Lets Talk Handlebars-
#1
Thread Starter
Pants are for suckaz
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
Lets Talk Handlebars-
As some of you know, a friendly neighborhood craigslister gave me a bike pictured below:

I love it, i'm just starting to use the downtube shifters but it rides nice and is large enough for my 6'2" body.
i liek everythign except the handlebars. they are too low and narrow for me to be comfortable. i know thats how road bikers are supposed to be but i do not like it. I am wonderign what my options are as far as puttign new bars on it that might make my hands be a little higher and a little further apart.
I would also like to re-do the brakes as those old center pulls feel like i'm riding through oatmeal to slow down, i want some serious stoppage when i hit the brakes.
I would like sugestions on what kind of handlebarsi could use to get my body position up and my hands spread a bit wider. i know any mountain bike bar would work but are there any other options that are hybrids between a road bike handlebar
and a mountain bike handlebar
?
Handlebars!-MustacheHandlebarSanta_M.jpg)
Thanks for any/all input.

I love it, i'm just starting to use the downtube shifters but it rides nice and is large enough for my 6'2" body.
i liek everythign except the handlebars. they are too low and narrow for me to be comfortable. i know thats how road bikers are supposed to be but i do not like it. I am wonderign what my options are as far as puttign new bars on it that might make my hands be a little higher and a little further apart.
I would also like to re-do the brakes as those old center pulls feel like i'm riding through oatmeal to slow down, i want some serious stoppage when i hit the brakes.
I would like sugestions on what kind of handlebarsi could use to get my body position up and my hands spread a bit wider. i know any mountain bike bar would work but are there any other options that are hybrids between a road bike handlebar
and a mountain bike handlebar
?Handlebars!
-MustacheHandlebarSanta_M.jpg)
Thanks for any/all input.
#2
Thread Starter
Pants are for suckaz
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
i found this: 
Any other bars similar to this? pro's/con's of this type of bar?
if you need me, i'll be scouring ebay.

