Deore XTs parallel push. They work like a champ and no issues with clearance.

I've been riding the Swift fixed since I got the frame from Peter last year. I really liked it that way, but I have a great 700c fixed gear, and don't feel the need for two such drivetrains. So I got the Nexus 8sp premium, laced it to a Sun CR18 406 rim, and now own my first internal gear bike.

I love it. The Nexus is well chronicled on BikeForums, so there weren't any surprises: It's heavy, there's some drag, but it's not noticeable when riding. Overall, I'm liking it a lot, thought I've got less than 20 miles on it. I started with a 52x16, but I'm going to switch the cog to an 18. If anything, there's too much range between top and low gear for me, given the wide gaps. The low is already lower than my geared road bike, but I'd rather have more low than high, as once I get over 30 mph I'm happy to coast.

I'm using the revo shifter, but will try to get the Alfine trigger model if/when it becomes available. The revo doesn't feel super precise. But then again, I kinda want to try drop bars on the Swift (I'm using a flipped Nitto Dove currently, similar to Albatross, North Road, etc.), and then the Revo will probably be the only option.

The Swift is now my dedicated wet weather bike, as it's got the PB Freddy fenders. It'll also continue to see nighttime commute use, and of course is the one to take when travelling, which is why I bought it originally. I plan on keeping the fixed rear wheel a little longer, though.

Jack

can someone recommend a cheap rear freewheel that would accept a 13t or 12t? I am getting a fixed Swift from Peter but would like to play with a SS.

nashbar

would that be just the hub or the whole wheel?

I was wondering the same thing - sent an email and got a very quick reply - here's what I asked -

"i'm hoping to buy a new swift in the next month or so (no big hurry). is it true that the design is being tweaked a little for better folding? if so, when will that change make it into the Xootr frame and/or the custom frames with the hub option?"

here's what he answered -
"I'm updating the design for a smaller suitcase-friendly fold, but there's no firm arrival date- maybe the fall. These frames will be steel and made in the US, but will be heavier than the aluminum ones. Let me know if you want to wait.

I'll have more black Swift frames for custom builds in about a month (all sold out now), and you can get a blue or silver Xootr Swift from their warehouse tomorrow."

I've seen several different estimates for the comparative weights of the aluminum vs steel frames. Anybody have something relatively definitive on the weight difference between a xootr stock vs a steel with nexus hub vs a xootr/aluminum frame with nexus hub?

how exciting! it's like the iphone for folder freaks.

Any information given on anticipated price? Some people had written before about something in the $700 range for a frame, but that's not for the standard aluminum frames as I just got one a week ago for the normal $390 price.

Also curious about the minimum folded dimensions of the new steel variety.

I have just changed the cassette, to lower the gearing, of my Swift and had a wrestling match to remove and re-fit the rear wheel. I am not a novice at cycle mechanics as I have built and maintained several lightwieght machines but this is the first time I have had to deal with track ends - where the rear wheel slides out backwards. Maybe the job was more difficult because I'm a church goer and didn't have the necceassary vocabulary on hand, but removing and re-fitting the wheel while balancing the bike and trying to get the chain over the cogs was a nightmare. I don't fancy trying this by the side of the road in the rain when I need to change an inner tube!

Is there an easy way of doing this?

I have a quick release post rack, but the screw isn't long enough. Does anyone know if i can get a longer one?

Oh yeah, got a swift, pics coming soon.

It is a nightmare. Trying to change a fixie with regular horizontal dropouts is worse!

But for track ends, I've found using a chain tensioner helps: tightening the chain tensioner allows you to set chain tension and lock down the axle nut at the same time. (James Swift uses a tensioner if you're not sure what one looks like.)

Some steps:
1. Install wheel, tighten chain tensioner
2. When chain is sufficiently tight, tighten axle nut (not too tight)
3. Center wheel, then tighten axle nut on opposite side.
4. Tighten axle nuts a little at a time alternating sides until tight.

If you have a quick disconnect link for your chain, it is easier to simply disconnect and remove the chain for wheel removal. Less hassle overall. You get dirty hands in both cases anyway.

Fixing punctures: I haven't had one yet, but I intend to stand the bike upside down and pop the tube out the side and use a patch kit instead of changing tubes.

If you really do not want to remove the chain, make sure the highest gear is selected (smallest cog). Then pull the derailer backwards while pulling the wheel out. This requires about 17 hands. 21 hands for putting wheel back.

[edit]Oh yeah, I just remembered another trick ICW last paragraph: derail the chain from the front to give lots of chain slack to work with.

I believe I recall someone else having issues with the seatpost slipping. Well, I am having this problem now. So what are the solutions to stopping the seatpost from slipping? And I have tried to clamp the quick releases as tight as I could get them, but they still allow the post to slip. Also keep in mind that I would still like to use quick releases and not binder bolts.
Thanks in advanve for the help.

Firstly, don't use grease on the seatpost. Get yourself a bottle of Boeshield T9 Bicycle lube. Use it as a solvent to wipe the seatpost clean of any grease or other lube you may have used before. When the post is squeaky clean, apply a light coat of Boeshield (I find that a bit of plastic bag around your finger makes for a good applicator) and let dry for 2 hrs. Once dry, wipe-off any excess. You should also clean the barrel of the seat tubes. An old sock wrapped around a broom stick works for this. When the tubes are good and clean, insert the seatpost, apply 2 drops of Boeshield to the QRs, then tighten (excessive force not required).

