwalbe made the Kojaks in 451 I would probably run 451s again just cos it helps on the gearing, and I would hope they would also roll slightly better. In reality I think 406's have been faster for me than 451s is because the tires I use on them are better that the 451 tyres I've tried (only the duranos, perhaps IRC or comets would be better).
Spokes will break on any wheel. One factor is the bumps you ride over and the speed you do it at. Another is the volume and pressure of the tires and how much suspension they give - narrow tyres run at high pressure will stress the wheel when you're riding fast over bumps/potholes. Depending on all those factors you need a wheel strong enough to cope and this is impacted by the number of and quality of spokes you have. I have broken many spokes on my swift on my Uriel 520 and Kinetix pro 406 wheels - the common factor is fewer, paired stiff spokes. I've never broken any spokes on the stock wheels or my 24-spoke 451 wheels which have even spacing and regular spokes. Sounds like your 451 wheels are just not strong enough for the way you ride and you could get a 406 wheel built up with the same problem if you're not careful.
12-18-11 | 08:28 AM
#2916
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
thanks Ricky. I'm a fattie & so need all the stopping power I can get. thus I also run my tires full inflated, so I get lots of bumps from the road and probably do more damage to the 451 b/c I can't find wide tires with high psi. the Marathons are 1.5" with max 100, which are fabulous but only 406.
can I ask what you mean by "don't actually use the gearing" on the travel adjusters? What do you use in the front, centerpulls? why not travel agent in both places? this is now the decision I'm wrestling with. also, I read somewhere about the new Shimano STIs having more travel - which sounds like the case with your DA. I have brand new Tiagra shifters, obviously not in the same league but I wonder whether they might have enough travel to drive V-brakes by themselves...
<btw, I have to say this is an awesome forum>
can I ask what you mean by "don't actually use the gearing" on the travel adjusters? What do you use in the front, centerpulls? why not travel agent in both places? this is now the decision I'm wrestling with. also, I read somewhere about the new Shimano STIs having more travel - which sounds like the case with your DA. I have brand new Tiagra shifters, obviously not in the same league but I wonder whether they might have enough travel to drive V-brakes by themselves...
<btw, I have to say this is an awesome forum>
12-18-11 | 10:43 AM
#2917
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Lewes, UK
Bikes: Brompton, Scott Spark, Giant Anthem, Epic Hardtail
One the front I use a caliper brake. I run an airnimal chameleon carbon fork at the front which is made for 520 wheels and no caliper is long enough to stretch to a 406 (and there's no v-brake or disc mounts) so I've built a bracket to attach to the fork's brake mount and create a new brake mount lower down, from where I run a standard road caliper. It's simpler than it sounds - the bracket is just a couple of thick tie-bars running vertically with an aluminum block at the bottom exactly the same length as the original brake mount with a hole drilled down the middle. The fork saves a lot of weight and when I run my 406 kinetic pro wheels (less than 1kg a pair) the bike is very light (but I have to avoid potholes!).
12-21-11 | 04:44 PM
#2918
in cog neato
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: Missouri
I've had good results using so-called "mini" v-brakes with road brake levers on my cyclocross/allrounder bike.
My setup is a pair of Tektro RX5 mini-v's with Sora 8-speed brifters, in combination with soft Koolstop "Salmon" brake pads. I run either 35c turf knobbies offroad, or 35c touring tires on-road. I also occassionally run fenders with the touring tires and have no clearance issues other than a slight rubbing of the brake boot on the rear fender.
Now Tektro themselves recommend a linear-pull (pulls more cable) lever with the mini-v's, but I've had no problems with the above setup.
I should also mention I'm right at the Clydesdale borderline at 202 lbs
Just a couple of caveats. The brake pads have to be set close to the rims due to the shorter cable pull of road vs. v-brake levers, so you have to keep your rims fairly true to prevent the pads rubbing. As a result of the pads being closer to the rims, you may not be able to easily release the brake noodle when removing the wheels. I use a brake noodle with a built-in barrel adjuster backed out about a third to allow more cable slack when removing wheels with large-ish tires.
My setup is a pair of Tektro RX5 mini-v's with Sora 8-speed brifters, in combination with soft Koolstop "Salmon" brake pads. I run either 35c turf knobbies offroad, or 35c touring tires on-road. I also occassionally run fenders with the touring tires and have no clearance issues other than a slight rubbing of the brake boot on the rear fender.
Now Tektro themselves recommend a linear-pull (pulls more cable) lever with the mini-v's, but I've had no problems with the above setup.
I should also mention I'm right at the Clydesdale borderline at 202 lbs
Just a couple of caveats. The brake pads have to be set close to the rims due to the shorter cable pull of road vs. v-brake levers, so you have to keep your rims fairly true to prevent the pads rubbing. As a result of the pads being closer to the rims, you may not be able to easily release the brake noodle when removing the wheels. I use a brake noodle with a built-in barrel adjuster backed out about a third to allow more cable slack when removing wheels with large-ish tires.
12-31-11 | 12:40 PM
#2919
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
Well, I tried some cantis but not much grab on the rims. maybe a professonal could adjust them better but don't want to be at th mercy of the LBS.
