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mudguards that look good

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Old 10-27-20 | 11:34 AM
  #76  
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If you have the mount points they are a cleaner installation.
I have the Greenfield on my road bike which also is a more secure design then the ones with the springs that degrade over time.
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Old 10-27-20 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill in VA
Painting the plastic fenders would require the paint to have a significant elastomer or plasticizer content in the paint to allow bending and flexing and impacts to not create chips and cracks in the paint surface which leads to water and air getting under the paint and causing flaking.. I have not seen that available in a rattle can, but it is routine for autobody shops, who use it on bumpers and airdams and spoilers made of ABS plastic or fiberglass/carbon fiber. Possibly a custom motorcycle shop could do it.

Aluminum needs special primers for good adhesion.

Good luck, the yellow/red combo does sound like it would both look right and achieve visibility in your area.
Back in the 90s I bought a set of plastic fenders to put on a road bike and didn't like the color match. I just grabbed a can of Krylon and sprayed 'em. The result was fine and lasted for as long as I had the bike.
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Old 10-27-20 | 01:45 PM
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Bikes: Current: 2016 Bianchi Volpe; 1973 Peugeot UO-8. Past: 1974 Fuji S-10-S with custom black Imron paint by Stinsman Racing of PA.

Originally Posted by rollagain
Back in the 90s I bought a set of plastic fenders to put on a road bike and didn't like the color match. I just grabbed a can of Krylon and sprayed 'em. The result was fine and lasted for as long as I had the bike.
Yes, that is another option.

I have found that over the years with changes in environmental laws and regulations with regard to volatile organic chemicals, paints that used to work for an application may not be as effective now (or might be more effective). The Krylon of the 1990s was most likely different in chemical formulation from the current product, so I would test and if it works go for an admittedly cheaper solution.

I was taking the OPs comments about having custom painted frame into account, and largely dismissed the cheaper DIY solution, which could also yield great results depending on the DIYer's talents. The enemy of many DIY projects and efforts is impatience, so good surface prep and testing is a must. A light surface scuff of the plastic with steel wool and then ensuring it is spotlessly degreased of any oils or fingerprints would go a long way to success. However, some plastic formulations are just not friendly to paint adhesion unless specially prepped or using special paint. I have found that the more flexible and 'unbreakable' the plastic, the more challenging it is to get longevity with an unmarred, unchipped finish.

All that said, I am very tempted to add fenders even though I do not ride in rain. The examples shown look very classy (and in many cases 'classic'). I love this thread.

Last edited by Bill in VA; 10-27-20 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 10-27-20 | 08:45 PM
  #79  
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I installed these yesterday along with a set of new winter shoes.


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Old 10-27-20 | 10:52 PM
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Only oldies are goodies. IMO. Here's my 1973 CCM with new wheels and SA RD3, bought in 2017 already repainted. Best fenders I have ever seen, but I do wish the top end was an inch longer forward. They have a deep dish profile, like around car wheels. This aids wheel removal. Plus they were properly bolt mounted to NOT rattle, unlike Raleigh's. I'm also very proud of the boot flaps, that really protects the chain from both wheels.
The chain guard is also solid and neato, with NO rattle. Others of the era are so thin and flimsy.

And don't laugh, this pic was on my 100.6 mile ride. I wanted to weld nice bottle mounts, but it didn't get done.
My Rohloff14 tour custom has old stainless fenders, also awesome. Homemade brackets though. I cut a rear fender for the front. Damn, I left a 3rd matched one at the co-op.
Last pic is the SA RD5w arrangement. It did 7 century rides, just this year.



Matching tractor wheel. LOL. Original front wheel still on here with 30+ year old tire.






PS: I wish to hell I could find some more of these nice smooth and soft plastic grips, the green sparkle ones. They came on my 1973 Raleigh, in other colors too.

Last edited by GamblerGORD53; 10-31-20 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 10-28-20 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by HTupolev
I'd say exactly the opposite. The ugliest fenders, by far, are the cut-up clip-ons that are never long enough, offer poor side coverage, and flop and rattle all over the place.
Sounds like the unpracticality and noisiness of said fenders has influenced your perception of their looks. I agree, some of them are very ugly, some are not THAT bad. But the same goes for proper full fenders too.

Honestly, there is not a single picture in this thread where the bike would not look better without the fenders.

