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Drop Bars: Shifting While in the Drops

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Old 05-09-16 | 01:01 PM
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Drop Bars: Shifting While in the Drops

Hi guys,

So I have a problem when shifting into the big ring on my crankset. I have no trouble shifting my rear derailleur because the shifts are much smaller in leverage, however because of the leverage needed to get a proper shift for the front derailleur, I sometimes end up pulling the brakes while trying to shift up.

I have come up with 3 reasons why this may be happening:
  1. Because my hand sometimes feels cramped when I try and shift from the drops, I should increase my stem length.
  2. I need to adjust when I shift, so I should only shift up when I am closer to my smallest gears.
  3. I should shift into the big ring only when I am riding on the hoods, and only shift down for my big ring when I'm in the drops.

Maybe I'm over thinking things, but this issue has made is harder for me to comfortably use the drop position as a means of granting better control over my bike.

For those asking:



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Last edited by DarKris; 05-10-16 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 05-09-16 | 01:03 PM
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Keep practicing..It is the hardest shift that you have.
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Old 05-09-16 | 01:39 PM
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Do you have particularly small hands? if so a shim bringing the lever closer might help.
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Old 05-09-16 | 01:57 PM
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Switch to Double Tap
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Old 05-09-16 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by tourisme
Do you have particularly small hands? if so a shim bringing the lever closer might help.
I have huge hands. The problem is when I have a somewhat relaxed/upright riding positions which does not translate well when I shift to the drops.

Originally Posted by Elvo
Switch to Double Tap
Explain?

Last edited by DarKris; 05-09-16 at 02:04 PM.
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Old 05-10-16 | 05:58 AM
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SRAM shifter does not use the brake lever for shifting. All shifting is done by one paddle.

Originally Posted by DarKris
I have huge hands. The problem is when I have a somewhat relaxed/upright riding positions which does not translate well when I shift to the drops.



Explain?
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by hyhuu
SRAM shifter does not use the brake lever for shifting. All shifting is done by one paddle.
Cool, well if you can find one that works with a Shimano Claris Triple let me know........
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:14 AM
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I was just explaining the Double Tap system. Unfortunately I don't think SRAM makes a shifter for front tripple.

Originally Posted by DarKris
Cool, well if you can find one that works with a Shimano Claris Triple let me know........
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hyhuu
I was just explaining the Double Tap system. Unfortunately I don't think SRAM makes a shifter for front tripple.
That's fine. But yeah that option would be a no-go for me unless I change my entire drivetrain
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
....... I have a somewhat relaxed/upright riding positions which does not translate well when I shift to the drops.
I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.

Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Cutter
I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.

Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.
I am currently using compact handlebars, however they have am extra 5mm in drop compared to the FSA handlebars.
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Old 05-10-16 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
I am currently using compact handlebars, however they have am extra 5mm in drop compared to the FSA handlebars.
I can't imagine a couple tenths of an inch would make a noticeable difference. If the bar is level, the levers are properly positioned, and you don't have "Trump hands"... you shouldn't be any more disadvantaged than anyone else.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:09 AM
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DA 9000 front shifter will solve your problem. It's like butta'.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
DA 9000 front shifter will solve your problem. It's like butta'.
You may have missed the part where I'm running a Claris Triple.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
You may have missed the part where I'm running a Claris Triple.
Are they not compatible? And is there a law where you live that says you cannot upgrade your gruppo? Rebuild with DA 9000, 50x34 compact crank and 12x28 cassette. The brakes on 9000 are also sublime.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Are they not compatible? And is there a law where you live that says you cannot upgrade your gruppo? Rebuild with DA 9000, 50x34 compact crank and 12x28 cassette. The brakes on 9000 are also sublime.
A. Dura Ace costs more than my entire bike combined.
B. That said, I personally cannot afford to change my group set this soon considering that I built my bike 2 months ago.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
Cool, well if you can find one that works with a Shimano Claris Triple let me know........
Campagnolo has fixed brake blades, a paddle to go larger, and thumb button reachable from the drops for smaller.

Standard Campagnolo 8/9/10 speed ergo levers through the 2008 model year will run any front derailleur (double, triple, mountain tamer quad, daVinci quad), and can be paired to Shimano derailleurs/cassettes with a jtek shiftmate. Campagnolo 10 levers will also run SRAM road derailleurs without an adapter according to Lennard Zinn.

