Avid BB7s - MTB vs Road cable pull
#1
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Avid BB7s - MTB vs Road cable pull
Just built up my first road bike with discs (Soma Fog Cutter). I went with BB7s because I have used the mtb version extensively over the past 16 years on many mountain bikes (also have XT hydros on one bike), and have always been happy with them. And they are cheap (already had brifters with cable brake levers).
First, I'll say that I am totally sold on discs for road use. These are not even the best discs out there and I like them more than any road rim brakes I've owned or demoed. This was not a big surprise to me, though.
What I DID find interesting was the difference in feel from all of the BB7s I've used on my mtbs. Not quite as solid feeling, and I think it is due to road brakes (including the road BB7 calipers) using a shorter brake cable pull, and therefore more tension in the cables and housing.
I've always felt that brakes on road bikes never feel quite as solid (more flex in the system) as any of the V-brakes I've set up on my bikes, even pretty cheap ones (in some cases I have used brake boosters on the v-brakes for particularly flexy frames or forks). At first I thought it was because I used compression-less brake housing, but even after setting up both mine and my wife's road bikes with compression-less housing (which did help), I still felt that way.
I have long suspected a lot of the flex in the system was in the cable housing, due to the higher cable tension. The fact that compression-less housing always made such a big difference for me suggested to me that the cable housing was responsible for a lot of the flex in the braking system. This is especially true for mechanical discs where you have much longer cable/housing runs.
But I was never sure, because the caliper designs are different between mountain and road. But with this setup, it is the closest I've gotten to an apples-to-apples test. Same caliper design (but different cable-pull ratio), same brake cables/housing model, roughly same length cable/housing runs, different levers.
Anyway, I am still very happy with the brakes. Just thought the difference in feel between these and the mountain version was interesting.
First, I'll say that I am totally sold on discs for road use. These are not even the best discs out there and I like them more than any road rim brakes I've owned or demoed. This was not a big surprise to me, though.
What I DID find interesting was the difference in feel from all of the BB7s I've used on my mtbs. Not quite as solid feeling, and I think it is due to road brakes (including the road BB7 calipers) using a shorter brake cable pull, and therefore more tension in the cables and housing.
I've always felt that brakes on road bikes never feel quite as solid (more flex in the system) as any of the V-brakes I've set up on my bikes, even pretty cheap ones (in some cases I have used brake boosters on the v-brakes for particularly flexy frames or forks). At first I thought it was because I used compression-less brake housing, but even after setting up both mine and my wife's road bikes with compression-less housing (which did help), I still felt that way.
I have long suspected a lot of the flex in the system was in the cable housing, due to the higher cable tension. The fact that compression-less housing always made such a big difference for me suggested to me that the cable housing was responsible for a lot of the flex in the braking system. This is especially true for mechanical discs where you have much longer cable/housing runs.
But I was never sure, because the caliper designs are different between mountain and road. But with this setup, it is the closest I've gotten to an apples-to-apples test. Same caliper design (but different cable-pull ratio), same brake cables/housing model, roughly same length cable/housing runs, different levers.
Anyway, I am still very happy with the brakes. Just thought the difference in feel between these and the mountain version was interesting.
#2
I run BB7 MTB on several mountain bikes, I use standard Jagwire 5mm brake housing that compresses. I prefer it because it adds some amount of feel to the brake's action. I can lock up the rear wheel with ease, I don't see the need to run compression-less housing, it just makes the brakes touchy.
Same thing for road BB7, I run the same Jagwire brake housing and like the feel it gives. Again, I can lock up the rear wheel with ease. One of the bikes is a Fog Cutter, the other a Saga Disc. I may go to hydraulics on it when I can get a 3X shifter for the front.
Same thing for road BB7, I run the same Jagwire brake housing and like the feel it gives. Again, I can lock up the rear wheel with ease. One of the bikes is a Fog Cutter, the other a Saga Disc. I may go to hydraulics on it when I can get a 3X shifter for the front.
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Don't get me wrong, I like DO like these brakes and on the whole they feel good. Just not as solid (as in less give) as on my MTBs.
#5
If you can find a cheap pair of Hayes CX calipers they're worth checking out (I like them better than road BB7s).
