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Clunker

Old 08-06-21, 06:44 PM
  #1  
shelgame
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Clunker

I've been having some pain in my left wrist while riding; especially over bumps (I mostly ride on the pavement these days). I found out from my Dr. that it is not a recurring sprain, but a bone disease. And, it's not going to get better.

So, I decided I need a more upright bike, to take the pressure off my hands. I don't really like any of the hybrid style bikes at all. But, I do like the look of a 'clunker' with BMX bars. So, I picked up a vintage Ross Super Deluxe frame. It looks pretty cool; dual 1-pc top tubes/seat stays and cross tubes. But, it weighs a ton. And, the bottom bracket is really pretty high. Meaning I'd have to get even taller bars that I had hoped to make it work.

On the other hand, I do have a bunch of tubing I was going to use to build an all-rounder (basically a flat-bar gravel bike). What if I just pulled the curved top tubes off the Ross, tossed the rest, and built up a basically new frame? The Ross is mostly brazed together (no fillets) so should be pretty easy to remove those curved tubes. The new bike will be fillet brazed.

Will be much lighter ( though maybe not 'light' per se), have resonable geom, and still look the part.

This is where I'm at...

The Ross Super Deluxe (not mine, my frame is maroon and rust colored);


My all-rounder bike with the Ross top tubes/seat stays:


This is my current frankenbuild that will provide the other necessary components (1x9 drivetrain, Shimano XT 4-pot calipers, wheels, tires, disks, etc.). This frame is an Acces XCL 26er with a Mr. Ride rigid fork running 700c-35 Conti Double Fighter tires.



I'm open to criticism and ridicule, if necessary.

Last edited by shelgame; 08-06-21 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 08-06-21, 07:23 PM
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unterhausen
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It's not that hard to bend tubes like that, all you need is some plywood to make a form.
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Old 08-07-21, 04:56 PM
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I think that's a great project. You can probably lower the BB a bit (270 mm height) with 170mm crank arms.
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Old 08-08-21, 02:19 AM
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guy153
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Originally Posted by unterhausen View Post
It's not that hard to bend tubes like that, all you need is some plywood to make a form.
How do you do this? I'm still looking for a good redneck way to bend SS-- the exact bend you want depends on the frame size and the tyre size so it's something it would be nice to be able to do.
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Old 08-08-21, 04:47 AM
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Originally Posted by guy153 View Post
How do you do this? I'm still looking for a good redneck way to bend SS-- the exact bend you want depends on the frame size and the tyre size so it's something it would be nice to be able to do.
This is how I did it before I had real tubing benders and I still use them for more gentle bends. It is 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood with a 45 degree angle routed on one edge and then glued and screwed together into a "V" shape. You need some way to hold the tube at the end and just a bit of muscle to pull the tube and bend it around the form. I made 2 of them in different sizes.


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Old 08-08-21, 04:49 PM
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Thanks! This is really useful. Seat-stays usually only need very gentle bends anyway.
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Old 08-13-21, 06:47 PM
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SkinGriz
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I hope to see this to fruition.
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Old 08-16-21, 02:02 PM
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I ordered a DT as the only piece I had was too short; and some cable guides. Looks like they shipped today from Nova.

I also had to order some 80/20 bits for my jig. Should be in this week. Maybe start the fun next week sometime...
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Old 08-16-21, 03:12 PM
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I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
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Old 08-24-21, 12:04 PM
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shelgame
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Originally Posted by headwind15 View Post
I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
I use the ergo grips now, but they don't really help. It's not a pressure or angle type of ergonomic issue. Basically, any impact type forces just really cause a sharp pain.

I'm not sure if I want BMX type bars for a more upright position, or go full cruiser style with swept back bars. I don't really like the cruiser style; but that might be where I end up.
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Old 08-26-21, 11:11 AM
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I originally planned to make my own rear dropouts. But, in the interest of time, I decided to just buy the Allotec ISO rear dropouts. They should arrive Monday.

I'm going to (hopefully) start assembling the jig over the weekend. Maybe fit some tubes.
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Old 08-27-21, 06:55 AM
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In a brazen display of efficiency, the USPS has my dropouts out for delivery today. I might get more done this weekend than I thought...
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Old 08-28-21, 12:49 PM
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Progress pics. Jig is setup. Seat tube is fitted. Seat tube top cone needs a post. I'll have to figure that out next.





