Oxygen Concentrator Set-up?
#1
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kVp & m*s
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From: Upstate NY
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Oxygen Concentrator Set-up?
I'm starting a new thread specifically about the oxygen concentrator I bought over the weekend. The one I have has a brass barb, not a B fitting. I picked up some clear hose and a christmas tree adaptor needed to run this type, but I have a couple of questions.
How much clear hose should I use? The smallest amount possible? 50 feet? The hose I have is 7 feet.
And are the plastic christmas tree adaptors up to the task of brazing? This I might just have to find out for myself.
Here are a few pictures. Just a mock up, obviously the adaptor won't be fitted straight to the torch.
IMG_1198.jpg
IMG_1199.jpg
IMG_1200.jpg
IMG_1201.jpg
How much clear hose should I use? The smallest amount possible? 50 feet? The hose I have is 7 feet.
And are the plastic christmas tree adaptors up to the task of brazing? This I might just have to find out for myself.
Here are a few pictures. Just a mock up, obviously the adaptor won't be fitted straight to the torch.
IMG_1198.jpg
IMG_1199.jpg
IMG_1200.jpg
IMG_1201.jpg
#3
framebuilder


Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,790
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From: Niles, Michigan
I recommend a different set up. It isn’t clear to me from your picture if you are connecting the O2 to your torch handle? In that case I don’t think you want to do that because it makes it awkward to connect the other now single propane hose to your torch handle. I use 2 sets of hoses so that my propane tank and concentrator are not right next to where I am working. I also like to have my hoses coming down from the ceiling so they are not dragging on the floor getting dirty and worse having hot flux drop on them. I like light hoses so I have the TM Technologies light hose connected to my torch handle. Because this hose is only 10’ long it doesn’t get my tank far enough away with a ceiling route. Since brazing does not require lots of gas I use the smallest 3/16” rubber hose (T grade for propane and not R grade for only acetylene). Most likely a standard 12.5’ length is long enough. It is to this hose that you can connect your clear hose. It will require a male/male size B connector to connect the female end of the rubber hose to the female end of your plastic christmas tree. By the way I don’t bother with a flashback arrestor on the oxygen side since it reduces the flow and there isn’t a pressurized tank to explode. I do put a flashback arrestor on the propane tank side between the regulator and the hose.
I'll attach a picture of my shop set up so you can get a clearer idea of what I do. Of course I have several stations including a line to my oxyacetylene tanks that are out of view. You will see I have 3 different torch handles available for my frame building class students to try out.
I'll attach a picture of my shop set up so you can get a clearer idea of what I do. Of course I have several stations including a line to my oxyacetylene tanks that are out of view. You will see I have 3 different torch handles available for my frame building class students to try out.
#4
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Kyle- I would think you'd want to limit the amount of the clear O bearing hose to only as much as is needed to then connect to a "standard" hose so that the hoses you are swinging about during brazing are of the same weight/flexibility, are tied together and so the clear hose is far from the hot stuff. Maybe only a foot or so? hanging from the ceiling is a really smart idea. But as you know I don't do that. partially because I want my set up to be tidily secured/coiled up for the many days/months between their use, I use that area of my shop for other projects and you found out how low my basement ceiling is
Last concern I have with the clear hose use is the slip fits onto/into the greenish connectors (Christmas tree?). Granted the danger of pulling an O hose out of it's fitting isn't like doing so with your fuel but loosing O at the flame during brazing sucks and makes all your prep work to naught. Perhaps a larger clear hose that slides over, not into, the green adapter and a surrounding clamp (hose clamp?) to further secure it to the adapter. Andy
Last concern I have with the clear hose use is the slip fits onto/into the greenish connectors (Christmas tree?). Granted the danger of pulling an O hose out of it's fitting isn't like doing so with your fuel but loosing O at the flame during brazing sucks and makes all your prep work to naught. Perhaps a larger clear hose that slides over, not into, the green adapter and a surrounding clamp (hose clamp?) to further secure it to the adapter. Andy
#6
Thread Starter
kVp & m*s
Joined: Jul 2015
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From: Upstate NY
Bikes: Schwinn Paramount... someday
Sorry if my post was confusing. The picture was just to show how the Christmas tree adapter connects. I will be using a B to B connector and welding hose.
The hose slips over the adapter and it fits snug. It takes some force to pull it off. I was thinking about using a hose clamp for added security.
I was just curious as to how much clear hose to run. From the picture and from Andy's post it seems less is better.
The hose slips over the adapter and it fits snug. It takes some force to pull it off. I was thinking about using a hose clamp for added security.
I was just curious as to how much clear hose to run. From the picture and from Andy's post it seems less is better.
#7
framebuilder


Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 1,790
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From: Niles, Michigan
Kyle, the length of my clear hose coming out of the concentrator is just long enough to reach the propane tank so the 2 ends of the rubber hose can conveniently reach both the flashback arrestor on the propane regulator and the plastic christmas tree. Or to put it another way the length of the clear hose is about as long as the distance between the concentrator and the propane tank are apart.
I certainly agree with you that the barbs on the plastic piece and concentrator hold strong enough that there is no need for an additional hose clamp. The further up the barbs the clear hose is pushed the harder they are to come off. I've never had any problem with mine coming loose.
Let us know how the everything works once you get it set up.
I certainly agree with you that the barbs on the plastic piece and concentrator hold strong enough that there is no need for an additional hose clamp. The further up the barbs the clear hose is pushed the harder they are to come off. I've never had any problem with mine coming loose.
Let us know how the everything works once you get it set up.





