Are my tires bald?
#1
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From: Welland, ON
Bikes: '90 Bianchi Grizzly, '91 Look mi70, '99 RM Hammer Race
Are my tires bald?
I just bought a used mountain bike with slicks primarily for commuting. I have no idea how tell if the tires need replacing as I have never had slicks before, I have only ever had "knobby" tires. My boss commented today that my tires are bald, to which I replied I thought they were supposed to look like that because they are slicks. OBV I'm a super newb! Can you guys help me determine if I need new tires? Thanks!


Last edited by LoriRose; 05-13-15 at 11:40 PM.
#4
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From: Welland, ON
Bikes: '90 Bianchi Grizzly, '91 Look mi70, '99 RM Hammer Race
#6
Looking at that center seam, I'd have to think you have less than 500 miles on that tire, although the front does wear slower than the rear. You have a couple thousand miles left to go.
I'd ride those until that center tread chevron goes away, or you start getting excessive flats, or both.
Many "road" tires start with a lot less tread than that, or some are perfectly smooth. For example, look at the "thickslick tires".
I'm still hoping to grind some tires down until either I see threads, or the tread changes color. But, I seem to give up on the tires before that point.
I'd ride those until that center tread chevron goes away, or you start getting excessive flats, or both.
Many "road" tires start with a lot less tread than that, or some are perfectly smooth. For example, look at the "thickslick tires".
I'm still hoping to grind some tires down until either I see threads, or the tread changes color. But, I seem to give up on the tires before that point.
#7
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From: Welland, ON
Bikes: '90 Bianchi Grizzly, '91 Look mi70, '99 RM Hammer Race
#8
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From: Welland, ON
Bikes: '90 Bianchi Grizzly, '91 Look mi70, '99 RM Hammer Race
Looking at that center seam, I'd have to think you have less than 500 miles on that tire, although the front does wear slower than the rear. You have a couple thousand miles left to go.
I'd ride those until that center tread chevron goes away, or you start getting excessive flats, or both.
Many "road" tires start with a lot less tread than that, or some are perfectly smooth. For example, look at the "thickslick tires".
I'm still hoping to grind some tires down until either I see threads, or the tread changes color. But, I seem to give up on the tires before that point.
I'd ride those until that center tread chevron goes away, or you start getting excessive flats, or both.
Many "road" tires start with a lot less tread than that, or some are perfectly smooth. For example, look at the "thickslick tires".
I'm still hoping to grind some tires down until either I see threads, or the tread changes color. But, I seem to give up on the tires before that point.
#9
As long as you can see quite a bit of the center chevrons, then they are in pretty good shape.
#13
^^^This, except I've never gotten more flats the more the tire was worn. My theory is with worn tread rubber, it may be slightly easier to puncture but there's lies likelihood of a small sharp shard staying embedded in the thinner rubber for many rotations and working it's way through the cords and tube.
#15
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From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
I'd say that, in the normal course of things, you'll probably change bosses before it becomes necessary to replace those tires.
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#18
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From: Mountain View, CA USA and Golden, CO USA
Bikes: 97 Litespeed, 50-39-30x13-26 10 cogs, Campagnolo Ultrashift, retroreflective rims on SON28/PowerTap hubs
I just bought a used mountain bike with slicks primarily for commuting. I have no idea how tell if the tires need replacing as I have never had slicks before, I have only ever had "knobby" tires. My boss commented today that my tires are bald, to which I replied I thought they were supposed to look like that because they are slicks. OBV I'm a super newb! Can you guys help me determine if I need new tires? Thanks!
This is a worn-out tire:
Note the frayed casing cord showing through holes in the rubber and diagonal lines where it's getting close after 5257 miles. Mountain bike tires with thicker and harder rubber should last longer, although without a puncture protection layer you may find the rate of flats unacceptable before the tires are worn out so you replace them sooner.
At that point throw out the rear tire (it goes first because it delivers the drive force and has ~50% more weight on it), move the front to the rear, and put a new one on the front where a flat is much more likely to lead to a crash.
Tread doesn't improve traction on road - that comes entirely from the tire's compliance with the pavement. It doesn't help in wet weather either with hydroplaning speed in MPH 10.35 sqrt(p) with pressure in psi. 10.35 * sqrt(50) = 73 MPH, 10.35 * sqrt(30) = 57 MPH, etc.
Road tires only have tread because the market expects it from car tires where speed and inflation pressure makes hydroplaning a real problem and tread moves water shallower than it.
In fact, tread on-road can be counter-productive because it's more likely to squirm and upset things when you're cornering.
Last edited by Drew Eckhardt; 05-14-15 at 12:54 PM.
#19
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