And, a pic of the top tubes/seat stays (IE, my donor frame)...

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Old 09-01-21, 04:37 PM
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A little more progress...

Chain stays fitted.


Cleaned up the donor top tubes.


Drilled the headtube.



De-brazed and cleaned up the top tubes; and checked the fit on the jig. Pretty close.
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Old 09-01-21, 08:01 PM
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shelgame
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Originally Posted by headwind15 View Post
I think what you are doing is really super! I owned bicycle stores in San Diego, which gave me exposure to a lot of different handlebar types. At some point I discovered the swept back Wald 395 bars, I believe. I ended up building a frame with those swept back bars in mind, they definitely will help with reducing hand pressure. With the Wald bars, the diameter is such that putting trigger shifters or grip shift is in the cards. Since hand pressure is your enemy/ something you are trying to minimize, I would recommend "ergo" grips with locking rings on the end, so they can't rotate.
Thanks, I checked those bars out. I may end up going with a swept back bar like that, but I'd rather start with something more like the Wald 803. More BMX-like. My inspiration is the State Bicycle Klunker or the Sklar klunker. Though, the Sklar bars would be too low for me, I think.

I ordered 2 different bars to try on this bike - a 3" rise alloy bar and a 5" rise CroMo bar. Both are about 30' wide.
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Old 09-02-21, 07:03 AM
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Maybe it's not clear in the pics, but I have little problem. The curved top tubes do not quite reach the rear dropouts. They reach, but I'd have to attached them at the 'swaged' portion of the tube. Not ideal, I think. I need another half inch.

Option 1: Shorten the wheelbase a half inch. Not the geometry that I wanted. But, would still work. Just need a little longer stem. This isn't a race bike, so that's not the end of the world. I have to reset the headtube on the jig. Again, not the end of the world. It's a very flexible jig after all.

Option 2: 'extend' the curved tubes with an external sleeve. This feels like much more of a hack to me. Maybe if I made the end of the sleeve decorative, it might work. But, I'm still not liking it.

Option 3: Scrap these tubes and make my own. Well, I really wanted some part of this bike to be 'vintage'. No real explanation as to why. But, I'd prefer to use these tubes if at all possible.

So, I guess that leads me to option 1...
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Old 09-02-21, 02:22 PM
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Maybe you could ease the bend (increase radius) of the twin tubes and lower the intersection with the seat tube? (Edit: in order to effectively shorten the tubes)

Also, wondering why there are through holes in the HT.

Last edited by tuz; 09-02-21 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 09-02-21, 02:32 PM
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shelgame
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Originally Posted by tuz View Post
Also, wondering why there are through holes in the HT.
I was wondering when someone would notice that

Internal cable routing. This will be a 1x9 drivetrain, with disk hydraulic brakes. But, I don't want there to be cables hung all over it. So, rear derailleur cable goes thru the right TT, rear brake hose thru the left.
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Old 09-03-21, 08:50 PM
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Worked on the fork today. This came off a Diamondback Response. The frame was alloy, but the fork was rigid CroMo. It's the basic shape that I wanted, and it will fit probably up to a 700-50 tire; eventhough I think the bike was a 27.5' tire bike.

Took the canti posts off, and added the disk tab. I also added hose guides, after this pic...


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Old 09-04-21, 06:37 AM
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Could have used the canti posts for a rando rack!
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Old 09-05-21, 06:31 PM
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shelgame
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Tacked up the frame today.




Last edited by shelgame; 09-05-21 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 09-08-21, 08:01 PM
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Love this project, look forward to seeing it built up!
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Old 09-09-21, 08:49 AM
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shelgame
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It's on the bike stand waiting for me to finish the fillets. But, first I made sure the internal cable routing was going to work. Looks OK to me!



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Old 09-09-21, 09:01 AM
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What a cool project! I love the old cruiser frames. I picked up an old Schwinn Spitfire and am gathering parts. Your post are inspiring and motivating!
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Old 09-16-21, 07:31 PM
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shelgame
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Fillets! I'm still working on my technique. They don't look so great naked, but they'll clean up.







The easy parts are done. Now on to the clean up.
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