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I run BB7 MTB on several mountain bikes, I use standard Jagwire 5mm brake housing that compresses. I prefer it because it adds some amount of feel to the brake's action. I can lock up the rear wheel with ease, I don't see the need to run compression-less housing, it just makes the brakes touchy.
Same thing for road BB7, I run the same Jagwire brake housing and like the feel it gives. Again, I can lock up the rear wheel with ease. One of the bikes is a Fog Cutter, the other a Saga Disc. I may go to hydraulics on it when I can get a 3X shifter for the front.
Same thing for road BB7, I run the same Jagwire brake housing and like the feel it gives. Again, I can lock up the rear wheel with ease. One of the bikes is a Fog Cutter, the other a Saga Disc. I may go to hydraulics on it when I can get a 3X shifter for the front.
There seem to be two camps on the best "feel" for brakes. Some find better control with a little more give, so that you need to actually move the lever more to change the braking force. Sounds like you fall in that catagory.
Others (like me) like less give, and go more by pressure on the lever to modulate braking. I can definitely see why some would find that to be too "touchy".
Endless arguments seem to abound (particularly in the mtb world) as to which is better or worse "modulation". A pointless argument, IMO.
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I am very much intrigued by the TRP Spyres. Did not care enough to drop the money on these for a road bike, but I am seriously considering the Spykes on my Trail Bike. I like my XTs when everything is working right, but I miss the simplicity of mechs.
#8
I might look into those if I do this again.
I am very much intrigued by the TRP Spyres. Did not care enough to drop the money on these for a road bike, but I am seriously considering the Spykes on my Trail Bike. I like my XTs when everything is working right, but I miss the simplicity of mechs.
I am very much intrigued by the TRP Spyres. Did not care enough to drop the money on these for a road bike, but I am seriously considering the Spykes on my Trail Bike. I like my XTs when everything is working right, but I miss the simplicity of mechs.
My complaint with mineral oil brakes is that they feel become very sluggish in sub-freezing temps. DOT-based systems are more consistent, but some folks are put off by DOT fluid disposal, etc.
#9
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Cool another Fog Cutter! I'll be posting pics of mine once I get the stem worked out. Got any posted of yours? Interestingly, I have also considered a Saga to replace my current commuter/errand bike.
There seem to be two camps on the best "feel" for brakes. Some find better control with a little more give, so that you need to actually move the lever more to change the braking force. Sounds like you fall in that catagory.
Others (like me) like less give, and go more by pressure on the lever to modulate braking. I can definitely see why some would find that to be too "touchy".
Endless arguments seem to abound (particularly in the mtb world) as to which is better or worse "modulation". A pointless argument, IMO.
There seem to be two camps on the best "feel" for brakes. Some find better control with a little more give, so that you need to actually move the lever more to change the braking force. Sounds like you fall in that catagory.
Others (like me) like less give, and go more by pressure on the lever to modulate braking. I can definitely see why some would find that to be too "touchy".
Endless arguments seem to abound (particularly in the mtb world) as to which is better or worse "modulation". A pointless argument, IMO.
#10
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In my experience, BB7 (road) work better and feel better with drop bar brake levers...BB7 (mountain) work better and feel better with MTB levers.
#11
I agree. I have a set of Cane Creek long pull drop levers I used with MTB BB7s and I didn't care for the feel (very subjective). I run BB7 road with Cane Creek drop levers on one bike and Tiagra 9 speed levers on the other and both feel the same as my Tiagra levers with Tektro 539 dual pull calipers. I ride the tops almost exclusively and can lock up the rear wheel on all three (from the tops).
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It has been a few short rides, so no, they are not fully bedded yet.
However, I have been through this enough times to know what it usually feels like at this point.
They are already grabbing well, just feel different.
I'll post if my observation changes.
However, I have been through this enough times to know what it usually feels like at this point.
They are already grabbing well, just feel different.
I'll post if my observation changes.
#17
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I will probably end up going with Spyre or Spykes for all fronts on all frequent riders and will end up with spare BB7 so win/win :-)
On the subject of price - while you can get older BB7 cheaper than Spyres, on new models it is a wash (I mainly buy from UK and Germany stores).
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