Just put a pair of mini-Vs on. They look great, but the problem is that the bosses on the Swift are low enough that the tire doesn't really clear them. wth my studded tires, the noodle clamp actually drags on the studs when I brake. and no hope of putting fenders on.
so it looks like TravelAgent or just gve up.
Just put a pair of mini-Vs on. They look great, but the problem is that the bosses on the Swift are low enough that the tire doesn't really clear them. wth my studded tires, the noodle clamp actually drags on the studs when I brake. and no hope of putting fenders on.
so it looks like TravelAgent or just gve up.
12-31-11 | 12:41 PM
#2920
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
Well, I tried some cantis but not much grab on the rims. maybe a professonal could adjust them better but don't want to be at th mercy of the LBS.
Just put a pair of mini-Vs on. I'm not too encouraged. the front one rubs on the tire - if the bosses were even 2mm higher it would be ok. and the back has lttle or no grab. oh well. i guess I can try cantis again or travel agent
Just put a pair of mini-Vs on. I'm not too encouraged. the front one rubs on the tire - if the bosses were even 2mm higher it would be ok. and the back has lttle or no grab. oh well. i guess I can try cantis again or travel agent
Last edited by mtalinm; 01-01-12 at 08:22 AM.
12-31-11 | 01:15 PM
#2921
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 3
For your enjoyment...pics of my upgraded Swift are below.
Some notable changes:
451 "speedmax" wheels from thorusa
tiagra sti shifters (I had sitting around
)
105 rear derailleur
ultegra crankset
kcnc lite wing seatpost
vuelta 60t chainring
tektro cr720 cantilever brakes w/ "v-brake extenders" from thorusa
Some notable changes:
451 "speedmax" wheels from thorusa
tiagra sti shifters (I had sitting around
)105 rear derailleur
ultegra crankset
kcnc lite wing seatpost
vuelta 60t chainring
tektro cr720 cantilever brakes w/ "v-brake extenders" from thorusa
12-31-11 | 05:22 PM
#2922
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,215
Likes: 0
From: Westwood MA (just south of Boston)
Bikes: 2009 Trek Soho
beauty. have a very similar setup - same shfters, derailleur, similar (105) crankset.
so how are the cantis? I put an avid shorty ultimate on front and it just wouldn't grab enough for my liking. you able to pedal with those wide brakes in back?
so how are the cantis? I put an avid shorty ultimate on front and it just wouldn't grab enough for my liking. you able to pedal with those wide brakes in back?
For your enjoyment...pics of my upgraded Swift are below.
Some notable changes:
451 "speedmax" wheels from thorusa
tiagra sti shifters (I had sitting around)
105 rear derailleur
ultegra crankset
kcnc lite wing seatpost
vuelta 60t chainring
tektro cr720 cantilever brakes w/ "v-brake extenders" from thorusa
Some notable changes:
451 "speedmax" wheels from thorusa
tiagra sti shifters (I had sitting around
)105 rear derailleur
ultegra crankset
kcnc lite wing seatpost
vuelta 60t chainring
tektro cr720 cantilever brakes w/ "v-brake extenders" from thorusa
01-01-12 | 03:09 PM
#2923
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Does the 60t chainring come near the chainstays? I have an 82t chainring. Unfortunately, it rubs the chainstays and can't be used. I have thought about putting on a 65t or 73t from a recumbent (sold at Hostel Shoppe). I replaced the stock chainring with a 56t on the outside and mounted a 39t on the inside. I then got a 41mm pipe and pounded the clamp of a front derailleur to fit the outsize seat tube and mounted the shifter on the seatstay just above the derailleur. Pretty simple and it works great. With a larger chainring, I would probably put an idler pully at the back end of the cage to maintain the trapezoid when shifting from one chainring to the other. Sheldon Brown says a 69t chainring will match gear inches with a 700c wheel with a 53t, so my Swift can do major road riding. I have gone on a 300 mile trip with my current modifications and came back only slightly more tired. I replaced the rear cassette with an 11-32t 8 speed. David
01-02-12 | 10:19 AM
#2925
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 55
Likes: 3
Does the 60t chainring come near the chainstays? I have an 82t chainring. Unfortunately, it rubs the chainstays and can't be used. I have thought about putting on a 65t or 73t from a recumbent (sold at Hostel Shoppe). I replaced the stock chainring with a 56t on the outside and mounted a 39t on the inside. I then got a 41mm pipe and pounded the clamp of a front derailleur to fit the outsize seat tube and mounted the shifter on the seatstay just above the derailleur. Pretty simple and it works great. With a larger chainring, I would probably put an idler pully at the back end of the cage to maintain the trapezoid when shifting from one chainring to the other. Sheldon Brown says a 69t chainring will match gear inches with a 700c wheel with a 53t, so my Swift can do major road riding. I have gone on a 300 mile trip with my current modifications and came back only slightly more tired. I replaced the rear cassette with an 11-32t 8 speed. David
The canti's don't grab so well on my setup either, but it was a compromise I was willing to make. My feet are very close to hitting the canti's and I do occasionaly strike them but not when I'm in my normal rhythmic pedaling motion.