War of attrition bikes
#1
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War of attrition bikes
I was wondering if anyone would like to share their bikes that are built up to punch well above their weght . how and why you built the bike . you might not have a 10, 000 plus race machine but you figured out a way to getbthe same performance on the bike you have ...
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After reading this three times I think I understand what you are asking. Are you wanting people to post pictures of their bikes that are able to handle talent and skill above the current owners level?
if that is the case, most everyone here with a road bike should post their bikes because most everyone qualifies I think. Me certainly included.
if that is the case, most everyone here with a road bike should post their bikes because most everyone qualifies I think. Me certainly included.
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Check my build log below, I'm currently three quarters of the way through. I need to do stem and seat/seat post adjustments.
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Add a powermeter, buy Racing and Training With a Power Meter, do the work, analyze the data, do the work some more.
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What does this even mean? Is my 27lb commuter above or below my skill level? If it was carbon fiber with aero wheels, would I somehow be getting more out of it? Any bike is just a bike, and if you’re pedaling uphill in anything but the highest gear, you aren’t meeting your bike’s potential.
The real answer to this question is: E-bike. Otherwise, the bike has nothing to do with it, just train more on whatever bike you have.
The real answer to this question is: E-bike. Otherwise, the bike has nothing to do with it, just train more on whatever bike you have.
#8
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I think the OP (and his previous iteration) are quite possibly genuine, but keeps asking the same questions because he's not getting the answers he wants.
OP wants to be 'fast like a racer' or has actual racing aspirations, but is looking for a magic bullet of bike 'tech' that will make him 'fast'
Power Meters? Training Plans? Ain't no one got time for that; AFAIK, OP doesn't even Strava.

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Sure! I got the gears that I can turn over, get low on the bike, got some nicer rolling tires, clean up my drive train, put some streamlined clothes on and that maxes out my performance. Unfortunately there's only so much I can do with 200-250 watts.
#10
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It's much more about the rider than the bike. Ride lots. Train hard.
But since the question's about the bike... Price vs. weight/performance tends to be a logarithmic curve. I borrowed the attached image from a web site about audio equipment, but the same premise applies to bikes and a lot of other things. You can oftentimes get something like 80% of the performance for 20% of the price. Once you start getting past that 80% mark, though, it gets more and more expensive. Find the spot on the curve that you're comfortable with, or that your budget allows.
But since the question's about the bike... Price vs. weight/performance tends to be a logarithmic curve. I borrowed the attached image from a web site about audio equipment, but the same premise applies to bikes and a lot of other things. You can oftentimes get something like 80% of the performance for 20% of the price. Once you start getting past that 80% mark, though, it gets more and more expensive. Find the spot on the curve that you're comfortable with, or that your budget allows.

#11
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I was wondering if anyone would like to share their bikes that are built up to punch well above their weght . how and why you built the bike . you might not have a 10, 000 plus race machine but you figured out a way to getbthe same performance on the bike you have ...



#12
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There are some days I really feel like I'm flying.

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OP wants any little tricks he can find that will make his $1000 bike perform like a $10,000 bike without spending $10,000.
OP, the answer is, as always, upgrade the engine.
OP, the answer is, as always, upgrade the engine.
#14
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I can’t believe no one has mentioned derailleur pulleys.
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Have you tried EPO? I heard it works well. Or if someone can find out what Froomey is doing he seems to be punching well above his weight.
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It should be obvious, but worth mentioning anyway: Second in importance to your motor is your mechanic and pit crew. I think most of us can gain a "level" or two just by keeping a close eye on lubrication and maintenance. And a bike that's out on the road is faster than one that's sitting in the shop waiting to be fixed.
#17
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Make sure your bike fits. If your bike doesn't fit then get a different one.
Loose 10% to 15% of your body weight.
Get the fastest rolling and best handling tires you can. I recommend Vittoria Rubino G+ Speed. Get light tubes to go with them.
Get light wheels.
Get Dura Ace brake calipers and Koolstop Salmon pads. Learn to brake late and deep into a turn. So deep.
(at)Gresp15C is 138% right about keeping a bike well maintained. I would add that it should be kept clean too. It just runs better/faster, looks better and nobody wants to ride a clunker. Treat your bike like it is an Argon 18 with Bora wheels and Campy Super Record EPS, even if it isn't.
Dress nice. You will feel better even if you aren't faster.
When all else fails, always be ready with a great excuse. Great cyclists have great excuses.
-Tim-
Loose 10% to 15% of your body weight.
Get the fastest rolling and best handling tires you can. I recommend Vittoria Rubino G+ Speed. Get light tubes to go with them.
Get light wheels.
Get Dura Ace brake calipers and Koolstop Salmon pads. Learn to brake late and deep into a turn. So deep.
(at)Gresp15C is 138% right about keeping a bike well maintained. I would add that it should be kept clean too. It just runs better/faster, looks better and nobody wants to ride a clunker. Treat your bike like it is an Argon 18 with Bora wheels and Campy Super Record EPS, even if it isn't.
Dress nice. You will feel better even if you aren't faster.
When all else fails, always be ready with a great excuse. Great cyclists have great excuses.
-Tim-
Last edited by TimothyH; 05-01-18 at 09:53 PM.
#18
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figure out how to ride in a more aerodynamic position. Just about everyone can go more aero.
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Let's keep it PG here guys, no drug references or innuendos ok?
I'm not good with decimal points but this is a $10,000 top 'o line indexed shifting bike. Or is that $1.00? Whatever. Dura Ace is indexed shifting right?

#20
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want to get faster? go to ninigret tonight and do the NBX practice crit. I race on a 8 speed and I can assure you my equipment is least of my issues
#21
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I don't know what this means. My post has nothing to do with drugs nor was I making veiled references to anything.
Dura Ace capliers and Koolstop pads are probably the best brakes anyone can get. Racers practice late braking techniques. I do it all the time. It is a great way to pass people.
Dura Ace capliers and Koolstop pads are probably the best brakes anyone can get. Racers practice late braking techniques. I do it all the time. It is a great way to pass people.
#22
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Many pros have ridden several of the bike brands in my signature line to TdF and other racing victories.
I'm not worthy, but that never stopped me from riding.
Just ride your bikes in a manner that wears them out, not tears them up.
I'm not worthy, but that never stopped me from riding.
Just ride your bikes in a manner that wears them out, not tears them up.
#23
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Race performance? Untap that legend in my own mind thing. Also coffee and bacon. Morrr coffee....
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Unfortunately for OP, a secret motor to hide in the seat tube generally costs more than 10k as far as I've heard.
#25
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Reminds me of the thread about the guy who wanted to decrease weight on his bike by drilling out the frame. As it progressed the OP said he weighed like 250 lbs or so. Much easier to reduce the weight of the rider than the weight of the bike, and more efficient.