I'm having a hard time finding information on this particular bike, since it is an "exclusive edition" to this retailer. The price seems good ($599), but I was wondering what similar models I should compare this to. Did they take a lower end Charge model, such as the Plug 1, and upgrade the components? Or did they take a higher end model (Plug 3/4) and downgrade the components? They list the frame as being "Tange Infinity CroMo", same as the Plug 3 (except the Plug 3 is "Tange Infinity Double Butted Seamless CroMo" -- is this different, or did they just not feel like typing all those words in the other bike's description?).

I ended up picking up this bike a couple days ago, as it is a steel frame road bike with disc brakes (I hate aluminum, and wanted the disc brakes for a future ebike modification down the road). Just wondering what I actually got for my money.

Edit: this is actually the "Charge Plug Sora Performance Exclusive" -- they had a another version, sold out, that had the Shimano Caris groupset instead of Sora.

Last January I bought the Performance Charge Plug with the Shimano Caris groupset (9 speed x 2). This is my main commuter and I have been very happy with a couple of notes. The threads for the rear rack and fenders are non-standard. They were something like M6 medium pitch, and they had pain on the threads so it was a little difficult to mount the fenders and rack. On the plus side, because of the rear disc brake caliper placement, I think I could have used a standard rack width. However I bought a slightly wider rack and after having the bike fall twice (once with me on it) I think the wider rack protects the gears et al better. The front fork mounting threads worked with the bolts supplied with the fenders. I would have liked smoother street tires, but the Kenda 32s with "knoblets" have worn in a little and been rotated and I'm happy with them (I installed tire liners after 6 months). With these tires the clearance for fenders is tight, but doable. I bought a flat, flathead bold and drilled a hole in the fender to take advantage of the bridge on the seat stays that has a thread facing the wheel.

I had read the reviews and agree, it is not a quick sprinter, but then neither am I. However for high-speed commuting it is sure-footed, fast and just rugged enough without being too heavy, and while not as "rubber band-y" as my 1984 Nishiki road bike, it definitely has some pliance in the frame. I paid $699 and noticed it in the store recently for the $599 you mentioned. As far as I'm concerned I got a tremendous deal, and having been ridden 3-4 days a week for 10 months it has performed spectacularly.

If it's anything like their "Performance Exclusive" clothes I've bought from them, it's the same thing with the Performance Bicycles logo and name.

No Performance logos. Here's mine as I bought it, and kitted for commuting.

So if I read reviews of the Plug 3 (which is the lowest end one that has gears, although it is SRAM instead of Shimano), most of that should apply to the Performance Exclusive editions?

So far, I really like the bike, although I've only had time to ride it for a few miles. Only problem I have so far is the saddle -- it may be because I haven't been on a bicycle in the last few years, combined with my age, or it could be an adjustment issue. But after 2 miles my behind feels like it is bruised. I think I'll need to tilt the saddle forward slightly -- either that, or go back to a Brooks saddle (which is what had on my older mountain bike, which is sadly "missing").

I stopped by the local Performance today and noticed one of the models in that line in the lobby. I liked the looks of it, it looks like a pretty nice bike.

You'll notice I have a gel cover on my seat. It doesn't work for everybody, but all my bikes are "gellin'". (And padded handgrips)

What is the standard sized thread size and pitch? Can this be remedied by re-tapping the threads? Or is it better to just get the right sized screws?

I wouldn't retap the threads just have the crew at the bike store figure it out with the bolts on hand.

Can you provide details on what you added, like what kind of rack you got? I just picked this bike up off Craigslist and will be using it as a commuter also.

I can't remember the brand of the rack off the top of my head (Transit (aluminum)from Performance, I think)but the important thing is it has got that wide "disc-brake compatable" mount. I don't think it is necessary with this bike, but it is important when the bike is layed down. It seems to protect the gears and discs. SKS longboard fenders. I atatched the bridge mount behind the fork to lower the rear edge more. And while the fenders come with a spacer to place the front fender supports wide enouugh to clear the disks, I used a short plastic "mending plate" to move the mounting point to keep the supports narrow. Cheap Transit saddlebag from Performance Bicycles; didn't think it would be big enough compared to old bike bag, but it holds mutitool, innertube and patchkit. Gel seat from wal-mart. Insulated pipe tubing on the handlebars. AirZound Airhorn. Mirracycle bar end mirror (I wear a tak-a-look glasses mount mirror also) Bell, belll on right handle bar (for pedestrians), $9 Niterider flasher in back with side firing LEDS, some sort of Cat-eye flasher on front fork (to dance off the spokes). I also wear a front and rear flasher on my helmet. inexpensive toe-clips (personal preference). Orange Bungie Cord for back pack. See this video:


ANd the kickstand. I can't remember the brand, but it is not good. It doesn't grip the chainstay bar firmly and tends to rotate under heavy loads (meaning bike can fall). THe length adjustment doesn't clamp securely either. It then stripped, so I drilled a bolt through it. I told myself I will get a new kickstand, but haven't so far. On my previous commuter/utility bike the rear kickstand has a flange that sticks up to grab the seat-stay tube also. The location of the disc brake mechanism makes that particular model unusable on this bike, but I will look for another with a taller flange.
THe little pocket on the top tube holds a snot rag. In this photo I have my cable-lock bungied to the rack "bridge" using one of those smartphone arm-band holders ($5 goodwill). BUt I have since gone with an auto-motive sun-visor CD holder I found (also $5 2nd hand). It is a felt-like sleeve with a full-length velcro band. It makes a pocket, and I merely slide the coiled chain in there and close the flap. It is faster to operate and closes more securely than this one. On the old bike I carried the chain in the larger saddlebag.

I also added the spoke reflectors, although the rear has been replaced with one like the front.
I was going to use white and red reflective tape like the old bike, but I saw the black and yellow caution tape and went with that.

I wasn't a fan of the original Kenda "small-block" micro-knobbie tires. They were grippy, comfortable and pliant, but no match for COlorado's goat-head thorns. SO I added tire lines (as with my other bikes) and this year I replaced them with Kenda Kwests (with tire liners). THe Kwests don't get much love, but they are smooth, grippy and wear well, and I like them.

I have a Planet BIke "bike computer" and an inexspensive mini-frame pump with toe-step, my first with such. I found that if I kneal with my foot on the pump it works great!

Wow, thanks a ton for the great info, BobbyG! I think one of the first things I do will be adding tire liners. Back in June I added Mr Tuffy liners to my (only) other bike after getting two flats in one week. I haven't had a flat since, almost 2000 miles later.

Regarding the Kwest tires you got, did you stick with the same width as the original tires (700x32?) or get a different width?

Thanks again for the info.

Same width because I already had fenders. Not sure how wide the frame will take.

***I have mentioned this elsewhere, but the Charge Plug lineup through model year 2015 is steel. For 2016 they went to aluminum except for the top of the line which according to their website is titanium. Online the frames look pretty close to the steel ones geometry-wise, but I don't know and I haven't ridden any.

My preference is steel. Mine's supposed to be a 2015 and to my eye looks pretty much identical to your bike's 'before' photo:

That is the steel frame. The new aluminum frame has tell-take aluminum welds and the area around the rear drop-out is noticably different. You got a deal! Enjoy, and remember about the rear threads.

Cool. Thanks for confirming. Regarding the rear threads, I sent emails to both Charge and Performance to see if they could provide specs on the screws needed. If they don't come through, I can try wheeling the bike over to a shop or hardware store.

One very last thing. I just remembered. Regarding the rear fender. On the bridge between the two seatstays, where Rim brakes would be mounted, there is a threaded hole who's size I forgot. The whole faces the fender. I installed the fender, and then drilled a hole to line up with the threaded hole and used a flathead Bolt to help stabilize the fender and also help it clear the tire. It was a tight clearance with the original tires but not so much with the kwests.

That fender info is good to know. Thanks.

RE: your kickstand issues, I have a $12 kickstand I like on my Marin Muirwoods bike (which has a Topeak rack and Ortlieb panniers). As a test, I swapped in onto the Charge Plug to see if it would fit, and it looks good:

https://amzn.to/2hhqhKZ

Ordered...thanks!

Dumb question: Are these the threads/screws you are referring to? If so, can I just use the screws that are currently on the bike?

Mine came with those too. I meant the threadded dropouts down by The Hub.

Thanks. I'll check on that. BTW, I received an answer from Charge (though they may be not be referring to the threaded dropouts):

Q: "Hello. I recently purchased a 2015 Charge Plug (Performance Exclusive). On a bike discussion forum I read that if I were to add a rack to the back of the bike, I would need a particular set of screws. Could you tell me what type/thread I should look for when I go to my neighborhood hardware store? Thank you."

A: "Hi...These should be a normal M5 bolt, the same as the bottle bosses. I’d take a bottle bolt out, thread it into the rear and if it works, buy a matching set. The bolts that come with mudguard sets will work, it certainly did in mine."

Kind regards,
Charge Bikes"

FYI, I've emailed Charge about the size of the holes near the dropouts.

Ewww... Promax Render Rs... how do you live with that crap??


(Got them on my Fuji, yuck)

For those that end up getting this bike, Bobby G's info served me well. For my rear rack, I ended up getting the following and it worked out fine:

• Topeak Explorer MTX Rear Rack (w/Spring Clip, Non-Disc)
• M6-0.8 Internal Hex Socket Cap-Head Cap Screws (2-Pack @ Home Depot; I think I got the 15mm)

Currently, this is my main commuter: