Silca pump problems . . .
#1
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Silca pump problems . . .
While the Silca pump I just got looks nice, and appears to be well made, I have never, in my 25 year "cycling carrier" have had so much freaking trouble trying to put air in my tires!!! (Well, except for that time many years ago when I tried another Silca pump.) There've been times it literally took me 5 MINUTES to get a tire to the proper pressure. Either the chuck blows off right after putting it on -- or just after I begin to pump it -- or nearly all the air comes out of the tire before I finally manage to get it to stay on. I seem to have a bit less trouble if I twist/screw the chuck on, though the instructions say to put it straight on (for a presta valve). Is there some special secret trick to getting this thing to work? Or is this just something that takes time to get the hang of?
#2
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Assuming you have the traditional old school push on brass Silca pump head, screw it on and off is a good practice as it stresses the valve stem at the tube less. Been using mine since new in 1986 and this is how I have always done it. Works without trouble.
The air that hisses out when "unscrewing" it is the air in the hose and chamber, not the tube. At least that has been my experience.
The air that hisses out when "unscrewing" it is the air in the hose and chamber, not the tube. At least that has been my experience.
#3
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Joined: Mar 2013
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From: TX Hill Country
Regardless, rotate the Presta valve to where you can get a solid connector for the chuck (usually Up on a frame pump) and release "a bit" of pressure to clear the valve, seat the chuck and have at it.
Keep a firm level head on a frame pump with the off-hand, on a track pump give it the willie.
Many/almost-all of these devices are decades old and require proper maintenance of the chuck seal and/or leather plunger.
These are still available OEM, just ask how/what:
https://silca.cc/pages/contact
#4
Yeah, I got a new one (floor pump) recently after reading a glowing review from Road Bike Rider, and am very disappointed. Seems like it should be easy, and is anything but. Really gotta futz with it.
I have a buddy who has an old one he swears by, and he will check out my new one for me soon. If I learn anything, I'll report back.
I have a buddy who has an old one he swears by, and he will check out my new one for me soon. If I learn anything, I'll report back.
#5
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P/V stems have a smooth band between the 2 threaded portions .. with a Bell shaped Silca pump head,
that is where the rubber gasket seals ..
Don't shove it on too far or ir will be hard to remove + you wear out the rubber seal ..I then it will blow off ..
...
that is where the rubber gasket seals ..
Don't shove it on too far or ir will be hard to remove + you wear out the rubber seal ..I then it will blow off ..
...
#6
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Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Northern Virginia
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
For the floor pump and frame pumps, place the valve at the top of the wheel pointing down. Open the screw all the way and make sure it is not stuck (quick push in). Push the brass chuck all the way on (past the smaller cap threads). That holds the check valve in the stem in. To preserve the seal in the chuck some riders use smooth wall valve stems. I have had my Silcas for 42 years (wife and I each have a frame pump and we have a floor pump) with threaded valves stems and it still seals well. The correct way to remove it is to wrap your thumb and forefinger around the chuck and use your other hand to strike your hand sharply. It will pop right off with no loss of pressure. I push it straight on and push it (or pull it at times) straight off with the chuck only, no screwing or wiggling. I have never had to replace a chuck seal, but I do have a spare for the floor and one for the frame mount..
Most people are not pushing the chuck far enough onto the stem, and are wiggling it to get it off. THe wiggling makes the threads cut the seal eventually. I also remember someting about the seal having a cone shaped hole and the narrow side should face away from the rim, serving to grasp the stem better.
With the old plastic body frame pump it is similar. Valve stem at the top, push the chuck all the way on. When done, hold the metal grip area with your hand as close to the chuck as possible, and strike you hand STRAIGHT down.
I use threaded and nutted 42mm valve stems. When I push the chuck on little of the stem is visible. I can easily get 105 pounds and have gotten 125 for tubulars (way back). I usually ride 95 pounds. The Silca system to me is far superior to the lever chuck systems and pumps. I greatly prefer it to the Zefal, as it is easier.