The left lever has 12 positions, with 3-4 used for Campagnolo doubles and 6-7 Campagnolo triples.

Ultrashift levers (2009-2010 Veloce and above, 2011+ Chorus and above 11 speed only) will also run triples with that sort of trim setup, but use 6 of 6 for Campagnolo triples and may come up short with other derailleurs.

Escape levers (2007-2008 Veloce/Centaur) have indexed front positions which should be less friendly to mix and match. PowerTap (all 10 speed and Athena made from 2011 on) may too.

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Old 05-10-16 | 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
A. Dura Ace costs more than my entire bike combined.
B. That said, I personally cannot afford to change my group set this soon considering that I built my bike 2 months ago.
Well since I am not your personal accountant and you mentioned nothing about financial considerations in any of your posts, your snide answer to my original suggestion was uncalled for. Welcome to my iggy list.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:32 AM
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I'd suggest new cables but you said you just built it a couple of months ago. Other than practice you could find someone with a higher grade (105+) of shifter and see if they shift easier. Better, low friction, cables might help. You could probably upgrade your shifters and front derailleur with some used ebay parts for a reasonable price.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Dave Cutter
I prefer a less aggressive handlebar position myself. My bars are kept or adjusted to barely below my saddle. And the top of my bars are level to the hoods. I find the compact (less deep) bars to be the most comfortable.

Whereas the older deeper bars seem to be too aggressive for me.


Especially older, deeper TRACK bars.

But yes, the size and form factor definitely favor a compact bar with integrated shifters.


Originally Posted by indyfabz
Are they not compatible?
Uh no, not at all. 9000/6800/5800 Front shifters only work correctly with the latest generation of front derailleurs.

Originally Posted by DarKris
Maybe I'm over thinking things, but this issue has made is harder for me to comfortably use the drop position as a means of granting better control over my bike.
Make sure you have your shifters in the right place first. Your handlebars should be relatively flat across the top. You should be able to ride the hoods with your wrists straight. That usually means the lever is going to point upward at maybe 20 degrees or so.

After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.

Last edited by andr0id; 05-10-16 at 07:41 AM.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by indyfabz
Well since I am not your personal accountant and you mentioned nothing about financial considerations in any of your posts, your snide answer to my original suggestion was uncalled for. Welcome to my iggy list.
I mean you did assume that I could afford DA w/o asking first. In my opinion that is just as bad, if not worse.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DarKris
I mean you did assume that I could afford DA w/o asking first. In my opinion that is just as bad, if not worse.
It's all about priorities. You can afford Dura Ace, you just think food and housing are more important things to spend your money on.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:45 AM
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You are definitely overthinking this.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.
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Old 05-10-16 | 07:48 AM
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It's long been Bar End shifters for Me.


I'm over thinking things
This is Probably Accurate.
but still not perfect though.
confirmed ..


Want to re tape the bars? Move the lever even higher on the bars so that bend behind the lever is closer ?
and turn the bar down a bit more ..

Last edited by fietsbob; 05-10-16 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 05-10-16 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by andr0id
It's all about priorities. You can afford Dura Ace, you just think food and housing are more important things to spend your money on.

This.


Originally Posted by redcon1
You are definitely overthinking this.
I have Claris triple on my gravel bike, and no shifting front issues compared to my other bikes/groupsets. You need to extend your fingers, not wrap the brake lever, and practice shifting more. Your hand can be in a slightly different position on the drop bar, which will help. Find the one that works for you.

I thought so. I have no problem with my RD Shift, but w. my FD my fingers tend to slip so as I push horizontally I end up pushing diagonally engaging my brakes.


Originally Posted by andr0id
Make sure you have your shifters in the right place first. Your handlebars should be relatively flat across the top. You should be able to ride the hoods with your wrists straight. That usually means the lever is going to point upward at maybe 20 degrees or so.

After that it's just a matter of putting a lot of ape knuckles behind the push when moving the lever from the drops.
I actually raised my shifters to about 45 degrees to shorten my reach at the hoods to give myself a more comfortable and controlled position off road. After posting this I straightened my shifters out again and my up-shifts are better but still not perfect though.
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