Hello
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2025
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Hello
Hello, I'm trying to repair an antique Roadmaster, I recall buying it at KMart 38 years ago. The crankset bearings have mostly fallen off. I found one
and ordered bearings from ebay but they're smaller than the one . The photo shows the solitary bearing and two from ebay.
and ordered bearings from ebay but they're smaller than the one . The photo shows the solitary bearing and two from ebay.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: May 2021
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First, there is no photo; with less than 10 posts you can't include photos on posts. The way around this is to create a photo album from your profile page, make a post saying that you did this, and then someone can retrieve & post it for you. Second, crankset bearings don't fall off, you need a photo to show what you are referring to (did the balls fall out of the cages maybe?). Third, ball bearings are usually a common size. Hopefully, you still have an old one that you can measure with a hole gauge or a good scale. (FWIW, the most likely size of those is 5/16".)
John
John
#4
Facts just confuse people




Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 19,285
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From: Mississippi
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
There were several different types of bicycles that were sold under the Roadmaster name. Your bicycle probably has a Ashtabula crank or what's commonly called a one piece crank. Where the left and right crankarms and spindle are the same piece of metal..
This link should help you.... https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
If it is a crankset that has crank arms that are removable from the spindle, then knowing a little more about the bike might help.
When asking for mechanical help, the best place for your thread will be the Bicycle Mechanics sub-forum.
Here is the picture you tried to post.

https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/38070490
They upload to your album. Even though you can't post them in a thread until you have at least 10 posts or replies of your own here on BF.
A picture of your bike. Particularly the crankset and bottom bracket will be more helpful.
Welcome to BF.
This link should help you.... https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
If it is a crankset that has crank arms that are removable from the spindle, then knowing a little more about the bike might help.
When asking for mechanical help, the best place for your thread will be the Bicycle Mechanics sub-forum.
Here is the picture you tried to post.

https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/38070490
They upload to your album. Even though you can't post them in a thread until you have at least 10 posts or replies of your own here on BF.
A picture of your bike. Particularly the crankset and bottom bracket will be more helpful.
Welcome to BF.
#5
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,285
Likes: 1,160
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
Establish the size of the bearing that came off the bike and order that size. There are a few ways to measure and each is quite simple.
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#8
pic assist:


For these one piece cranks, you'd be better off buying the whole bearing with retainers. Read here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
See if you have 24tpi or 28tpi threading, and buy the corresponding bearings . For example here is a set for 28tpi:
www.ebay.com/itm/185657317335


For these one piece cranks, you'd be better off buying the whole bearing with retainers. Read here:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/opc.html
See if you have 24tpi or 28tpi threading, and buy the corresponding bearings . For example here is a set for 28tpi:
www.ebay.com/itm/185657317335
Last edited by icemilkcoffee; 08-25-25 at 10:17 AM.
#9
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
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From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
I would just let the bike go. A K-Mart bike from 35 years ago isn't going to have improved over that time and those bearings are probably going to be worth more than the bike new. If you want to pump money towards it it is in the end your money but I would just move on. If you want a good project bike there are plenty of decent quality used bikes that could use some love or just get a new bike and you will be much happier with quality shifting and braking.
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2012
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I would just let the bike go. A K-Mart bike from 35 years ago isn't going to have improved over that time and those bearings are probably going to be worth more than the bike new. If you want to pump money towards it it is in the end your money but I would just move on. If you want a good project bike there are plenty of decent quality used bikes that could use some love or just get a new bike and you will be much happier with quality shifting and braking.
#12
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Joined: Aug 2025
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"...A K-Mart bike from 35 years ago isn't going to have improved over that time and those bearings are probably going to be worth more than the bike new..."
I bought six 5/16" bearings for $4.15 at Ace Hardware. I needed nine bearings to fill the holder. So with the ones I found in the dirt floor I have what I need to put the bike back together. And some left-over bearings if needed in future.
I bought six 5/16" bearings for $4.15 at Ace Hardware. I needed nine bearings to fill the holder. So with the ones I found in the dirt floor I have what I need to put the bike back together. And some left-over bearings if needed in future.
#13
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,225
Likes: 6,611
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
"...A K-Mart bike from 35 years ago isn't going to have improved over that time and those bearings are probably going to be worth more than the bike new..."
I bought six 5/16" bearings for $4.15 at Ace Hardware. I needed nine bearings to fill the holder. So with the ones I found in the dirt floor I have what I need to put the bike back together. And some left-over bearings if needed in future.
I bought six 5/16" bearings for $4.15 at Ace Hardware. I needed nine bearings to fill the holder. So with the ones I found in the dirt floor I have what I need to put the bike back together. And some left-over bearings if needed in future.
#14
SE Wis

Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,546
Likes: 4,324
From: Milwaukee, WI
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
I would just let the bike go. A K-Mart bike from 35 years ago isn't going to have improved over that time and those bearings are probably going to be worth more than the bike new. If you want to pump money towards it it is in the end your money but I would just move on. If you want a good project bike there are plenty of decent quality used bikes that could use some love or just get a new bike and you will be much happier with quality shifting and braking.
#15
Otto
#16
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From: "Driftless" WI
Bikes: 1972 Motobecane Grand Record, 2023 Specialized Tarmac SL7,'26 Spesh Diverge, '22 Kona Dew+
#17
I AM AI
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,285
Likes: 1,160
From: Tucson, AZ
Bikes: 2008 S-Works Roubaix SL, 1979 Raleigh Comp GS, 1978 Schwinn Volare
That would have been DIY motor related, I believe?
__________________
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#18
Clark W. Griswold




Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 18,225
Likes: 6,611
From: ,location, location
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
I didn't stop him, I cautioned against putting money towards it but I didn't physically stop them. If they want to dump money into a pit and burn said money that is their money to do so with. I would just suggest saving that money and using it for a good project.
#20
Senior Member




Joined: Jul 2015
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From: NW Oregon
Bikes: 1982 Trek 930R Custom, '91 Diamondback Ascent w/ XT, XTR updates, Fuji Team Pro CF road flyer, Specialized Sirrus Gravel Convert, '09 Comencal Meta 5.5 XC, '02 Marin MBX500, '84 Gitane Criterium bike
i'd think you would want a better bike with double walled rims and far better brakes to be the platform of your engine install...
typically....
Motor = Electric
Engine = Internal Combustion power
electric motors can produce maximum torque from zero rpm... that will quickly trash the rear wheel..
a weak clutch on an I.C.E. will be more gentle on the wheel pictured, but will still wreak havoc on the old steel rim and spokes.
i've actually seen examples of those old stamped steel brakes that Bent Badly when they were over-used...
you have been warned.
all that said... i love the deep blue color, and i'd probably upgrade the seat, wheels and brakes, then ride it with a
Last edited by maddog34; 08-29-25 at 10:17 PM.
#21
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 60
Likes: 14
I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
[img alt="I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_0208_6a74980abab50ceb24beb310c29890361e00e324.jpg[/img]
I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
[img alt="I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_0208_6a74980abab50ceb24beb310c29890361e00e324.jpg[/img]
I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
#22
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2025
Posts: 60
Likes: 14
[img alt="I got the bearings greased and in. Theres no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_0208_6a74980abab50ceb24beb310c29890361e00e324.jpg[/img]
I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_0208_6a74980abab50ceb24beb310c29890361e00e324.jpg[/img]
I got the bearings greased and in. There's no dust seal? Should the bearings be finger-tight or should I use a hammer and chisel to tamp them in more?
Last edited by kevino; 08-30-25 at 03:02 PM.