And just to reiterate, I'm not discussing the practicality of mudgards (which also wasn't the specific point of this thread) - I do use mudguards myself when it's wet/muddy, as I commute the whole year round. However, I still don't particularly like the look of the bike with mudguards mounted.


Originally Posted by Trakhak
Exhibit A:

Can't see much of the fenders, let alone the bike, to form an opinion. But given that I vehemently dislike that color, it's perhaps better so.
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Old 10-28-20 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by subgrade
Sounds like the unpracticality and noisiness of said fenders has influenced your perception of their looks.
I don't think so. The mounting schemes of those fenders tend to look bulky and tacky in and of themselves, and I think that the non-functional dimensions of those fenders also contributes to their poor aesthetics.
For example, a shallow fender with poor side coverage looks like it's crowding the tire if it's mounted low, but if it's mounted high, the visual gap can disrupt the fenderline. So the considerations that allow a fender to be mounted safely high above a tire while still providing good side coverage and water channeling also allow it to visually interface well with the tire.
Similarly, fender blades that terminate in places like the fork crown produce a discontinuous appearance in the fenderline, even if they start up again on the opposite side. These breaks in the fenders also reduce coverage and make it harder for the fender to channel water.

Honestly, there is not a single picture in this thread where the bike would not look better without the fenders.
If that's your opinion, that's your opinion. I'd wager it's a minority opinion, though.

Like, I wasn't kidding when I said that people often praise the fenders on the first bike I posted. And I don't mean in the sense of "that looks good, for a fender." I mean in the sense of "wow, those look awesome."

Last edited by HTupolev; 10-28-20 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 10-28-20 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill in VA
snip

The Krylon of the 1990s was most likely different in chemical formulation from the current product, so I would test and if it works go for an admittedly cheaper solution.
snip
That's probably true, and as well, the plastic used in those fenders may have been different from what's used today. I don't recall the make of the fenders, but they were metallic silver and they didn't go well with the Raleigh Technium's peacock-blue paint job. When I was shopping for the paint, I couldn't find a close match to the bike, so I went with contrast--orange. It ended up being a very close match to the Howard Johnson's color scheme. My wife even called it "the Ho-Jo bike".
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Old 10-28-20 | 05:18 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by John Valuk
I wasn't aware of the SKS Longboards, but seeing a couple of pictures here was enough to convince me to try them.

I'm positively impressed by the design and construction, and I think they look pretty good, too. I provided my own M6 screws to take advantage of a couple of available braze-ons for mounting the rear fender.

I haven't ridden in the wet with them yet, but the Longboards provide more coverage (especially the front fender) than the ones I had been using.
don’t use them if it’s under 30F outside. They become brittle, even when new.

also, they kinda suck if you ever ride over 15mph. Because their mounting brackets are inside the fenders, they interrupt the water’s movement and drip onto your feet. If you’re not handy with a drill and surface rivets, spend the money on some VO/Honjo fenders.

Last edited by hsuBM; 10-28-20 at 05:43 PM.
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Old 10-28-20 | 05:35 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I disagree.

This is so close to qualifying as “hot”, it bugging me that it’s not quite there. Please obtain and mount a proper matching purple saddle, powder coated purple King cages, and silver hubs and cranks, fill out your HFB-364 form and re-submit for evaluation as soon as possible for consideration. Thank you in advance.

An 1/8-1/4” matching purple stripe down the fenders would not be tacky at all, especially if cocked off to the side rather than perfectly centered.

(joking of course. It definitely looks better than any of mine!)

Last edited by hsuBM; 10-28-20 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 10-28-20 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hsuBM
This is so close to qualifying as “hot”, it bugging me that it’s not quite there. Please obtain and mount a proper matching purple saddle, powder coated purple King cages, and silver hubs and cranks, fill out your HFB-364 form and re-submit for evaluation as soon as possible for consideration. Thank you in advance.

An 1/8-1/4” matching purple stripe down the fenders would not be tacky at all, especially if cocked off to the side rather than perfectly centered.

(joking of course. It definitely looks better than any of mine!)
Actually, Silca was selling some purple water bottle cages a while back, but they were ti and very expensive...I would've loved a pair for another of my bikes, but can't justify it when a pair of steel King cages work so well and cost so little.
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Old 10-28-20 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by frogman
Very nice indeed !

Why is there a digital clock on the floor under the bike ?
I store my off-season bike in my room. The alarm clock is across the room so I actually have to get up when it alerts.
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