This one

Used in conjunction with the OnGuard Pitbull Mini 5006.

Actually, the editors of "Cycling Plus" have been frustrated at least twice by "an uncrackable safe". All of their methods, including power tools, failed against a "high end" Abus Granit padlock and against the best Kryptonite chains.

CP did NOT test atomic weapons, or tools that would have required a portable welding shop...because crooks don't use those methods. Cycling Plus, the ART Foundation, and Soldsecure test locks against the methods the street crooks actually use on a regular basis.

It would be wonderful if folks could "just select a safe location" and "avoid locking their bike in public after dark". But, when you ride (and park) every day and most nights in crime infested inner-city neighborhoods, it DOES matter which lock you buy and how you attach the lock. A bad location is unavoidable.

All the "theories" about how bikes are stolen are meaningless when compared with real life experience. And, decades of locking up high quality bikes day and night in VERY tough neighborhoods without ever having a bike stolen has proven the value of correctly using top quality locks.

Just out of interest, how many times has someone attempted to steal your bike?

Nonsense; the right way (i.e. most secure) way to lock a bike isn't a matter of opinion or personal taste. There are locks and means of using them that will lock your bike very securely, making a thief's work take some serious time and effort. Then there are locks and techniques for using them that enable a thief to make off with your bike in less than a minute.

Personal taste comes into lock solution and locking strategy to the extent that, for example, I don't want my bike to be stolen, but you don't really care that much if yours is. Aside from that kind of opinion, there is indeed a "right way." Because I don't want my bike to be stolen, I will lock it up correctly. If you don't really care... well, your call. But it's pretty easy to tell the difference between a bicycle that is securely locked and one that isn't.

That's smaller in diameter than the one I posted! It's even easier to cut than the Rapper!

It's good you have a real lock as well

The very fact that you had to caveat "the right way" implies that the binary usage of correct/incorrect or right/wrong is inappropriate to the situation. To then enter pluralism into the argument is rather self-defeating as you have practically stated that there are correct ways to lock a bike.

The very simple fact is that there are a variety, regardless of size of variety, of ways in which you can lock a bike which offer absolutly no compromise in security. For instance I could use five of Kryptonite's most effective locks to attach my bike to a Sheffield Stand. That wouldn't render my locking method incorrect simply because it doesn't have the magic approval of You, Sheldon Brown and ABH (evidently the venerable trinity of bike locking). Or I could lock a bike with a piece of string and an entire squadron of the Swiss Guard armed to the teeth and ordered to shoot bike theives on sight. Either fashion offers no compromise on security and now we're up to at least three ways. Would you like me to continue?

Last month my prized single speed commuter was stolen. It was locked up with a Trimax Max 40 mini U-lock (and a cable) that I had just gotten online (trimaxlocks.com). It was my second time using it. The thing is, it was a cylinder type barrel-key lock and at the time I didn't know those were easily pickable with a Bic pen. What do I do? The retailer or the manufacturer needs to take responsibility for this.

I've been hounding the retailer, but they won't budge and they continue to sell the lock. In fact, I ordered another and it's right here, easily opening and closing with a Bic pen. I've been calling Trimax and got two interesting answers. First, they said that no one in their product dept has ever been able to open it without a key (and they told the same thing to the retailer when I prompted the retailer to call the manufacturer). A month later (yesterday), they said that the guy who said that has been fired and that they discontinued the lock 1.5 years ago and I shouldn't have been able to get my hands on one.

Hmmmm...

So, I've written the owner of Trimax about this and the retailer again. Someone needs to give me $800 for a new bike! What do you all recommend? Are all locks like these off the market? Where do I turn to continue my pursuit. When I'm right, I don't let go of an issue. So, I'm willing to take this thing pretty far (although I'd like to avoid lawyers). Your suggestions are appreciated.

Note the date on the last post.

So, I'm ignorant of the posting protocol. But I figured this was the right thread regardless of it's age. I posted the same text under advocacy and safety, but then I found all of the bike lock stuff here. So, rather than create my own thread, I figured why not continue this one.

Give it a few days, and if you don't get any decent responses, start a new thread.

I have never heard of any lcok maker actually handing out a guarantee check....they usually have such out there rules for it that it's highly improbable to meet all the criteria.

That being said, just get a flat key style lock like the OnGuard or Kryptonite if you are worried about the bic trick. Just be sure to get very familiar with the way those flat key locks work...it's easy to break a key off in it if you get impatient.

Yeah, people here don't like bumping old threads. I got hell for it when I was new here for the week and a half period I kept bumping stuff that were years old, just because I didn't check the date.

The test results for bike locks are available at soldsecure.com.

Also, the April issue of "Cycling Plus" usually has their editors' latest test results for bike locks. I have not seen the 2006 April issue...it will reach Houston around May 1st.

The results of the "Cycling Plus" and Soldsecure.com tests are consistent year after year. Cable locks are NOT locks...they are a sign saying "Get your free bike right here". The top u-locks from Abus, Kryptonite, and OnGuard always do well in tests against the methods crooks on the street are actually using.

True, but then you also get the whiners complaining that you should have done a search before creating a new thread...so you are damned if you do and damned if you don't. So if your question isn't answered in the old thread, what options do you have?

Its all good.

Cheers,

Brian

I'd keep hounding Trimax in a non-agressive way. You might actually find someone who is willing to help you.

I use a Kryptonite U-Lock which was given to me many years ago. While I don't keep my bike in one place all the time, the use of the lock has prevented someone who just wanted to take it and ride off.
No one here goes looking for bikes with mechanical tools, hacksaws, or blow torches, all of which are tools to cut through the lock. But I don't kid myself, either. If a theif wants a bike, he or she will get it.

So: How good is a Kryptonite U-Lock?

If I'm in a paranoid mood, I've been known to U lock my frame and then with three separate cable locks, I lock my seat, lock my front wheel, and lock my rear wheel. I'll post a photo next time.

As long as I have used a lock the bike was not stolen. Computers stolen, water bottles stolen, and tires slashed but the bike was still there.

the best bike lock in the world will only take a few seconds to pick the lock by an expert; and the best lock in the world can be physically defeated by in seconds with the right tools...problem is with all of this is does the thief have the ability to pick or the tools to break the lock.

Is this the Trimax 40 U-lock that you used?

https://www.sierratradingpost.com/p/3...le-U-Lock.html

i use either a 16 year old Tioga u-lock or a Kryptonite Kryptogrip (4 mm cable). haven't had a bike stolen yet.

that said, i don't lock my bikes up much. i'm usually with them; if they are getting locked up, it's either because i'm just running into a store or restaraunt or because i'm leaving it in the car. but if it's being left in the car, it gets locked to the interior of the car and then the car is closed and locked.

it really is all about location. and i did live in Houston for three years in the early '90s.

That's the lock I bought. I wasn't going to publicize the name of the retailer, but why not. In fact, I bought it twice. The first time, I believe that some snot-nosed college student stole my bike with a Bic pen just for kicks (and because it had a King headset, SS conv, Mavic rims, carbon riser bar, etc). The second time I bought it just to prove to myself, the retailer, and the manufacturer that it could easily be openned with a Bic. Well, I've got it right here and it's a piece of cake. The retailer, however, is just replying with form letter emails and the manufacturer is not responsive at all (thus far).

Thoughts?

Jasonguard, not to be rude, but why do you think you're right? I asked you about this the last time you posted about your stolen bike, and you disappeared. So let's go over the facts again. Your bike was stolen,. It was locked with a U-Lock. Questions:

1) How do you know it was picked wiith a bic pen?

2) How do you know it wasn't broken with a car jack?

3) You also locked with a cable. How do you know the cable wasn't cut?

4) Please describe your locking method used when the bike was stolen (The last time I asked this, you disappeared).

Although I don't believe that you've demonstrated that the lock was picked with a bic pen, I do believe that you've demonstrated that the lock is easily pciked with a bic pen. Do you see the difference?

Based on the fact that the lock doesn't do the job it's intended to do (i.e., there's an implied warranty of merchantability that you should consult with an attorney about), the lock should not be on the market. Now possibly, that might result in a settlement offer, although it's really unlikely that the company will settle with you unless it looks like you have a chance of winning the lawsuit you've filed (meaning you're unlikely to get a dime from them unless you file a lawsuit, and the settlement may be the cheapest way for them to get you to shut up and go away).

A friend of mine graduated law school last year and got a new bike as a grad present. The first day she rode to school for bar study, the bike was stolen. Here's how: It was u-locked to the bike rack, but the part it was locked to was a metal hoop bolted to two long bars containing lots of similar metal hoops, all bolted to the two long bars.

The thief unbolted two bolts and her bike was gone. Probably took a minute or so with a socket wrench.

Street signs bolted to the sidewalk are also easily unbolted.

I've also heard of thieves removing bolts from racks bolted to the sidewalk, and when someone locks up, the thief just lifts the rack and takes the bike.

Bottom line is you need to be aware of the structure of whatever it is you're locking to. If it can be unbolted, your bike can be removed with a socket wrench. If it's already been unbolted, it's a setup.

Blue Order,
Sorry I disappeared on you. I appreciate your input and your questions. You seem to have summed up why I think I'm right. The lock should not be sold. It should not be on the market. I had no idea when I first purchased and used it that this model of lock was widely known to be faulty.

How did I lock up my bike?
I put my bike over the top of a stationary bike rack with the front wheel resting between the slats. I put the cable through both wheels, the frame, and the bars of the bike rack. Then I locked the ends together with the Trimax Max 40 mini U-lock. After 2 hours and 40 minutes of class, the bike rack was bare. No bike. No marks on the rack. No pieces of metal fibers on the ground from a the cable being cut. When the cops came, they looked at my key and said that even school kids know how to use a Bic to open these things.

My best possible scenario is a settlement the way you describe. But first I have to pestor my lawyer friend and I'm hoping for a way around that. An educated consumer should be able to point out where a retailer and a manufacturer have made mistakes and expect to see some movement. First, Sierra Trading Post should stop selling the lock. Second, if either of them will agree that they shouldn't have sold me the lock, then they can cut me a check and I'll shut up.

I figured that this would be of interest to Bikeforums members, not so I can get some money to replace my old bike, but to ensure that bike owners have some recourse with the companies who profit from them. One senior member, Nubie, asked if it was Sierra Trading Post that sold me the lock. I'm interested if that gives anyone some idea for a creative way forward. STP claims to be a business that is driven by the teachings of Jesus Christ. Ironic considering their stonewalling and less than compassionate response to the situation.

Looking forward to more discussion on this.