After looking at some path racers I'm thinking about flipping my Globe Carmel's semi-high rise handlebars to get a little lower position for rides in the wind. I'll post a few photos. Just wondering if there are any safety hazards I'm overlooking in doing this.

Quill stem, already lowered as much as it'll go from the 3" maximum elevation it started at. Four bolt clamp over the handlebars, with those grippy striation things to minimize slippage. Seems like it should work. Naturally I'll reposition the brakes, etc.

Assuming it's not just plain dangerous, I'll adjust for balance, ergonomics, etc.

Why?

My favorite rural exercise route often has steady 10-15 mph winds with 20-30 mph gusts (including all week). Often I lean my forearms across the rubber handgrips to get a lower profile. Also helps grinding uphill.

But I can't maintain a low position for very long, due to an old neck injury (permanently splintered C2 vertebrae). So drops are out. But getting the hand position closer to level with the saddle height might be workable. And if it's too low I can always elevate the stem up to 3".

Thanks.

NOTE: These photos are from last year when I first got the bike. I've already lowered the quill stem about 3", a little at a time as I got back into shape.

It would work, though be a bit odd. You could get a different stem and bars to do a more "official" job of it. You say you could elevate the stem 3"? Be sure not to go above the minimum insertion mark on the stem.

Figure 8 bend trekking bar's forward grip* works fine for the posture change to bend over More.

* I just bend my elbows a little..

Check for knee - elbow/hand clearance on tight turns.

You might want to experiment with mt bike bar ends for a second position option.

Looking at several old classic path racers and more recent homages like the Pashley Guv'nor, many appeared to have been fitted with upright handlebars that were merely flip-flopped for a lower profile. But most had back-turned bars. Mine aren't quite straight but not turned back much, so the wrist position may be the limiting factor.

We're due for t-storms all week, so I'll have time to piddle around with the existing handlebars to see if flip-flopping the handlebar is useful.

Yup, I video recorded myself riding this weekend to get an objective look at my riding position. The main hindrance on tight turns is toe overlap, but this only happens at slow speeds on tight turns, and it always gently nudges my foot out of the way so no harm done.

Looking at the video -- taken on a very windy day -- I might be able to get by just pivoting the bars forward a bit. I noticed my arms are bent at the elbows a bit more than necessary, with my shoulder blades hunched together, when I'm trying to tuck in while riding against the wind. I could probably improve on that a bit just by repositioning the bars.

Just from the pictures, that's not the bike to ride if you are concerned about aerodynamics.

I'm just looking for a little reasonable improvement using the existing equipment, not to mimic a road bike with drop bars or to replace anything or try to make the bike something it isn't.

I've found a couple of tutorials on exactly what I'm asking about with compact frames and similar handlebars, so it's been done before and appears to be workable.

An inexpensive flat bar and these might get you where you want to be.

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