Drop Bars: Shifting While in the Drops
 

Hi guys,

So I have a problem when shifting into the big ring on my crankset. I have no trouble shifting my rear derailleur because the shifts are much smaller in leverage, however because of the leverage needed to get a proper shift for the front derailleur, I sometimes end up pulling the brakes while trying to shift up.

I have come up with 3 reasons why this may be happening:

1. Because my hand sometimes feels cramped when I try and shift from the drops, I should increase my stem length.
2. I need to adjust when I shift, so I should only shift up when I am closer to my smallest gears.
3. I should shift into the big ring only when I am riding on the hoods, and only shift down for my big ring when I'm in the drops.

Maybe I'm over thinking things, but this issue has made is harder for me to comfortably use the drop position as a means of granting better control over my bike.

For those asking:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520737

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520738

Keep practicing..It is the hardest shift that you have.

Do you have particularly small hands? if so a shim bringing the lever closer might help.

Switch to Double Tap

I have huge hands. The problem is when I have a somewhat relaxed/upright riding positions which does not translate well when I shift to the drops.

Explain?

SRAM shifter does not use the brake lever for shifting. All shifting is done by one paddle.

Cool, well if you can find one that works with a Shimano Claris Triple let me know........

I was just explaining the Double Tap system. Unfortunately I don't think SRAM makes a shifter for front tripple.

That's fine. But yeah that option would be a no-go for me unless I change my entire drivetrain

I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520705
Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=520706

I am currently using compact handlebars, however they have am extra 5mm in drop compared to the FSA handlebars.

I can't imagine a couple tenths of an inch would make a noticeable difference. If the bar is level, the levers are properly positioned, and you don't have "Trump hands"... you shouldn't be any more disadvantaged than anyone else.

DA 9000 front shifter will solve your problem. It's like butta'.

You may have missed the part where I'm running a Claris Triple.

Are they not compatible? And is there a law where you live that says you cannot upgrade your gruppo? Rebuild with DA 9000, 50x34 compact crank and 12x28 cassette. The brakes on 9000 are also sublime.

A. Dura Ace costs more than my entire bike combined.
B. That said, I personally cannot afford to change my group set this soon considering that I built my bike 2 months ago.

Campagnolo has fixed brake blades, a paddle to go larger, and thumb button reachable from the drops for smaller.

Standard Campagnolo 8/9/10 speed ergo levers through the 2008 model year will run any front derailleur (double, triple, mountain tamer quad, daVinci quad), and can be paired to Shimano derailleurs/cassettes with a jtek shiftmate. Campagnolo 10 levers will also run SRAM road derailleurs without an adapter according to Lennard Zinn.

The left lever has 12 positions, with 3-4 used for Campagnolo doubles and 6-7 Campagnolo triples.

Ultrashift levers (2009-2010 Veloce and above, 2011+ Chorus and above 11 speed only) will also run triples with that sort of trim setup, but use 6 of 6 for Campagnolo triples and may come up short with other derailleurs.

Escape levers (2007-2008 Veloce/Centaur) have indexed front positions which should be less friendly to mix and match. PowerTap (all 10 speed and Athena made from 2011 on) may too.

Well since I am not your personal accountant and you mentioned nothing about financial considerations in any of your posts, your snide answer to my original suggestion was uncalled for. Welcome to my iggy list.

I'd suggest new cables but you said you just built it a couple of months ago. Other than practice you could find someone with a higher grade (105+) of shifter and see if they shift easier. Better, low friction, cables might help. You could probably upgrade your shifters and front derailleur with some used ebay parts for a reasonable price.

Especially older, deeper TRACK bars. :)

But yes, the size and form factor definitely favor a compact bar with integrated shifters.


Uh no, not at all. 9000/6800/5800 Front shifters only work correctly with the latest generation of front derailleurs.

Make sure you have your shifters in the right place first. Your handlebars should be relatively flat across the top. You should be able to ride the hoods with your wrists straight. That usually means the lever is going to point upward at maybe 20 degrees or so.

After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.

I mean you did assume that I could afford DA w/o asking first. In my opinion that is just as bad, if not worse.

It's all about priorities. You can afford Dura Ace, you just think food and housing are more important things to spend your money on.

You are definitely overthinking this.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.

It's long been Bar End shifters for Me. :50:


This is Probably Accurate.
confirmed .. :rolleyes:


Want to re tape the bars? Move the lever even higher on the bars so that bend behind the lever is closer ?
and turn the bar down a bit more ..

This.



I thought so. I have no problem with my RD Shift, but w. my FD my fingers tend to slip so as I push horizontally I end up pushing diagonally engaging my brakes.


I actually raised my shifters to about 45 degrees to shorten my reach at the hoods to give myself a more comfortable and controlled position off road. After posting this I straightened my shifters out again and my up-shifts are better but still not perfect though.

Sure would be nice to have side view pictures of your handlebars.

Done. Will post more accurate pictures later.

go singlespeed :roflmao2:

Yeaaaah, nope :)

You could switch your hand momentarily to the hood and shift from there. I assume you're not trying to shift while also maneuvering a tight hairpin and dialing it up to 400 watts all at the same time, so the little time it'll take shouldn't be an issue. Would also recommend being more proactive with your front shifting if you are not right now. As in, shift to the ring you'll be using before you get to the point where you need to make that shift, even if it also involves making a few rear shifts..