Most people are not pushing the chuck far enough onto the stem, and are wiggling it to get it off. THe wiggling makes the threads cut the seal eventually. I also remember someting about the seal having a cone shaped hole and the narrow side should face away from the rim, serving to grasp the stem better.
With the old plastic body frame pump it is similar. Valve stem at the top, push the chuck all the way on. When done, hold the metal grip area with your hand as close to the chuck as possible, and strike you hand STRAIGHT down.
I use threaded and nutted 42mm valve stems. When I push the chuck on little of the stem is visible. I can easily get 105 pounds and have gotten 125 for tubulars (way back). I usually ride 95 pounds. The Silca system to me is far superior to the lever chuck systems and pumps. I greatly prefer it to the Zefal, as it is easier.
Last edited by Bill in VA; 04-22-19 at 08:46 PM.
#7
Glad I'm not alone. I got a Silca Pista pump for 5 bucks at St. Vinny's, and replaced the rubber seal in the head. The old seal was noticeably reamed out. It's pretty futzy. I'll try some of the suggestions given here. It would be nice to get a classic old pump working.
Note in edit: I probably wasn't pushing it on far enough. Thanks for the tip. Also, a bit of spit helps it slide on further.
Note in edit: I probably wasn't pushing it on far enough. Thanks for the tip. Also, a bit of spit helps it slide on further.
Last edited by Gresp15C; 04-22-19 at 08:55 PM.
#8
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#10
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Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 734
Likes: 212
From: Northern Virginia
Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.
For the floor pump and frame pumps, place the valve at the top of the wheel pointing down. Open the screw all the way and make sure it is not stuck (quick push in). Push the brass chuck all the way on (past the smaller cap threads). That holds the check valve in the stem in. You want to get it on to just before it hits the check valve in the valve stem. To preserve the seal in the chuck some riders use smooth wall valve stems. I have had my Silcas for 42 years (wife and I each have a frame pump and we have a floor pump) with threaded valves stems and it still seals well. The correct way to remove it is to wrap your thumb and forefinger around the chuck and use your other hand to strike your hand sharply. It will pop right off with no loss of pressure. I push it straight on and push it (or pull it at times) straight off with the chuck only, no screwing or wiggling. I have never had to replace a chuck seal, but I do have a spare for the floor and one for the frame mount..
Most people are not pushing the chuck far enough onto the stem, and are wiggling it to get it off. The wiggling makes the threads cut the seal eventually. I also remember someting about the seal having a cone shaped hole and the narrow side should face away from the rim, serving to grasp the stem better.
With the old plastic body frame pump it is similar. Valve stem at the top, push the chuck all the way on. When done, hold the metal grip area with your hand as close to the chuck as possible, and strike you hand STRAIGHT down.
I use threaded and nutted 42mm valve stems. When I push the chuck on little of the stem is visible. I can easily get 105 pounds and have gotten 125 for tubulars (way back). I usually ride 95 pounds. The Silca system to me is far superior to the lever chuck systems and pumps. I greatly prefer it to the Zefal, as it is easier.
Most people are not pushing the chuck far enough onto the stem, and are wiggling it to get it off. The wiggling makes the threads cut the seal eventually. I also remember someting about the seal having a cone shaped hole and the narrow side should face away from the rim, serving to grasp the stem better.
With the old plastic body frame pump it is similar. Valve stem at the top, push the chuck all the way on. When done, hold the metal grip area with your hand as close to the chuck as possible, and strike you hand STRAIGHT down.
I use threaded and nutted 42mm valve stems. When I push the chuck on little of the stem is visible. I can easily get 105 pounds and have gotten 125 for tubulars (way back). I usually ride 95 pounds. The Silca system to me is far superior to the lever chuck systems and pumps. I greatly prefer it to the Zefal, as it is easier.
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Ithaka
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