Any other bars similar to this? pro's/con's of this type of bar?
if you need me, i'll be scouring ebay.
Last edited by HandsomeRyan; 03-10-07 at 02:38 PM.
#3
Handlebar height: I think you'll be better off changing the stem instead of the handlebars regarding the height issue. Any 1" quill stem should work (as long as the clamp diameter matches the bars, your current bars should be 25.4mm clamp size), look on ebay for a tall one that also has the forward extension you need. Old SR branded stems are very common on ebay, they're nice looking and would match the bike well, and they usually sell for cheap, some in near NOS condition. If you want a REALLY tall quill stem, go for a Nitto Technomic, available at Harris Cyclery (Sheldon Brown) in a variety of forward extension lengths, and available in both 25.4mm and 26.0mm clamp diameter.
Wider handlebars: Again, ebay might be your best bet. Something like the old Sakae Road Champion bars are very common, would go with the bike well, and sell for cheap. You should be able to find them in a variety of widths. For a new bar, I like Nittos (again, available at Harris Cyclery), they've got them in a variety of widths and I believe some models come in 25.4 and some in 26.0 clamp size.
Brakes: I've got centerpull road brakes on a couple of old bikes, and they're very strong. A couple of things you can do to improve things is to take them apart, clean them up, and lube the pivots with pure silicon spray lube, available at auto parts stores. The bushings in the pivots on this type of brake are often plastic, and they seem to like the pure silicon lube. I would also recommend some Kool Stop salmon brake pads (the best pads currently made, in my opinion), the ones I use on my centerpulls are the cartridge style shoes intended for v-brakes, they're super easy to set up, adjust, etc., because of the spherical washers that come with them. And probably most importantly, change out the brake levers to some aero style levers (Cane Creek SCR-5 are really good, and not too expensive). The difference between aero levers and non-aero levers isn't just looks, the aero levers will actually give more leverage, and therefore better braking performance (some will disagree, but it's a fact that there's a difference in leverage because of the difference in design). Also, the aero levers will have better ergonomics when braking from the hoods, and since it sounds like you'd rather have your hands higher (and out of the drops), that would be an advantage. I'm the same way, I brake from the hoods a lot-
Wider handlebars: Again, ebay might be your best bet. Something like the old Sakae Road Champion bars are very common, would go with the bike well, and sell for cheap. You should be able to find them in a variety of widths. For a new bar, I like Nittos (again, available at Harris Cyclery), they've got them in a variety of widths and I believe some models come in 25.4 and some in 26.0 clamp size.
Brakes: I've got centerpull road brakes on a couple of old bikes, and they're very strong. A couple of things you can do to improve things is to take them apart, clean them up, and lube the pivots with pure silicon spray lube, available at auto parts stores. The bushings in the pivots on this type of brake are often plastic, and they seem to like the pure silicon lube. I would also recommend some Kool Stop salmon brake pads (the best pads currently made, in my opinion), the ones I use on my centerpulls are the cartridge style shoes intended for v-brakes, they're super easy to set up, adjust, etc., because of the spherical washers that come with them. And probably most importantly, change out the brake levers to some aero style levers (Cane Creek SCR-5 are really good, and not too expensive). The difference between aero levers and non-aero levers isn't just looks, the aero levers will actually give more leverage, and therefore better braking performance (some will disagree, but it's a fact that there's a difference in leverage because of the difference in design). Also, the aero levers will have better ergonomics when braking from the hoods, and since it sounds like you'd rather have your hands higher (and out of the drops), that would be an advantage. I'm the same way, I brake from the hoods a lot-
Last edited by well biked; 03-10-07 at 04:03 PM.
#4
Gemutlichkeit
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,423
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I would see how high you can pull that stem. I bet you can get another two inches out of it til you reach the stop mark. Then, get some Nitto B115 bars or Noodles. These have a 5" drop. Yours I would think are around 6-1/2". That's alot. The Nitto's come in a variety of widths. My 115's are 45cm.
For the brakes I would just switch to KoolStops if you can get some that will fit. If those are alloy rims, you will notice a very much improved performance.
EDIT: oh yeah, I also agree about the Cane Creek levers if you want to spend a little more. I have them on my Trek520. They're very good.
For the brakes I would just switch to KoolStops if you can get some that will fit. If those are alloy rims, you will notice a very much improved performance.
EDIT: oh yeah, I also agree about the Cane Creek levers if you want to spend a little more. I have them on my Trek520. They're very good.
#5
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Originally Posted by jcm
I would see how high you can pull that stem. I bet you can get another two inches out of it til you reach the stop mark. Then, get some Nitto B115 bars or Noodles. These have a 5" drop. Yours I would think are around 6-1/2". That's alot. The Nitto's come in a variety of widths. My 115's are 45cm.
For the brakes I would just switch to KoolStops if you can get some that will fit. If those are alloy rims, you will notice a very much improved performance.
EDIT: oh yeah, I also agree about the Cane Creek levers if you want to spend a little more. I have them on my Trek520. They're very good.
For the brakes I would just switch to KoolStops if you can get some that will fit. If those are alloy rims, you will notice a very much improved performance.
EDIT: oh yeah, I also agree about the Cane Creek levers if you want to spend a little more. I have them on my Trek520. They're very good.
If you'd like a pair of Cane Creek brake levers, PM me. I have a pair that has less than 100 miles on the left one and no mileage at all on the right.
#6
Non-Custom Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
Bikes: 1975-1980 SR road bike
Sharp looking bike.
I noticed the seat is pointing up pretty significantly. I know most prefer it level, or just slightly north of level, but with your handlebars low, and that much upward tilt, I imagine that it is either crushing your boys, or forcing you to flex your back more than you are used to... it's a bit left-field but wonder if that is a contributing factor.
Of course, I think the bullhorns are snazzy.
I noticed the seat is pointing up pretty significantly. I know most prefer it level, or just slightly north of level, but with your handlebars low, and that much upward tilt, I imagine that it is either crushing your boys, or forcing you to flex your back more than you are used to... it's a bit left-field but wonder if that is a contributing factor.
Of course, I think the bullhorns are snazzy.
#7
On my bike I use a Nitto Technomic stem and a 45 cm wide Nitto Randonneur handle bar. If you get a new stem and bar, just make sure the clamp diameter of the stem matches the bar.
Also, I believe if you change the brake levers to aero type it is supposed to help braking. Nashbar has a cheap set, but I prefer Tektro levers.
One caution, if you raise the bars too much you will have a longer reach down to the shifters...
Also, I believe if you change the brake levers to aero type it is supposed to help braking. Nashbar has a cheap set, but I prefer Tektro levers.
One caution, if you raise the bars too much you will have a longer reach down to the shifters...
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People do not seem to realize that their opinion of the world is also a confession of character.
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#8
Immoderator
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,630
Likes: 5
From: POS Tennessee
Bikes: Gary Fisher Simple City 8, Litespeed Obed
I know Knoxville's got some serious hills, as does Chattanooga, and the moustache bar is great for climbing, and don't put you in too low a posture.I love them. Also, I would try changing out the old pads on those sidepulls before investing in a brand-new brake set. Sweet bike! (That dork disk is incredibly rad.)
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#9
Senior Member


Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11,754
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Like the others said, I'd go for raising the existing stem 2", maybe even 3". Replacing the brake-levers with aero types and new teflon-lined cable-housings will improve braking tremendously. The aero-levers have more mechanical-advantage and will yank on the brakes harder for the same lever-effort.
And lower the front of that saddle, looks painful...
And lower the front of that saddle, looks painful...
#10
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 5,366
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From: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Bikes: Still have a few left!
You need to decide which type of bar to use before you buy new brake levers. the straight bars shown take a different lever but if you go with a higher stem & your present bars or the moustach bars, you don't need to buy new levers.
The Nitto Technomic will get your bars up but you need to figure out how much stem extension you need before you buy the Technomic as that high a stem will require more extension just to keep the bars where they are, remember that as stem length is increased, you need more extension because of the angle.
Finally, if money is tight, you can find an SR stem that was used with the long SunTour stemshifters. They are long enough to get your bars up near saddle height & won't be very expensive. Let us know how things go. Don
The Nitto Technomic will get your bars up but you need to figure out how much stem extension you need before you buy the Technomic as that high a stem will require more extension just to keep the bars where they are, remember that as stem length is increased, you need more extension because of the angle.
Finally, if money is tight, you can find an SR stem that was used with the long SunTour stemshifters. They are long enough to get your bars up near saddle height & won't be very expensive. Let us know how things go. Don
#11
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Directly above the center of the earth
Bikes: Varies by day
Originally Posted by well biked
Handlebar height: I think you'll be better off changing the stem instead of the handlebars...
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#12
Thread Starter
Pants are for suckaz
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 1
From: Mt. Airy, MD
Bikes: Hardtail MTB, Fixed gear, and Commuter bike
THANKS ALL! I'm learning a lot here. I am currently winning a bid on a "Nitto Technomic" stem but unless i up my max bid i know i'll lose the auction before tis over. (its a 70mm i believe?) I'll ask here since i have a thread going- how do i adjust the height of my existing stem? (if no one here wants to go into it i'll go ask in the 'Mechanics' forum) and not only adjust it but how do i know how far i can pull it up safely? I'm going to see if i can find new brake pads today. also i will adjust the seat to a more level position.
Thanks for all the help.
-HandsomeRyan
Thanks for all the help.
-HandsomeRyan
#13
Senior Member


Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 30,225
Likes: 649
From: St Peters, Missouri
Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.
Originally Posted by HandsomeRyan
THANKS ALL! I'm learning a lot here. I am currently winning a bid on a "Nitto Technomic" stem but unless i up my max bid i know i'll lose the auction before tis over. (its a 70mm i believe?) I'll ask here since i have a thread going- how do i adjust the height of my existing stem? (if no one here wants to go into it i'll go ask in the 'Mechanics' forum) and not only adjust it but how do i know how far i can pull it up safely? I'm going to see if i can find new brake pads today. also i will adjust the seat to a more level position.
Thanks for all the help.
-HandsomeRyan
Thanks for all the help.
-HandsomeRyan
70mm is a really, short front-to-back stem extension. Not what I would recommend. For comparison, the one that you have now is probably 110mm.
#14
A Nitto Technomic stem (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...id=4304&type=T)
Nitto Randoneur bars (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=HB1023)
Cane Creek Levers (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=BR5046)
Throw in some nice cable (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=CA4338)
And bar tape (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...id=5289&type=T)
Your seat angle indicates a fit problem though. Do you find yourself sliding forward all the time?
Nitto Randoneur bars (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=HB1023)
Cane Creek Levers (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=BR5046)
Throw in some nice cable (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...ils&sku=CA4338)
And bar tape (https://aebike.com/page.cfm?PageID=30...id=5289&type=T)
Your seat angle indicates a fit problem though. Do you find yourself sliding forward all the time?
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This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.
This is Africa, 1943. War spits out its violence overhead and the sandy graveyard swallows it up. Her name is King Nine, B-25, medium bomber, Twelfth Air Force. On a hot, still morning she took off from Tunisia to bomb the southern tip of Italy. An errant piece of flak tore a hole in a wing tank and, like a wounded bird, this is where she landed, not to return on this day, or any other day.