Any UK reader found a supplier for this Boeshield T9? I've scoured Google to no avail!

Peter says you can also use 3-in-1 oil if Boeshield is considered unobtainium in your area. Since Boeshield is essentially a wax lube, I assume you could also use any other available wax chain lube. Anything but grease.

Finally got my Swift. Pics on link: https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...16#post4796016

So the first day I rode the bike, I was thinking "Maybe I should remove the rear brakes". Turns out one of the brakes on the front got loose (not my fault) while I was on singlespeed (not that i know how skid anyway) and were it not for those rear brakes I would have ran an old lady into a fence. *phew!*

First impressions: I love this bike. The gearing is perfect for me, my old one was a 700c with 42x15 (i think that was over 75). Now it's just over 69 (56x16 on 1.5 20 inches anyone?) and is much more forgiving on the knees. I have really bad knees, hence the rear brakes. I can definitely feel the bumps more on those small tires, but I also feel the vibrating more, which I feel the aluminum frame is the suspect. Anyway, this is my most expensive bike and I get paranoid locking it outside (boss won't let me bring it in. Starbucks managers are jerks), so I decided to tape it up. Still looked too good in my eyes, decided to paint it. Alas, the paint job attracts more attention than before but I like it too much. It's got my fingerprints on it and a purple cow.

I'm not too fond of the diacompe levers, they don't feel responsive enough. I'd much prefer having the brake levers inside, but the guys at the shop said none would be compatible. Might do what James does and get one of those levers from nashbar. Looking back, maybe I should have gotten cantis. Looking to get more handlebars in the future and definitely a suitcase so I can take it with me to Cali. Let me know what you guys think!

Gotta say...one of the most unique Swift mods I've seen. Pretty damn sweet.

What's the front chainline with the (? size) Sugino BB?

A little tip with skipping/skidding: coordinate lifting the back tire while flicking the rear of the bike to the side, as if initiating a fishtail. It's tough to skid the big rubber (compared to your typical 700x25C tires), so you'll need to apply significant backpedal force with the rear foot, and don't expect huge skids. Expect your knees to ache for the first week, but once the muscles adapt and get stronger, it won't be a problem.

To trackstand: this will take lots of practice, but well worth it. Don't be afraid to really crank the bars. cuz you'll need to. Crank them until the front wheel is practically perpendicular to the frame. Contrary to traditionally methods, I find the easiest way to trackstand on a Swift is with the dominant foot away from the direction you point the front wheel. It's easier to trackstand seated. Look up and straight ahead, and not down at your front wheel (or you'll fall...trust me).

Paul, I have some white lighting lube at home (which is a waxed-based lube like boeshield, and is readily available here in the UK). I also have a slipping seatpost problem, which up to now I have cured by excessive clamping force at the QRs. I will try the white lighting and let you know how I get on.

(1 week later.....)
OK I've tried the white lightning and it didn't work at all. I cleaned the post and seat tube beforehand. Initially I applied it quite thin & rode for a couple of days - it slipped very easily. Then I repeated with a much more liberal coating - the result is that it was no better. In both cases I tightened both QRs as tightly as I am physically able.

Previously I was using grease. With grease I can stop it slipping but I still need extreme tighness on the QRs which makes it difficult to fold and unfold quickly.

So I would say that I still don't have a solution. Perhaps I could look for QRs with longer leverage.

HOLY CRAP!!!

I am having THE most difficult time packing the swift into a suitcase. I can't seem to separate the two parts of the frame. I'm using an allen key and a 10 mm socket on the other side, been turning for minutes and nothing happens!!! SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!!! I'm trying to take the bike to San Fran next week.

mosquito, the Swift goes into an nFlite suitcase ONLY one way, shown on the Swift website.
https://www.xootr.com/xootr/swift/packing.shtml

The key orientation is that the QR end of the maintube must be on top, pointed NNE, with the crank under and on the right side of the suitcase. I also take the pivot bolt out of the RT/maintube joint, and use a master link chain. The handlepost and bars lay on top of the folded frame, and the front wheel as the crown of the pyramid. Seatpost along the long edge of the suitcase, with the saddle removed. Use mylar, bubble pack, cardboard, etc., to separate the layers. There's enough room for shoes, tools, etc.

ALWAYS put a picture of how the bike is packed on top of the "pile", under the suitcase straps. TSA will seriously f**k it up without the pix, e.g., cannot close the lid so they tape the gap with loads of TSA tape. I put numbers on cardboard sheets so if TSA does more than lift and peek, there's a good chance they can get it back together.

Yes, but I'm trying to pack it into an oyster. I have two swifts with me, one already separated and CAN fit into the oyster. The other one won't separate for some darn reason.

You are unable to remove the pivot bolt?

Correct. I'm turning and turning but it doesn't come out. I called David from bfold, he says the nut might be stripped and that I might have to drill the bolt. Bah! We shall see.

mosquito: Tap the bolt out with someting thin once the nut is off. It's just a snug fit in the holes.