Clear coat powders are as durable as colored powders. Powders are available in different chemistries based on the application and expected exposure and environment. An exterior TGIC polyester type powders should work fine for you. Clear is clear and you'll see right through to the metal so keep in mind any defect or stain will be amplified. Heating the metal can change its color (darken) and chemical treatments for corrosion prevention and cleaning can also alter the metal's appearence. Using clear over another colored powder coat will add thickness and change the gloss level as desired. If the powder coat gets too thick it'll chip easier so too much of a good thing ain't so good.

Well if you want to coat just a small part then it's an expensive way to go. Some coaters use an automated system and you'll wait until theres hook space and they are shooting the same color because breaking down an automated line for color changes and unique or small parts would just be too much labor and time consuming. Batch shops can handle the part most efficiently but most will still charge a basic price to set up the color and bake the part. So a single or small piece will be expensive. I can't believe I'm saying this but...... maybe a guy doing it as a hobbie is your best bet. Check out they're work first to be sure they know what they're doing. Keep in mind you WILL get what yo pay for

If it's done well, then powder coating doesn't want to come off. Blasting it off creates a rough profile on the metal, Heating (using a burnoff oven) can warp the frame or melt it if its ALU. The best way is chemical stripping. Brake fluid or gasket remover should only soften the top but thats about it. The most effective stripper I've found so far is "Aircraft Stripper". It should cause it to lift but if not it'll soften the coating up enough to make blasting without damage possible. If you send it to a commercial stripping company it'll comeback stripped but I recomment a light blast to provide a slight profile to enhance adhesion of the new coat and an iron phosphate wash to prevent rusting before recoating.

A powder coat finish is NON porous. It's like a plastic film. Adhesion problems are common and are usually caused by poor surface preparation or not heating the part correctly. When the coating lifts off it may peel off in sheets. Adding an additional clear coat will make the coating thicker. If the coat becomes too thick it will chip easier.

You should be able to put just about any common type of paint on top of the powder. I'm most familiar with automotive paints and they should work great. I would tape off..tightly (use a fine line tape) the areas you don't want to second coat and then use a scotch brite pad (Red = aggessive / Grey = medium) to dull out and rough up the surface of the powder coat where you'll put the second coat. Follow the instructions of the paint mfg for surface prep and application.
Adding a "paint" clear coat will smooth the tape lines and edges but... You'll have to coat the whole project. To get a good wet coat to flow and layout will probably lift the decals, maybe even lift and pucker them up because of the solvents used to flow the clear. If your coater is good with custom tape work maybe you can use powder for the accents.

I'd use a good automotive grade polyurethane clear over the whole piece. Lacquer's out! No blending. Scotch brite the whole thing and smoothout (featheredge) the edges with a fine snadpaper (600 grit or finer) of the repair for a clean finish

If you can see it there's a chance you'll see it after its coated. The powder does have some fill and flow characteristics but you take your chances that may hide minor imperfections. Use your judgment and ask your coater. If the rims are clean (no damage, no rust, no peeling etc...) they may not need blasting. You may just need to use a fine emery cloth or even an aggresive scotch brite pad. As for a price guesstimate ....a 1 piece rim... maybe $35-$55 ea. just the ring maybe $25-$45 ea. but there may be a minimum for setup. Ask your friendly neighborhood coater.

Wow great pictures! Look great! You can notice the profile of the sandblasting through the clear. The natural steel look is pretty popular lately. I like the look of the brazing too.

Well I can't say for sure what will happen. Thats a little deep! I know when you want to shape ALU (2024) you can heat it with a torch and it becomes malleable. If you heat the same piece and cool it fast it stiffens again.... real basic stuff. The curing temperature for the powder is @ 375F - 450F for up to 30 min. If I remember correctly annealing requires extended time under much higher temperatures. 6061 & 7005 refer to it's metal content properties and T6 refers to its temper. Does that sond right? I don't think you'll have problems unless under some unusual or extreme conditions.

I use PPG's 2042 clear and no scuffing is needed. Just clean thoroughly with DX330 wax & grease remover and spray away!

Generally that only applies to the old varnish-on style decals. Most of todays decals readily accept clear coating. Some are even made to go under powdercoat clear!

BTW, PC4U, you should start this thread over in Classic & Vintage!

This thread is very informative and you have already answered any questions which I have ever had about powder coating. Thank you for spending the time to come here and post this information.

Dear Powder Coating Advisor,

I'm currently trying to get quotes to powder coat a frame Schwinn Opaque Blue. Most shops are coming back with quotes around $200 for a color match (and additional 125-150 for spray). Is this about normal, or is there somewhere online I can get color matching more affordably?

Hi..
I'm currently attempting to get a carbon fiber component painted (by a company who specializes in custom powdercoating).
The company isn't local.
I'm attempting to get the component (riser bars) matched to a powdercoated frame/cranks.
The powdercoat's color is RAL 3014.
Unfortunately, they only deal in either color matching samples (which i'm trying to avoid, as shipping will inflate the project's price) or Dupont PPG color values.
I'm unable to find something which will provide a Dupont PPG number which matches to RAL 3014 powdercoat.

Do you have any idea how this can be achieved? I've looked for charts/programs/etc, and have come up empty.

Thanks...

is there chameleon or color changing powdercoat?
i was told that a company before made it MADISON? but they were bought by another company.. however i have seen some special powdercoats... i was hoping that coolorshifting /chameleon was available!

I used to know someone we called Beeb.. I wonder if its you???
Anyway Powder coat colors are based off a EU color pallet called RAL. In addition to RAL colors many powder manufacturers have developed their own custom colors at request or to sell to the market. Many powder manuf are willing to custom mix a color but because of the way they have to make it there will be a minimum batch size usually 50 - 250 pounds and they'll charge a premium price for developing the formula too. I think you should be able to find something pretty close. Look at RAL5012
I used to live on LI so I know its expensive there. The coater that gave you the price should know his costs and profit requirements and if they're not foolish they'll be fair. I'm in NC now and my costs are not as high so I can charge less. I would shop around a little before I spent that kinda dough. If you can't find what you need then Automotive Polyurethane paints would be my next option. They're durable enough for cars so a bike should be OK too. Automotive paints are easy to mix and match and you'd probably have better luck if the color is 1st priority.

Hi Guys,
Stipping an Ally frame for powder coating.

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/phot...eat=directlink

Some traces of the original undercoat near welds etc.

Is that going to to be a problem?

Cheers fo any advice.