Downtube or seat tube for adding bottle cage rivnuts
#1
Thread Starter
joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
Downtube or seat tube for adding bottle cage rivnuts
Hi All: I am planning on drilling into a frame to add bottle cage rivnuts and am wondering, all other things equal, whether the seat tube or the down tube is better from a maintaining the integrity of the frame point of view.
Frame is a Miyata built 1981 Univega Viva Sport. CroMo, lugged, no butting stickers.

I also have a lugged 1982 Miyata that has bottle holes on the downtube only-- am wondering if this is structurally better, or just more aero or due to general rider preference.
I have a bent Takara frame to practice on.
Thoughts on seat tube vs downtube appreciated.
Thanks.
Frame is a Miyata built 1981 Univega Viva Sport. CroMo, lugged, no butting stickers.
I also have a lugged 1982 Miyata that has bottle holes on the downtube only-- am wondering if this is structurally better, or just more aero or due to general rider preference.
I have a bent Takara frame to practice on.
Thoughts on seat tube vs downtube appreciated.
Thanks.
#2
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,373
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
It probably doesn't matter which tube you drill, providing yoy do a clean job. The choice of which tube production frames have bottle bosses in has only spec issues and not stress issues. Not doing a boss set decreases the cost, not the "strength". Andy.
#3
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joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
Thanks. Unless dissenting views are to follow I'll probably go with seat tube. Works better for hot coffee.
Still trying to source rivuts, and framesaver/amsoil mphd stuff locally, but will try to remember to return with pics once it's built back up.
Still trying to source rivuts, and framesaver/amsoil mphd stuff locally, but will try to remember to return with pics once it's built back up.
#5
Thread Starter
joel52
Joined: Apr 2012
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Bikes: 2012 Raliegh Misceo
You're overlooking the hideousness of clamps. (I should add that the photo is of the bike on day of purchase-- $20. I already trashed the p-clamped rack. Am even adding a seat too!).
Too bad we can't hash it out further over a few pints at ****'s! I miss HV!
Too bad we can't hash it out further over a few pints at ****'s! I miss HV!
#6
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Joined: Aug 2006
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From: western Washington
Bikes: Stella
According to Bicycle Quarterly's wind tunnel study, seat tube is more aero than downtube. Harder to reach, maybe, but more aero.
Stainless steel hose clamps are ugly. "Real" bottle cage clamps, not so.
Stainless steel hose clamps are ugly. "Real" bottle cage clamps, not so.
#9
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 19,373
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From: Rochester, NY
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
I always take claims that such and such "looks better" with a larger grain of salt. Hose clamps are so much more practical. Don't rust, can be tightened without bottoming out, adapt to any tube and clamp volume. But then I'm a mechanic and rider, not a looker. Andy.
#10
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Maryland
Bikes: Hollands Touring Bike, Schwinn mountain bike, folding bike, tandem and triple
If you are going to take a torch to the frame, do both the seat tube and down tube. You don't have to use both at any given time, but if you plan a long, potentially hot ride, having both can be very nice.





